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+1 on cheap headers as long as they are 304 stainless-steel. Also, they weigh less than gutted headers.
-1 on the cheap headers , just did one for the neighbor . The main heat shield didn't even come close to fitting , the o2 sensor holes were way low , had to take the wiring harness loose to get to o2's to reach the plugs ins . The flange had about an 1/8" gap at each end so I had to belt sand it flat . The holes on the flange were too small so I had to drill them out . I did manage to get the lower brackets bolted up .
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
-1 on the cheap headers , just did one for the neighbor . The main heat shield didn't even come close to fitting , the o2 sensor holes were way low , had to take the wiring harness loose to get to o2's to reach the plugs ins . The flange had about an 1/8" gap at each end so I had to belt sand it flat . The holes on the flange were too small so I had to drill them out . I did manage to get the lower brackets bolted up .
That’s why I’m using an OEM gutted header. I know it all fits and I just have to clean up the mating surface(?)

plus I’ll have my old one intact should I ever need it
 

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That’s why I’m using an OEM gutted header. I know it all fits and I just have to clean up the mating surface(?)

plus I’ll have my old one intact should I ever need it
I agree on the oem , but I would have used the one coming off , you wont ever need the old one .... and saved over 200 bucks .
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I agree on the oem , but I would have used the one coming off , you wont ever need the old one .... and saved over 200 bucks .
Mainly it was because I was nervous the shop doing the work might not fit it properly. This one I know was as it’s been used and I spoke with the owner. I can always sell the old intact one to cover the $200 if need be
 

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I do have gutted manifold I don't need but sounds like you'll have yours back soon. Maybe I'll post it just in case.
 
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I do have gutted manifold I don't need but sounds like you'll have yours back soon. Maybe I'll post it just in case.
I’ll probably make myself mad for asking but how much would yours have been shipped to CO?
 

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I think I sold mine too cheap !!!

 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Incidentally - just on the off case the flex pipe welds come loose/are found broken during the install, do I have to replace the entire main cat and pipes w flex pipe? Or would the flex pipe be able to be re-welded? Just planning ahead for anything that could occur/could be found
 

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Any semi-competent exhaust shop can weld a flex pipe. She won't be pretty but she'll be functional.
 

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I’ll probably make myself mad for asking but how much would yours have been shipped to CO?
I'd look to pocket $100 after shipping.
I also have a Magnaflow midpipe that I'd let go for the same. It was cut and rewelded, so not perfect.



I was looking at the cost of exhaust parts when listing the magnaflow catback for sale, those new prices are absurd. Someone should reach out to one of these companies that makes k-swap headers and have them fab a midpipe/catback. I'm sure the prices would be more reasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Can these be sand blasted to clean off mating surfaces or does it need to be bead blasted? Concerned about a grain of sand getting wedges and not cleaned out…thoughts on cleaning?

found someone that does bead blasting and ceramic coating but not sure I’d want him doing it as he says he coats The inside and outside of the manifold (not sure how he would do that) + I don’t think I’d want a coating inside where it could chip/flake off and cause the exact issue I’m trying to solve

I think I just want the mating surfaces clean so it’s a good match.

thoughts?
 

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Wire wheel, don't go crazy & slap em back together with a quality fresh gaskets...job finished. If your gaskets came out in pieces then you need to make sure you get those all out, if not then get rid of the surface rust & send it....the surface rust will likely be back very shortly after reassembly
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Wire wheel, don't go crazy & slap em back together with a quality fresh gaskets...job finished. If your gaskets came out in pieces then you need to make sure you get those all out, if not then get rid of the surface rust & send it....the surface rust will likely be back very shortly after reassembly
Would this work for cleaning it off?
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Automotive design Motor vehicle Font
 

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My 2 cents is you’re creating a problem to solve. As FnF said the surface rust will return - as you’ll see for yourself when the shop takes your current manifold off, it’ll be in the same condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
My 2 cents is you’re creating a problem to solve. As FnF said the surface rust will return - as you’ll see for yourself when the shop takes your current manifold off, it’ll be in the same condition.
Thanks Sean. So you suggest not even wire brushing the mating surface on the manifold - just install it with a new gasket as is?
 

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Just brush it, don't try to polish it. Leave it grossly flat & "rust free"...aka just make sure rust isn't affecting the mating surface to the point that it isn't flat. Past that it's making a mountain of a mole hill is all we're saying. Any wire wheel will work, whether on a drill or handheld....less is more, with a power drill it only takes 2 or 3 mins total to do all mating surfaces (engine block, exhaust manifold x2, & midpipe). Watch a video, that should answer any questions. Don't forget to tape the exhaust ports if you remove rust from the block so nothing goes in the engine.

If you've decided to pay a shop why are you even trying to figure this out? Isn't that what you're paying them for?
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I’m asking so if they don’t do it I know to ask them to. I’ve read a few stories where shops made the problem worse and didn’t torque right or follow sound processes. One guy who was getting his cats gutted, the damn shop slices open the canister to remove the material then re-welded it back. And welded it incorrectly.

I plan to tell the shop these things I want done.
 

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Not for anything but it's illegal for shops to gut a catalytic converter...if it's someone you know doing it then they're doing you a favor. If it's a shop you walked into then IMO that already speaks volumes about the level of attention to detail to be expected.

That said, its not rocket science. The key to good customer service is simply nodding to the customer, closing the door & then doing what you were gonna do anyway; tbh that applies from carpentry to mechanical work, to healthcare....they will always think you did a better job that way than if you try to explain why they are wrong
 
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