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Any interest in Wilwood bracket on stock rotor

16K views 217 replies 21 participants last post by  BottledFedMR2 
#1 · (Edited)
This would be brackets to mount a Wilwood powerlite caliper onto the stock rotor.

I'm just finishing up the first test bracket and am about to order more materials to make the finished pieces. If anyone is interested in these, I could probably make a few more sets.

These would save about 8lbs of unsprung weight for the pair
 

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#2 ·
Certainly interested.... I have a set of 3 spoke SA3Rs on the boat from Japan so need some quality brakes behind them. I was going to go for the full wilwood setup but this may work out cheaper!

What is the part number of the brakes these brackets mate to?

Will you be doing rears too?

Will you ship to UK?
 
#4 ·
You mean this lets you use a stock caliper with a Wilwood rotor? Or... a Wilwood caliper with a stock rotor? Not sure how to read what you wrote, because it implies mounting a rotor on a rotor which does not make a whole

Thanks. Frank.

Sorry. Edited the post. It would be a powerlite caliper.
The first bracket was made out of 6061 t6. On the fence whether or not to go with the 6061 or 7075.
Threaded holes would be timeserts to prevent damaging threads and for added strength.
 
#9 ·
What is the estimated price for the piece? Im interested.

01' MR2 K20 swap, crazy mods to come
I havent really done any of that figuring yet. Just seeing if there is interest.
I figure it would be around $40 in materials for 6061 (about $60 or $70 for 7075) and shipping + whatever my labor is worth.

I looked into having pieces cnc'd in the past but without large orders the pricing is too high. These would be done on a manual mill.
 
#11 · (Edited)
As is probably evident from my participation in the other thread, yes I am interested :)

I vote 6061. The stronger 2XXX and 7XXX series alloys lose a lot of strength with higher temperature and do not have improved fatigue resistance over 6061. Aluminum brake calipers themselves have aluminum lug mounts that aren't any thicker, and they do fine despite running at very high temperatures where the yield strength is considerably lower.



AFAIK brake calipers can hit 200C on supercars with carbon ceramic brakes, and they still make them out of aluminum, at which point the aluminum is not a whole lot stronger than say nylon.
 
#16 ·
These calipers have been used extensively on miatas on the street and track for awhile without any problems. Also i think some Ultima gtr guys run these on the rears.
Once i get the correct timeserts I am going to be doing some strength testing on them to make sure they are safe.
Brake bias should be almost identical to stock as the piston area of these is virtually the same.
 
#19 · (Edited)
i would be very interested in this setup. upgraded brakes that stay under 15s? you bet your butt.

also, putting my engineer hat on, id make them from steel. yes, heavier, but steel has far better temp and fatigue life.
 
#20 ·
also, putting my engineer hat on, id make them from steel. yes, heavier, but steel has far better temp and fatigue life.
I've seen these type of brackets made from both aluminum and steel for other cars. Something thats not been mentioned other than temperature is cross sectional dimensions that may affect strength. From your pic, some spots look mighty thin. Add heat and it might fold sooner than just the temp graph indicates.

I haven't been paying too much attention in the other thread but are these calipers newer/better versions than the ones that ebay shop uses for their wilwood upgrade kit for the spyder? If they are what are the benefits?

ps- I would be interested in a F&R set.
 
#37 ·
Sorry, maybe its the e compound. I get confused
Edit: it is the bp20 pads that are recommended for miatas.
Edit edit: https://www.flyinmiata.com/powerlite-brake-pads.html
I think the BP10 is a better fit for me. I like the fact that it has a colder initial bite but with smooth engagement. I also like the fact that it has none of the trade-offs you find in race pads being that it produces less dust, less noise and beds easy.

In the past I was against braking options for this car because they were all of the BBK variety without any thought to braking bias or unsprung weight. I'm happy that there is a simpler option that is justified.

What options are there for the rear in regards to the parking brake?
 
#44 ·
Thats great that there seems to be alot of interest in this.
I ordered the rest of the materials needed and should have them at the latest early next week.
I will post updates then.
It would be good to get a list going so i can get an idea of how many really want them.
 
#62 ·
I think a good solution to increase stiffness of the bracket is to use a slightly longer piece of aluminum that wraps around the lug. It would be exactly the same amount of machining, but leaves an aluminum "cap" around the ends to efficiently resist the twisting.

Basically, what Jimbo has made, except with some "caps" welded to the end, except not welded.
 
#63 ·
This was stolen from somewhere and i had saved it awhile back. Seems to explain the forces involved with a radial mount.

Imagine the car is not running. You apply the brake as hard as possible, so that the car won?t move forward.
Now, start the engine, put the car in gear, and try to launch the car, but keep the brake on.

The caliper and the caliper mount bolt(s) are getting some force, but which direction?
You think the caliper that is trying move along with the rotor is creating the force in the green arrow?s direction, but the caliper (that is trying to rotate around on the same axis as rotor / wheel, NOT trying to move on the straight line) is actually creating the force in the purple arrow?s direction. The caliper mount is, therefore, pushing back the caliper with exactly the same amount of force in the exactly the opposite direction. (Isaac Newton?s third law (action reaction law.)
Thus, caliper mount bolt(s) are getting tension load, not shearing load.
 

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