[Solennel]

Per the title!

I'm shopping around for an alternate tray for a lightweight batt - preferably horizontal fitment rather than the standard vertical.

Likewise looking for recommendations on battery relocation.

Edit; Apologies for not including it earlier (dumb). I should point out that this is to make some more room in the engine bay - not so much to redistribute or shed weight. Already have a smaller AGM in. All info is welcome, however!!

What's working out well for you? Any tray, or relocation setup you've tried that hasn't?

(if anyone's got a Corky's horizontal around for sale, PM me!)

 

[MerryFrankster]

I am using a lightweight Li ion battery Antigravity brand same size as a 12v lantern battery weighs about 3.5 lbs.

Relocated to the left side on the rear cross member. Stock cables reach easily just have to move the ground strap (battery (-) to frame) to a new location on the frame. Plenty to chose from.

Fabricated a simple tray that bolts down to existing threaded holes in the cross member. Battery is held down to tray with a cinch strap. For 3.5lbs, you don't need more than that for a hold-down.

Cons: This is not a great location heatwise because of proximity to exhaust. Suggest putting heat shield arount the battery.

 

[hardmode]

More on the DIY side, but a buddy helped me find a flat piece of plastic to put some wooden pieces underneath the battery so that it would provide weight savings, while still using the OEM brackets with the Odyssey battery I bought.

Here is the post in my build thread where I show how it looks afterward. Pretty sure others will chime in with good stuff as well.

 

[MR2-D2]

Looking for battery relocation to the Frunk pics WITH...

Thanks are you currently running one I’m just fair weather driving want to run ac and accessories that’s it My car is in storage for the winter, but my battery is a motorcycle sized Battery tender Li

www.spyderchat.com

You could always make your own like I did

 

[carlbecker]

A friend and I made a bracket of aluminum to fit the OEM place for the SST51913-FP Scorpion Stinger. It bolts to the same mount locations. I like to keep the battery very accessible just in case a jump is required.

 

[Petrus]

I fitted an 800 gram LiFe one in the original tray and used stock connectors for the reason mentioned by @carlbecker .

With a smaller lightweight the jump start option becomes more important

 

[sacklunch]

I just installed a Braille B2015 in the frunk using the aluminum Braille mount. Bolts easily to the spare tire tub and allows you to retain spare tire. See tutorial here Odyssey PC680 Lightweight Battery Install (And Relocating the Battery to the Front) – Driftopia.com

 

[Petrus]

Moving a battery costs serious cable weight and moving an 800 gram LiFe brings no weight transfer. Better delete the frump bucket and replace the spare/jack kit with a foam can.

 

[sacklunch]

Moving a battery costs serious cable weight and moving an 800 gram LiFe brings no weight transfer. Better delete the frump bucket and replace the spare/jack kit with a foam can.

I’ve heard that before, but come on, serious weight? 26 feet of cable is less than, what, 5 pounds? My reasons for moving are different than OPs I presume. I want more room for kswap intake setup and to reduce rear weight because of increase from kswap.

 

[FormInFunction]

Moving a battery costs serious cable weight and moving an 800 gram LiFe brings no weight transfer. Better delete the frump bucket and replace the spare/jack kit with a foam can.

You've got all the weight gone from the rear & put lower throughout the middle of the car. Only a small amount directly moved to the front but the weight transfer is still there.

Personally the rear subframe is just simpler if feasible with the rest of the engine/turbo/exhaust/cooling setup.

 

[Petrus]

I’ve heard that before, but come on, serious weight? 26 feet of cable is less than, what, 5 pounds? My reasons for moving are different than OPs I presume. I want more room for kswap intake setup and to reduce rear weight because of increase from kswap.

Yes, at least 5 lbs and for what? For moving an 800 gram battery from back to front? And then there is taking out the frump/spare/kit. How much is that?

Now, imo it is also a mentality, philosophy: If 5 pounds is of no importance to one, then it never ever is going to be lighter is it?!

You adding your goal of an engine swap is a game changer which totally invalidates the point about the 5 lbs. You want/need the space at the back. Fair enough but a different discussion. Same thing for a turbo set up or whatever. That is not about the weíght! Weight wise it makes totally no sense adding heavy cable to put a lighter battery up front.

And about the location of the battery. OEM it is very close to the centre of mas. Moving it to the frump is going to increase the MR2 as the distance from the c.o.m. increases. So that is adding several meters of heavy gauge copper wiring to place the battery further from the c.o.m.

Unless there are OTHER! requirements in play which change the game, weíght wise the optimum is simply fitting the lightest LiFe which starts the engine.

 

[Solennel]

Moving a battery costs serious cable weight and moving an 800 gram LiFe brings no weight transfer. Better delete the frump bucket and replace the spare/jack kit with a foam can.

Noted. Totally agree on removal of the spare, etc. I don't plan on moving the battery that far up, I don't think. Just considering getting it out of the engine bay proper.

I’ve heard that before, but come on, serious weight? 26 feet of cable is less than, what, 5 pounds? My reasons for moving are different than OPs I presume. I want more room for kswap intake setup and to reduce rear weight because of increase from kswap.

Similar reasons!

You've got all the weight gone from the rear & put lower throughout the middle of the car. Only a small amount directly moved to the front but the weight transfer is still there.

Personally the rear subframe is just simpler if feasible with the rest of the engine/turbo/exhaust/cooling setup.

Don't know I'll go the subframe route, however. Since I'm using an AGM, I imagine should be okay to have it moved (maybe) to the rear interior (if I don't want it in an "open/exposed," part of chassis) should I remove the softtop and all.. (will do homework first, though!).

Edit; I should note that my AGMs get kept on a tender, uninstalled - they don't get to stay in the car on most occasions.

 

[carlbecker]

The simplest and lightest solution is to remove a 27 pound lead acid with a 3 pound lithium battery in the same location. Remove the 24 pound spare and the front to rear percentage has barely changed and 48 pounds is lost. Remove some plastic, get some light wheels (my spyder lost 24 pounds), change the exhaust and you have another expensive 50 pounds lost. Add a light flywheel and Maf mod and the spyder is just that much better

 

[Solennel]

The simplest and lightest solution is to remove a 27 pound lead acid with a 3 pound lithium battery in the same location. Remove the 24 pound spare and the front to rear percentage has barely changed and 48 pounds is lost. Remove some plastic, get some light wheels (my spyder lost 24 pounds), change the exhaust and you have another expensive 50 pounds lost. Add a light flywheel and Maf mod and the spyder is just that much better

Of these, what isn't done (speaking of the 2zz-T car);

1. spare removal (will have to see what it's like without! have done so with the NA cars already)
2. flywheel - actually have a lighter weight one waiting, but not especially in a hurry to swap in - will do so when taking a look @ the c60. Will also throw on the extra ounces of DDPR flywheel shield/cover while there.
3. remove some plastic - yes, probably. Likely the soft top and all.
4. MAf mod - ignore me

I should have prefaced my first post with a mention that I'm not looking distribute or lose more weight so much as I'm trying to make room in the engine bay - sorry! Gonna amend that now!

 

[Petrus]

The simplest and lightest solution is to remove a 27 pound lead acid with a 3 pound lithium battery in the same location. Remove the 24 pound spare and the front to rear percentage has barely changed and 48 pounds is lost. Remove some plastic, get some light wheels (my spyder lost 24 pounds), change the exhaust and you have another expensive 50 pounds lost. Add a light flywheel and Maf mod and the spyder is just that much better

Hear ye, hear ye.
Apart from deleting the heavy stuff mentioned, lighter wheels are (or should) be the priority.

Mine lost some 300 pounds and that is including some bracing added. MAF mod, exhaust, intake and lighter rotating engine mass make for a lovely lively car.
The concentration on reducing the MR2 has probably made it too twitchy for most but I lóve it and the silly big wing makes it go straight like an arrow at open road speeds.

No, don´t nééd a few grams less on the flywheel nor a few kilos less on the car but I would rather have a lightweight bonnet/rear lid/ plastic windscreen than a supercharger.
Ah, and hóping to fit a lighter alternator ´soon´.

p.s. had a look recently at what F1 cars weigh this year at the start of a race?*
Oh mán... I started racing in the seventies when adding lightness was the thing, racing dangerous and sex safe. W can not claim evolution can we?!

* 795 + 110 fuel = 905 kg.