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Discussion Starter #1
Me and my buddies are about to replace the clutch on my SMT. I was wondering if anyone has a PDF copy they can PM/Email me. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, never mind then.

Can anyone give me a walk through the whole procedure then?
 

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You might have to meet that employee at the busstation though....:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the replies guys and that walk through, I think me and my friends should be able to do this. Here's hoping the SMT doesn't end up throwing a fit when we swap clutches..
 

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its practicaly the same as a manual except do not disconnect the HPU hydraulic lines.Instead remove the 3-4 four bolts that holds it in place a remove it with the transmission.Need any help in the process let me know
 

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You definately don't want to do the BGB version, it takes an additional hour and some tools you more than likely don't have laying around the house. Hardest part I found is removing the drivers side axle, mine didn't want to come out no matter what position I put it in, took some "TLC" with a 10 lb maul to get it out after visually making sure the c clamp was in the right position. Using the cargo straps made dropping it much easier, along with pulling the header (I did my precats at the same time, made accessing the engine side stuff much better). If you don't have a snake adapter for your ratchet you'll probably need one to get the top bolt out, its rather inconveniently placed behind most of the evap hoses and gsu.
 

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Disconnecting the HPU hydraulic lines is pretty easy after the first time you do it. O'Reilly's sells a ford hydrauiic quick connect tool pretty cheap that fits. All you do is shove the white sleeve into the connecter and then pull apart.

BTW the SMT will more than likely throw a fit, make sure you back into to the spot you do the work on because there's a good chance of losing reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Disconnecting the HPU hydraulic lines is pretty easy after the first time you do it. O'Reilly's sells a ford hydrauiic quick connect tool pretty cheap that fits. All you do is shove the white sleeve into the connecter and then pull apart.

BTW the SMT will more than likely throw a fit, make sure you back into to the spot you do the work on because there's a good chance of losing reverse.
Well I just got done speaking with the friend whose going to help me out doing this and we can get access to a lift for the engine so that bit is sorted out. When the SMT throws a fit will I have to do just a friction point relearn or will a visit to Mr.T be in order to use the techstream software for a full relearn?
 

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Well I just got done speaking with the friend whose going to help me out doing this and we can get access to a lift for the engine so that bit is sorted out. When the SMT throws a fit will I have to do just a friction point relearn or will a visit to Mr.T be in order to use the techstream software for a full relearn?
More than likely will have to do a full relearn since you have to disconnect the position sensors. The straps are easier because you don't have to pull the hood off or worry about additional things being around the car because of the limited space to position yourself underneath. Be very careful dropping the tranny down because the input sensor is on the bottom and can be damaged if you put the weight of the tranny on it.
 

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You don't have to disconnect anything from the transmission(HPU,GSU,sensors.) If you disconnect any of those you WILL have more problem than what you should have.If you leave all sensors and HPU. You don't have to spend $160 at Mr. T for the SMT fluid.Leave those intact and all you will have to do is do the friction relearn on the clutch and avoided tech stream.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys. Ill leave those on there when we pull the tranny. Thanks again!
 
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