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I have a set of Piper Stge 2 that Im picking up today for a 2zz and was wondering if anyone has installed these on their own (be it aftermarket or factory) and how was the difficulty? Is it on the BGB? I love the page if anyone had it and could email it to me @ [email protected]
 

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MWR says < 2hrs on their site and more than likely they don't need to be re shimmed.
 

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Remember the key part in swapping cams is to remove the bolts slowly in the proper order. You can't just go down the line and remove bolts as you wish. These parts are under lots of tension and great care has to be taken in removing them. Good part is it's very straight forward and easy to do if you follow directions well. Look up the order from the BGB.
 

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I found this thread and although it was for liftbolts it shows how to remove the cams as well. As the OP in that thread had a broken "liftbolt".
SMAAY is the guy to go to for 2zz write ups. He does excellent work.

Also note that when re-installing the cams you must put the VVTI gear in lock before you set timing or the car will run like garbage and knock like mad.
You will also have to be 100% sure that the timing tensioner is completely released and full tension is back on the chain. I've seen a couple tensioners stick before as well and ruin motors. so just be sure its completely released.
Might as well change the lift bolts to the 2nd gen if you havent already.
 

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...............Make sure you recheck your shims, you'll probably be waiting for a while for new ones to come in.
I seriously doubt that the 2 hours quoted by MWR includes doing anything at all with the shims, and I'd hate to even contemplate undertaking that checking of shims (i.e., valve lash) and changing them if necessary with the engine installed in the car. Some over on NC.org have done cam replacement without doing any of that and seem to be satisfied.
 

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I seriously doubt that the 2 hours quoted by MWR includes doing anything at all with the shims, and I'd hate to even contemplate undertaking that checking of shims (i.e., valve lash) and changing them if necessary with the engine installed in the car. Some over on NC.org have done cam replacement without doing any of that and seem to be satisfied.
Can be done in the car fairly easily on a spyder if you know how to time the 2ZZ.

You should always check your valve lash after swapping cams. Just check it at the roller to cam interface using the factory specs though - if its good there then you are fine and thats way quicker than checking at the valve tips.
 
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