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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Uhoh...so there WAS an exhaust shield with a broken weld. Fixed that. There WAS a bad belt tensioner. Fixed that.

Still making the noise. Mechanic diagnoses it as a problem in the lower end of the engine. Before anyone asks, yes, I do actually trust this mechanic. He's a friend first, Toyota mechanic second.

So what are my options, and roughly what will they cost? I've been looking into a 2zz swap (seems logical right now). Looks like I'm looking at about $4k total, installed. Maybe $5k. Looks like MWR is a good place to begin for decent parts and a low-mileage used block. Looks like the easiest thing to do is to get the plug'n'play adapter, then use the stock 1zz wiring harness with the Celica ECU (it looks like this bypasses a lot of the weird wiring stuff that some of the write-ups mention). Looks like it's easier to just go with an aftermarket header rather than weld the stock one-but which aftermarket header?

I've done some searching around on the forums here, and there's lots of help for swaps. Can anyone give me a quick list of the 'Be sure you do THIS, and be sure you don't do THAT' sort of stuff to help my mechanic out during the swap? I'm thinking new water pump, oil pump, clutch (common sense stuff to keep maintenance at bay down the line). I'm having a little bit of trouble thinking out the exhaust stuff-seems like I'll NEED a header, but not sure how well that'll mate up to the stock MRS exhaust setup. Also, I'm a little confused on O2 sensor setups.

Or, if you think you have a better idea than a 2zz swap for me, feel free to chime in. I'm about 2 months from having the money for this, so there's some time for planning. My overall goal is dependability first, mild upgrades in power second. I don't need a monster, screamer MRS. I don't track, and generally just drive it for my own enjoyment on back country roads and the like.
 

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I don't know about the swap, but maybe you could put some bearings in the engine you have and extend it's life. Are we talking about a little ticking, or a full blown knock?
 

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If you really don't want to increase power, look for a 03+ 1zz for a relatively cheap solution. Don't forget you have to get this back on the road before the Razorback Run this Fall.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
re: full-blown knock...

Well, with my limited knowledge on the noises, I'm not sure I'm qualifed to say if it's small or large. It basically sounds like a stiff card in bike spokes as you go down the road, coming on loud at 2600-2800 RPM, then going away until you hit about 3500 RPM again and staying with you til redline (which I'm not doing almost at all, since I'm worried about seizing the thing up).

As to the swap options, I guess I figured that it seems silly to put in another 1zz engine, when for approximately $1-1.5k more I could put in a 2zz. I like the idea of a LITTLE more oomph, while keeping reliability overall. I'm not technically proficient enough to do either job by myself (and I lack a garage, lift, compressor, appropriate tools, etc.), so either way I'm into it for the shop labor to do the thing.

We'll have to see about that Razorback Run-just not sure I can get the thing going right by mid-Fall. But we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hmmm-possible new plan. Okay, so I don't care TOO much about massive power increases, and I need to do this whole job on a bit of a budget. My mechanic friend is willing to work on the side for me at 1/3 his shop's labor cost (score!). He thinks another option would be to pull the engine and just do a mild rebuild-fix the rod bearing that seems to be the problem, maybe some new rings while we're at it, put it back together and put it back in. :p

I'm thinking while we've got the whole damn thing apart, I go ahead and put in a new water pump, oil pump, clutch, and lightweight flywheel (okay, that one is for performance instead of maintenance). Also, still within budget and for performance reasons, get the head ported and polished and get a CHE header to eliminate the pre-cats. B)

Rough figure on this is approximately $3k, instead of the $5-6k for the 2zz swap. I get SOME power increase (I'm really not about monster power anyway), and a lot of longevity stuff for the car in the process. B)

Thoughts? :huh:
 

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I'd pull the pan first and check the rod bearings. If one of them is bad (but not too bad) it is an easy repair. Search. Cap had provided lots of info on this.

There is really no reason to buy a Che header unless you like the look. Once you have the stock manifold off, you've done 90% of the work of decatting. After that all you need is a hammer and screwdriver to knock them out.

There is no reason to replace rings unless it is using oil or has low compression. The general consensus (not necessarily fact) is that 1ZZs do not like to be rebuilt. If you buy into this theory, then a ring job won't buy you much time.

Then again what do I know. I've got 167k on mine and it runs like the day I got it 120k ago.
 

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I'd pull the pan first and check the rod bearings. If one of them is bad (but not too bad) it is an easy repair. Search. Cap had provided lots of info on this.

There is really no reason to buy a Che header unless you like the look. Once you have the stock manifold off, you've done 90% of the work of decatting. After that all you need is a hammer and screwdriver to knock them out.

There is no reason to replace rings unless it is using oil or has low compression. The general consensus (not necessarily fact) is that 1ZZs do not like to be rebuilt. If you buy into this theory, then a ring job won't buy you much time.

Then again what do I know. I've got 167k on mine and it runs like the day I got it 120k ago.
I concur, I would get my hands on a good used motor and be done with it.
Not much labor involved, way cheaper and more reliable. You don't need a better oil pump, that's just a waste of money.
 

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+1^. If your ring(s) are shot, don't waste the time/effort/money cracking the block open. Get an '03+, low mileage motor, swap it in, and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thank you guys for pointing me in the direction of a compression test and a check/replace of the rod bearings. I'm going to look into this before going the route of a full engine replacement. It DOES look like Cap's write up will be very helpful. I'll be ECSTATIC if I don't have to go for a full replacement of any kind.:wub:
 
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