[butch_mr2]

I just bought SS brake line for both front and rear. Is it better to replace, drain, then bleed each ? Or, replace all the lines, drain all of them at the same time, and then start bleeding? Or, does it make any difference?

 

[plebian]

You can only bleed one at a time, unless you have 4 friends to help, so it doesn't really matter.

 

[pelinors714]

i just got new lines recently...and also new porterfield brake pads.

i just took out the old lines, put in the SS lines on all , filled up the brake fluid reservoir and just bled them like normal till no bubbles showed up in the tube. brakes feel a lot better now with new pads and lines.

 

[Ricky22]

Which ss brake lines are u guys using? Im thinking of getting goodridge lines.

 

[T-bone]

000000000

 

[T-bone]

000000000

 

[Sammy Sandbag]

An easy way to keep the master cylinder from bleeding dry is to partially push in the pedal, just enough so the piston moves forward, blocking the ports. You can use a piece of wood against the seat to keep it set. It's far easier to bleed the system afterwards if you don't let it completely drain. You can still flush the system, but large air pockets are biatch and may require vacuum to completely clear (ask me how I know.)

 

[pelinors714]

Which ss brake lines are u guys using? Im thinking of getting goodridge lines.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2000-2005-T...es&hash=item19bd39f32d&vxp=mtr#ht_2255wt_1396

im using these. so far so good

 

[butch_mr2]

I just did mine. did you get speed bleeders? They make it far easier.

I started with passenger rear. changed the line, bled the line and sealed.

moved to divers rear, passenger front and then drivers front.

I then rebled using the same sequences to push through more fluid.

Front and rear lines are different carefully match up which is which using the shape of the OEM lines

Washers gaskets make sure you use them in the right places

get speed bleeders if you can wait a few days they are 7 bucks a piece and make a huge difference for pumping them pedal the valve self closes when you take you foot on the pedal so you can do it by your self if needed. will not let air in

DO NOT LET THE MASTER RUN DRY

DO NOT LET THE MASTER RUN DRY

DO NOT LET THE MASTE RUN DRY

be careful with the fittings on the OEM lines. they are soft (brass I think ) and are super easy to strip.

Toyota DOT 3 fluid

Yeah, I got the speed bleeders and Toyota DOT3 fluid. (only 2 bottles though, I wonder if that's enough).

What I was thinking really was unplug all the lines first and let the brake fluid drain out on all. Replace all of them with SS brake lines. Then start bleeding from rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, and front driver. Which means that at the point when I start bleeding, the master cylinder will be empty.

I think I'll do what you did T-bone. Just one wheel at a time. The thing I don't understand is, when you replace the line, doesn't the master cylinder fluid go down because it's being drained out? So do I stop the brake fluid from coming out while replacing it with the SS line? This way the master cylinder fluid doesn't run dry.

 

[pturley]

What I was thinking really was unplug all the lines first and let the brake fluid drain out on all.

That would likely drain your master cylinder. The MC is a major PITA to bleed, so avoid that if you possibly can. One wheel at a time, starting with the farthest from the MC, as T-Bone says.

Mine are StopTech. Happy so far.

 

[T-bone]

000000000

 

[MikeV]

I guess I'm just spoiled... I invested all of $38 in a Power Bleeder years ago, I don't worry about no stinkin' air in the lines.

 

[T-bone]

v000000000

 

[T-bone]

000000000

 

[butch_mr2]

Thanks T-Bone. I'll try to finish it this weekend. Hopefully not a lot family and work obligations this weekend. Actually, I'm doing this very part time (1 hour here, 1 hour there). I enjoy doing these things little by little and very carefully. It's my stress reliever from working 2 jobs and having a family. Oh, I'm also re-painting the caliper red. The last time I painted the calipers, it was crappy. So I'm doing it right this time.

 

[qmtran]

I have speed bleeders and when I did mine 3 to 4 full depressions of the brake pedal will be the perfect number of pumps before you top off the master cylinder.

I would recommend speed bleeders from rock auto. I got them for cheap.

 

[u8a]

I am considering going to the SS lines. For those of you that made the change did you notice an improvement in peddle feel to the point that it was worth your while?

Mark

 

[OldMan]

Post Deleted

 

[pturley]

I am considering going to the SS lines. For those of you that made the change did you notice an improvement in peddle feel to the point that it was worth your while?

Mark

For me, absolutely; but spongy brakes are a real peeve of mine.
There was an immediate, noticeable improvement; I felt it every time I stepped on the brake. The pedal was much firmer, and had more "feel". You do get used to it after a week or so, like just about any other mod, and the firmer, more responsive pedal just feels "normal". But a better normal than stock. If you're planning to flush your brake fluid anyway, it's not a lot of extra effort to change out the lines.

DO get speed bleeders either way, those definitely save a lot of hassle.

 

[u8a]

DO get speed bleeders either way, those definitely save a lot of hassle.

Agreed. I have used the speed bleeders before.

Yes I do understand that you would get use to the feel after while. One nice thing about these kind of mods is after driving another vehicle (one of mine is an F-150). You hop back into your Spyder stomp on the breaks and think to yourself, sweet!

Thanks for the feedback guys.

Mark