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Howdy,

My brake lights - tail and center - won't go off, even when the car is off. I have to pull the fuse so the engine doesn't die. Anyone know what's going here?
 

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Either faulty stop light switch, or, if the brake pedal and switch arrangement is like previous Toyotas, there is a little pad between the pedal/pedal arm and the switch, which if missing or misadjusted (or if the brake pedal arm itself is out of whack) will cause the switch not to be pressed and leave the brake lights on.
 

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Take your foot off the brake. Sorry could not resist. Maybe the sensor for when the brake is actually engaged is faulty or not adjusted correctly if they can be adjusted.
I was thinking this as well, or maybe he is just leaving his lights on
 

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Either faulty stop light switch, or, if the brake pedal and switch arrangement is like previous Toyotas, there is a little pad between the pedal/pedal arm and the switch, which if missing or misadjusted (or if the brake pedal arm itself is out of whack) will cause the switch not to be pressed and leave the brake lights on.
First thing I would check.
 

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Is this work that someone with little can maintenance experience can perform themselves?
Sure. It's more an issue of your size than your expertise. Working up under the dash in the driver foot well can involve minor (or even moderately advanced) gymnastic endeavor.
 

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Sure. It's more an issue of your size than your expertise. Working up under the dash in the driver foot well can involve minor (or even moderately advanced) gymnastic endeavor.
If I can fit under the dash (6'2", 285lbs)... anyone can. LOL

Although I have to remove the seat and put the top down so I can lay on my back.
 

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Is this work that someone with little can maintenance experience can perform themselves?
Yes, get a light and a friend. Get under the dash and find the brake switch. See if you can press more and your friend watching the brake lights can confirm they go out or not. If they go out find out what is missing and replace it. If they don't go out I would remove one wire from the switch. If that turns them off remove the switch and check with ohm meter to make sure the circuit doesn't open - best, or just get a new switch.
 

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Check the resistance of the brake pedal switch with the pedal depressed and not depressed. If it is the same in both instances then you have a bad switch.
 

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Check the resistance of the brake pedal switch with the pedal depressed and not depressed. If it is the same in both instances then you have a bad switch.
Ohms resistance, not push-with-your-finger resistance. I kinda got stuck there for a minute.

I can't think of anything other than the brake pedal switch gone bad to cause this. It's a cheap autozone part. $15. Just be careful unscrewing it under the dashboard. All those sheetmetal parts have edges that are sharp!
 

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Ohms resistance, not push-with-your-finger resistance. I kinda got stuck there for a minute.

I can't think of anything other than the brake pedal switch gone bad to cause this. It's a cheap autozone part. $15. Just be careful unscrewing it under the dashboard. All those sheetmetal parts have edges that are sharp!
We are talking about an electrical switch, i figured that would be understood. Next time Ill be sure to explain it a little better.
 

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Electrical part that is hidden in the brake box. Lights are off when contact is made between pedal and switch; lights on otherwise. We had to adjust when we swapped out the SMT brake pedal for the MT pedal during our SMT conversion. You need a stubby 14mm to release the jam nut and then rotate the switch so that it will make contact with the pedal in static position and then lights come on when contact with pedal is released; there is some range of adjustment available depending on how quickly you want the lights to come on. It is backwards to the way that most brake light switches work.
 
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