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Discussion Starter #1
Ok... so i picked up a set of cross drilled + slotted rotors and some ceramic pads that came with the rotors for $140 for all 4 corners since my brakes were warped when i got the car. these pads seriously... SUCK haha. anyways im going to be looking into new pads and SS lines soon as my next mod to the car. i really think my E-brake is really weak because of the pads having no bite and just being a no brand name ceramic pad. In my old car i had Hawk HP plus w/ drilled & slotted... those were AMAZING... but i cant find any HP plus for our MRS :(

Any suggestions on pads for our MRS that give a DECENT to OK bite, good for street use/autocross, and affordable. i want to get all 4 corners. and im already thinking of just getting goodridge SS lines. any suggestions would be very kind. thank you!

Anything like Porterfield R4S? Nothing crazy like Hawk Blues
 

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If I got all that stuff for $140 and discovered the pads are bad, I'd be suspicious of the rotors as well. Often, you get what you pay for.
 

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I would go with stock set up as well, other set up usually offer same or less performance for more sacrifice.
 

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I think drilled and slotted rotors is going overboard for what your needs are as it reduces surface for the pad to bit but does cool a lot faster. If I were in your position I would have bought a set of oem rotors. TRD makes a great pad for the car and from what I can remember hawk was involved with making the pads but I cant find where I read that information from so don't hold me acountable if I'm wrong. To answer your question TRD is a good solution to your problem as they work great. You should be able to grab sets for the front and back for around $140-160 just be prepared to clean your wheels more often from the brake dust. In the end brakes can be your best friend or worst friend I wouldnt dare go cheap on them.
Best of luck.
 

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I've used quite a few different pads and to be honest I have not really noticed any real difference from the stock pads except more dust. I say stick with the factory Toyota pads. I have the TRD pads on there now and all I have noticed is more dust up front. I have not used the EBC that some have used here. But unless your really tracking it stick with the Toyota.
 

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I think drilled and slotted rotors is going overboard for what your needs are as it reduces surface for the pad to bit but does cool a lot faster. If I were in your position I would have bought a set of oem rotors. TRD makes a great pad for the car and from what I can remember hawk was involved with making the pads but I cant find where I read that information from so don't hold me acountable if I'm wrong. To answer your question TRD is a good solution to your problem as they work great. You should be able to grab sets for the front and back for around $140-160 just be prepared to clean your wheels more often from the brake dust. In the end brakes can be your best friend or worst friend I wouldnt dare go cheap on them.
Best of luck.
So does TRD feels firmer and more bits but just more dust? btw, I thought they don't make rear anymore (I may be wrong^_^)
 

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I have dimpled and slotted rotors, and pbr/axxis ultimate pads. They are good for autocross, and have minimal dust. I haven't had any fade issues with them either.
 

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I highly Endorse the Porterfield RS-4's. They are great pads. They work, don't fade unless you really really try. Most of all wont break apart like the Axiss metal master pads at a track day. Learned that the hard way when I checked my pads after the day was done cause I didn't like the way they "new" pads performed. Big chuncks were missing.

Went back to using the Porterfields since then. Down side brake dust brake dust brake dust, your poor wheels will turn black quickly. But I rather have to wipe off brake dust then write off a car.
 

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Stick with OEM

I have used EBC red stuff, yellow stuff and green stuff, PBX and one or two others I am forgetting right now. All I can testify to is brake dust rotor wear and pad wear. Jamaica has the most roads per square mile anywhere in the world (Japan may be close). Our twisty roads with variable inclines are brutal on any braking system. Our tracks are no less forgiving...Take it from me OEM is better.
 

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The pads you have might not necessarily be bad, but might just be out of their temperature range. If you have "racing" type brake pads chanses are they just are just not getting hot enough to get any bite. ie. Racing pads on the street is a bad idea.

Project Mu always make good stuff, might be worth a look and they have a huge range of different compounds. If its just for the street pick one of their street sports type compounds.

Oh and the E-brake just seems to be weak regardless or at least thats what everyone is telling me after i complained about it being so crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i think ill be getting a set of the Porterfield RS4's all around. thanks for the input everyone!

I dont want OEM cuz im eventually going to be tracking/autocrossing the car so i dont want any brake fade. ive heard nothing but good about porterfield brakes and my friend has a set on his car and they are amazing.
 

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check out the carbotech xp8's and xp10's. those are amazing brake pads that would work well with OE blanks.
 

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Oem pads

I think we would need more information about your setup and needs.

Are you 1zz or 2zz? N/A or F/I? What tires are you running on? What other modifications do you have on your brake system? What problems are you experiencing with OEM pads and rotors?

Most people would say the OEM pads and rotors are just fine for most autosports purposes. I can say of my own experiences that I get no fade whatsoever on a road course, and the car stops fast, very fast.
 

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Most people would say the OEM pads and rotors are just fine for most autosports purposes. I can say of my own experiences that I get no fade whatsoever on a road course, and the car stops fast, very fast.
True. True.
But Pads & Crossdrilled Rotors on all four corners for $140?
Such a Deal! :biggrin:
 
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