MR2 SpyderChat banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Broke the Parking / E-Brake Cable (Diagnostic + Solution!)

So the other day, my car was having problems staying put on a hill after I started the engine, so I yanked the parking brake...a little too hard. It seems one side of the cable is stuck and it won't dis-engage. Anyone have any suggestions or solutions to the problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #2


Over time, the rubber boot that connects up to your rear brakes will dryrot. Water will get in, and seize your parking/e-brake cable, mostly like during the winter time.

Solution is to replace both cables at the same time because they will be in the same condition. $75-80 part from Toyota with an estimated 3hr shop labor time. This will require dropping the gas tank to get to one of the cable mounts. I did a little bit of the pre-work, removing the passenger seat, center console, and plastic cabin bins for quick access.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,643 Posts
Mine use to not want to release until I replaced the passenger rear caliper.Something to do with the return spring lever.Can you get the cable to move when disconnected?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
One of the cables still works and I was going to save it until I noticed the rubber boot was starting to tear. The other one is still stuck and won't move.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,067 Posts
Over time, the rubber boot that connects up to your rear brakes will dryrot. Water will get in, and seize your parking/e-brake cable, mostly like during the winter time.

Solution is to replace both cables at the same time because they will be in the same condition. $75-80 part from Toyota with an estimated 3hr shop labor time. This will require dropping the gas tank to get to one of the cable mounts. I did a little bit of the pre-work, removing the passenger seat, center console, and plastic cabin bins for quick access.
Well actually I replaced my cable without dropping the gas tank and only replacing the passenger side cable. I did this in 2005 and the drivers side cable still works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,067 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
And it's missing the third bracket as pictured in my picture.

There is another brake cable for the MR2 Spyder that is significantly cheaper (I saw it on RockAuto), so don't buy that one thinking you will save some money because that's not the one you need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,803 Posts
Yeah I just went to check my rear calipers to see if they were the issue but nope, cables are "frozen". Both sides won't release, much. Gotta drop the tank huh? I remember reading your thread Dev, about not having to, I'll have to reread. But dropping the tank isn't really that hard especially with a lift and all my rear plastics gone and since i've done it a few times :lol: installing my roll bar.

And with it being such a hassle job, I wouldn't buy a USED cable.

Thanks for posting up the price, is that for one or two? I hope both.

Did a quick search its 52.94 for each of the rear cables on 1sttoyotaparts. Not too bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23,067 Posts
Yeah I just went to check my rear calipers to see if they were the issue but nope, cables are "frozen". Both sides won't release, much. Gotta drop the tank huh? I remember reading your thread Dev, about not having to, I'll have to reread. But dropping the tank isn't really that hard especially with a lift and all my rear plastics gone and since i've done it a few times :lol: installing my roll bar.

And with it being such a hassle job, I wouldn't buy a USED cable.

Thanks for posting up the price, is that for one or two? I hope both.

Did a quick search its 52.94 for each of the rear cables on 1sttoyotaparts. Not too bad.
If you don't have a lift it can be a little difficult to reach the attachment point under the gas tank.
What I did was undo two of the gas tank bolts but still kept the bolts in place to drop the gas tank a little.
Then you fished it though from above to underneath. I bolted everything up except for the mounting point under the gas tank and it has been working ever since. To remove the old brake cable you should cut it on one end and then pass as much of it though then cut the other end and leave a remnant behind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
I replaced mine, and it was not big deal. You do not have to take out the bins, but you do have to remove the center console, and drop the tank. I have a thread on MR2OC.com in the spyder section about my efforts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
A quick temporary solution is to look where the cable meets the rear caliper and pull the pin that connects the cable to the caliper. The parking brake will now be released on that side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,803 Posts
A quick temporary solution is to look where the cable meets the rear caliper and pull the pin that connects the cable to the caliper. The parking brake will now be released on that side.
Good advice. I did this until my cables come in. Realized my parking brakes were actually semi engaged unequally by the stuck cables and everytime I broke semi hard, the car would swerve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,295 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Hmm...maybe my car was like that for awhile. I noticed that same feeling of the car swerving when I braked hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,033 Posts
I did the brakes on mine and noticed my boots were also rotted and water was under the remainder of the boots, and in the line. Are we really saying there's no way to replace just the boot? There must be a rubber boot kit somewhere...
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top