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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm trying to disassembly by myself a c60 1. And when I try to hammer the pin to get the shifter lever out I cannot get it out...Looks like is stuck or is anything previous to hammering that have to be done?
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Discussion Starter #2
And is possible to use the translate case of a c56(the part with the lsd inside) with the c60 gear part?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The manual says that... Anyway i need a new selector to adapt it to the mr2
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PBlaster, the proper punch and hammer it out. If you ruin the treads you will have to get a new cotter pin.
 

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Damn I remember doing this. Either a big sledge, tons of pb blaster and somebody (or something) supporting the shaft or use heat on the counter weight.

I never got to try the heat thing but if you hammer it, put a nut (make damn sure it is flush with the side of the pin you're hitting) so you don't damage the threads
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Im soaking it in WD40, brake cleaner... hammering it and it didnt move a mm... im maybe cutting it, it is necesary for the mr2 swap? (this is from a celica)
 

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Don't hammer it! You may bend the selector shaft. Use a C clamp and press it out using a socket.
This makes way too much sense.... And the BGB even says to hammer ... Thank you. I will be doing this with a C clamp from now on.
although, when I've had them really really stuck I've pulled the whole selector shaft to work with it on a bench rather than in the engine bay. Either way the clamp is completely superior.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have the gearbox in a bench, but i hammer it, try heating it and nothing... to take the selector out do you need to take that clip out right?
 

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This makes way too much sense.... And the BGB even says to hammer ... Thank you. I will be doing this with a C clamp from now on.
although, when I've had them really really stuck I've pulled the whole selector shaft to work with it on a bench rather than in the engine bay. Either way the clamp is completely superior.
The manual (like most service manuals) assumes the part isn't corroded fast. But in real life, the pin can get so corroded, it almost seems like it is part of the lever.

In that case, forget heat as it can heat the shaft and damage the seal (or the shaft itself) If the C-clamp method doesn't work, put the trans in neutral and unbolt the whole shifter assy from the case (4 bolts) and use a press with the lever supported with a sleeve or socket on the side away from the threads that will give clearance to allow the pin to move. This won't stress the shaft or the housing. If you don't have access to a press, you can also use a vise.

Thread the nut on the pin until it is flush with the end of the shaft. When you press on the end of the shaft, you are less likely to mushroom the end of the pin and damage it. Plus, if/when the pin breaks loose, it won't fly across the floor.

It may take a surprising amount of force to break the pin loose, even in a press.

Usually, the cover gasket is reusable, but the part# is 33584-12060. If you damage or bend the pin (likely if you use a large hammer), the part# is 33281-16020. If you damage the shaft, they are still available, but a bit expensive.
 

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I second pulling the shaft and using a punch on a bench with the shaft supported so it wont bend no matter how hard you hit it with a punch. I actually had the shaft out when I was swapping linkage bits and it is much easier. I also didn't torque that sheer pin down properly after installation and realized it after the shifter was all sloppy. Make sure you torque to spec after reassembly.

BTW you are punching the threaded side right? The threads pull the angled sheer head into the shaft to tighten the connection.
 

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Put the nut back loose and hammer the nut so the threads on the pins dont get screwed up.
 
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