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Adding a CAI can add power. However you need to do it right. Just moving the MAF to a larger tube won't work and lot's of people find it better to keep the stock intake snake assembly rather than making their own just because they don't have a way to tune the AFR.
This adapter mounts the MAF in the exact same way as stock making it read the exact same value. The open airfilter and less restrictive intake will up the air flow without changing the MAF calibration.

Reading about the MAF mod, I can not really see why that would make things better. Sure you remove the vanes giving a little better air flow, but still sucking air through the stock snake.

In my mind it makes more sense doing it by removing the snake, adding the Superhero adapter making the engine get colder air with way less restrictions. Going larger injectors yada yada will not improve stuff unless you are maxing the stock injectors out. Which I assume we are not doing looking at my wideband O2 sensor.

thing:3688542






You should go back and carefully reread the Cap's maf mod thread.
That being said, TRD did make a non velocity snake that cost a gazillion dollars. Completely removing it will only pull hot air from the exhaust side. The behind the battery approach is appropriate but I believe it should use a block off shield or an airbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
You should go back and carefully reread the Cap's maf mod thread.
That being said, TRD did make a non velocity snake that cost a gazillion dollars. Completely removing it will only pull hot air from the exhaust side. The behind the battery approach is appropriate but I believe it should use a block off shield or an airbox.
Check this thread. This is (obviously) for behind the battery use and I did MAT testing to just above ambient without a shield.

Now my new exhaust also got the temperatures much lower! But testing was done with the stock contraption :)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Again like I said I''m very new to this. Where would I "order" online? Are there shops nowadays that will professionally 3d print whatever file you send them? What are some of the better online places you use?
You can find 3D printers all over the place. A neighbor, a collage/school etc or just google any online provider. Don't know which ones are best in US.

A home printer are just as good, or even better actually then the manufacturing units if handled correctly. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I believe in testing, backing stuff up. I did the following tests with stock intake + exhaust, my CAI and finally CAI + 2.5" Exhaust with 100cell race cat.

Tests done at level ground, they are backed upp with several runs and use same wheels, similar ambient temps, 3rd gear pull only etc.... I also know all cars are individual and that times may wary but again testing against my self just to check I don't get slower with the mods I do. Enjoy :)

 

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Reading about the MAF mod, I can not really see why that would make things better. Sure you remove the vanes giving a little better air flow, but still sucking air through the stock snake.
This is what you need to reread:
http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?34825-1-and-2-ZZ-ECU-s-Side-by-Side..-Sorta&p=771783&viewfull=1#post771783

Unfortunately it's not available right now. It will clear up your confusion about what the mod actually does.

https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/maf-mod.53830/page-8

I didn't mean to say your tube wasn't behind the battery, just clearing up the confusion for anyone who would simply remove the snaked elbow or take your word that the Maf mod doesn't do anything.

I found you a thread where Cap explains it:
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=51647.25
 

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Discussion Starter #28

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Discussion Starter #30
While making a new sway bar for my car I found another tip of the day. The Volvo S/V40/Carisma front sway bar drop links are bolt on heavy duty upgrades for the Spyders rear. Don't know the need or benefit of a heavy duty drop link but this parts was widely available here, where nothing for the Spyder was listed in stock. (The Volvo rear drop link almost fits the Spyders front, but a bit too long)

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lemforder/1267831
 

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Discussion Starter #31
At my car the lower engine mounts turned out to be 75mm for the rear and 69mm for the front, not the preffered 79mm for polyurethane. This was perfect for hockey pucks to slide in after som playing with the water jet. Did my pucks 1mm over size which turned out to be stock puck diameter for the rear and turned down to 70mm for the front.

Black on black makes my cut holes hard to se, but the pucks are not completely solid but with 5 14mm holes around for some more give.

Rear bolt is 12mm, front bolt is 10mm. The socket in the center of the bushings are 55mm long/wide.

 

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Discussion Starter #33
My sway bar in the rear was totally fried. I did a new one. I have no clue about sway bars but I felt the car had some body roll and there are a bunch of upgrades which are all beefier. Still having no clue I draw it in the computer and added some load to it in the simulation to get a reference. My final design "improves" by 75-200% depending on choice of steel or which holes you choose.

Again, I have no clue but it's fun doing stuff. Car feels much more flat now. Feel free to use my files.




Stock deflexes 150mm at 100kg of load.


My 18mm tube deflexes around 90mm at the outer hole, same material as the stock one. Also remember this is in a perfect world where no rust or heat has affected the stock one.

Computer is a good friend, looking at the color we can se a 20mm move to the next hole sotr of makes the deflection go from 90mm to 70mm.


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3704715
 

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While making a new sway bar for my car I found another tip of the day. The Volvo S/V40/Carisma front sway bar drop links are bolt on heavy duty upgrades for the Spyders rear. Don't know the need or benefit of a heavy duty drop link but this parts was widely available here, where nothing for the Spyder was listed in stock. (The Volvo rear drop link almost fits the Spyders front, but a bit too long)

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/lemforder/1267831
The stock rear links plus Whiteline sway bars = Bent ;)
Wonderful sleuthing!
 

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Nice job on the rears!
Jasongts has a thread on his "nascar style" front sway bar build. Seems us weird folks are still looking for an affordable RCA lower ball joint assembly and steering tie rod drop link kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
While idling from the forums I keep doing parts. Also actually driving the car which is fun.

Did some thinking, looking at pictures and finally came around doing the top hung GT-wing. I always wanted a car that could pull off a vulgar GT wing and tha Spyder can do it. But just drilling in the hood is not the Superhero way so I manufactured a rear strut bar together with brackets, raisers and new mounts for the wing.

The ebay carbon fiber wing was.... ABS plastic so my aim for doing it active for aerodynamic braking had to go for the moment. If I were to flip this one 90 degrees at 100mph it would leave the car.

It's extremely hard to photograph the wing so that it looks like IRL due to perspective etc... looking at pictures of GT cars I decided to up the wing 100mm/4" at the last moment and I feel it was the right move. Now it looks aggressive without being ridiculous.













How do I open the hood?? I don't LOL.... V2.0 coming with new raisers...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Will share this too in a bit, as with the splitter only the hole pattern are important, what you choose too attach to that is up to you. :)

 
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