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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, Ive been having problems with the ABS light. I had a mechanic check the sensors and he said they were all working. I looked at the Spyders diagram and the sensors are inside the hub, and they look like a closed unit. I dont see any way to clean them. Also, in the diagram it says the sensor can't be used again if removed? Anyone has any ideas on what to do?

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There are no moving parts in the sensor, there's not really anything to clean. They work like an electric guitar pickup - a little magnet and a coil that reacts to metal moving past them to create an electric signal.

Do you have any ABS-related fault codes? How's your brake fluid level look? How much material is left on your brake pads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There are no moving parts in the sensor, there's not really anything to clean. They work like an electric guitar pickup - a little magnet and a coil that reacts to metal moving past them to create an electric signal.

Do you have any ABS-related fault codes? How's your brake fluid level look? How much material is left on your brake pads?
I had the brake fluid replaced when I got the car, they also told me the brakes were fine. The only thing I noticed was that they squealed a bit when I pushed the car in neutral, like maybe they were a bit stuck? The fluid seems normal, braking works fine although it fills a little bit spongy. The ABS sensors are also working.

Should I try getting new brake pads? If cleaning is not possible...

Thanks for the reply.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
These are the codes I have:
Communication Device Gadget Mobile device Font Display device
Hand Gadget Input device Finger Output device
Output device Communication Device Gadget Font Mobile device


I dont think my cheap OBD can read ABS :(
Also I cant figure out this codes, I only changed the gas cap and checked the ABS sensors are working.
 

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MR-2 ZZW30 2001 RHD
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To answer your original question: the front ABS sensors are sealed units, they should not need cleaning.
The rears are open to the elements and as they have a magnet inside they can collect metal shavings from the brakes.
So yeah, sometimes it helps to clean them.
To check if they need cleaning, use techstream to read out the values of the individual sensors.

To start diagnosing the ABS light it is probably better to read the fault codes of the ABS unit with techstream.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
To answer your original question: the front ABS sensors are sealed units, they should not need cleaning.
The rears are open to the elements and as they have a magnet inside they can collect metal shavings from the brakes.
So yeah, sometimes it helps to clean them.
To check if they need cleaning, use techstream to read out the values of the individual sensors.

To start diagnosing the ABS light it is probably better to read the fault codes of the ABS unit with techstream.
Oh I can't afford Techstream right now but you said the rear ABS can be cleaned? I only checked the front so I didn't think it was possible. I'll just clean them up and see if that helps. What cleaner should I use? I have Carburetor cleaner and WD40 at hand.

Anyways, thanks a lot for the info, I hope this solves that light. Do you have any ideas what the other engine codes mean? I found a video were they took down the gas tank and replaced all the seals but I'm not sure if I could pull that off...
 

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Oh I can't afford Techstream right now
Like cyclehead says, a MiniVCI cable from AliExpress only sets you back something like 25 dollar. Well worth the money.

but you said the rear ABS can be cleaned? I only checked the front so I didn't think it was possible. I'll just clean them up and see if that helps. What cleaner should I use? I have Carburetor cleaner and WD40 at hand.
No need for any cleaners. What you want to do is remove the sensor and pluck all the metal shavings from the tip. Cleaners or compressed air will not work.
The ABS sensor are often a pain to remove, so personally I would always check them with diagnostic tools before even attempting to remove them. On rusty cars I had a very low sucessrate of removing ABS sensors without destroying the sensor and/or hub carrier.

Anyways, thanks a lot for the info, I hope this solves that light. Do you have any ideas what the other engine codes mean? I found a video were they took down the gas tank and replaced all the seals but I'm not sure if I could pull that off...
It is best to systematically check all the components. It could sometimes just be a hose or a leaking gas cap.
I think there are a few threads here on Spyderchat from members with similar problems.
Luckily for me, European cars do not have CELs for evap and have a more simple system compared to US. So my knowledge is lacking on the US evap system.
 

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I had those codes. Thought it was the gas cap but it wasn’t. Since you replaced the gas cap, l would consider that first. The 446 is the more relevant code that can cause the other two, 441 and 442. That’s an issue with the vent line. Check that the vsv electrical connector @ the air box is plugged in. If that’s good, make sure the hose is connected and not damaged from the air box up to the firewall connection. The only other possibility I can think of is the vsv itself. IIRC, that valve is normally open and without an electrical connection, it won’t be able to close and will show up as a leak during system checks. A damaged hose would have the same effect.
 

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The ABS sensors are simple to remove, if they didn’t 'rust' in place. Getting them free without damage takes a lot of patience and luck. Not recommended unless you are looking to replace. As far as that ABS light, cleaning is IMHO unlikely the issue. Make sure your brakes are still good and the calipers are not frozen (pins, piston, etc.). My odyssey had a code resulting from a wire that rubbed at an OE body turning/connection point enough over 17 years that the wire was sometimes open.
The engine codes, eyeball scan every vacuum related hose and then research and read 1zz internet... GL
 
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