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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

My previous motor (1zz with bolt on turbo on stock internals) exploded in a shower of metal. It had put a rod through the block. (havent stripped it yet)

I bought a second hand motor (also a 1zzfe) and internals have all been replaced, compression dropped, all engineering work done.

The motor should be assembled during the course of next week.

My dilemma is that i need to get the car from the mechanic to the tuner. (about 60kms)
The car is running the Apexi PFC and has been mapped for the bolt-on turbo kit already.
The difference now is that the compression has been lowered.

Would it be ok for me to drive it to the tuner on this map (with very low boost) or should i get it towed?
 

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you can drive it been there done that just try not to enter boost.
 

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different is different.

every time that i've changed engine internals, exhaust or intake configurations i've had the car retuned

you can probably baby it 30/40 miles to the tuner and dyno

DO NOT ALLOW IT TO HIT BOOST

i assume that you have a working boost gauge.

if [you should for tuning purposes] have a working wide band, keep track of your afr's
if you are running lean....don't drive it. trailer it or tow it
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the responses

i will try to make a plan to get it towed. its quite a distance to the tuner. i'd rather not take any chances... :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Quick question....

Another dilemma...

Do i run the engine in and then tune? (will have to be done on the current maps)
or do i put the car on the dyno and tune without running in?

i have used the boost controller (Blitz SBC) to drop the boost all the way down. Test drove it yesterday and its going smooth. Has a slight miss at around 2500rpm at times. Like a gurgle. that was there before but only sometimes and when the motor was cold.
On my test drive the motor was cold'ish..

Alternatively, do i load a base map for run-in and then put it on the dyno and get it tuned? If so, can someone mail me one? [email protected]
Car has:
- Hass stage 2 turbo kit
- water/methanol injection
- intercooler
- 8:8 wiseco pistons
- mwr valves and rods

Also, if someone could send me the user manual for the blitz boost controller i'd appreciate it. Mine is in Japanese.... :huh:
 

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You should break in the engine before dyno tuning. At least put 100 miles to settle in the crank and rod bearings before redlining it. You can drive it to the tuner place if the current tune is drivable. To keep boost off safely, disconnect the wastegate rod from the turbo downpipe. Never allow the turbo to blow air into atmosphere under load (by disconnecting the charge pipe), or it will leak oil past the compressor seal.
 

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There are more theories about engine break-in than there are engines....

I'd personally go by what the person who built the engine has to say, as he's the person you will be yelling at if this engine implodes. The only advice I can offer is change the break-in oil (and filter) after the first 20 minute run, to be rid of any extra metal crap and assembly lube. From there it's anyone's guess as to what is good vs bad for an engine.
 
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