The problem with compression testers is the value is not very accurate but they are a good diagnostic tool if something is obviously wrong. Some read high and some read low combined with how you perform the test. What is important with a compression test is even values across all cylinders. It can detect a major loss of one cylinder due to various causes and for performing a wet compression test adding oil into the cylinder. It is not good for determining the compression book values precisely unless there is a major deviation like extremely low compression.Funny you should mention that, I have already ordered a leak-down tester. But how can I get pressures 50PSI OVER the spec?
Timing is a good idea. It would explain why none of my other remedies have worked.
I wouldn’t start a new post because all of your history is on this thread which are important clues. if you feel the need to I’m not stopping you.Should I have started a different post? To me this is all part of trying to find the problem, but the title is "Can the camshafts be replaced with the engine in the car."
You are not supposed to feel a kick when lift engages. The engagement point is ideally where the two torque curves cross over. What lift does do is extend your torque curve up beyond 8k RPM, which is where the extra power comes from.... I don't feel much difference in acceleration. Just sounds louder. I've heard some people describe it a little like a turbo. Is it actually quite subtle?
When lift engages, the sound of the motor changes very audibly, and you do feel a kick, like a turbo.Ok, thank you for the explanation. So next question. Doesn't this have to be checked with the front cover removed? Can that even be done with the engine in the car?
This may be another clue. When the engine goes into lift, I can hear it very distinctly. Like there is no doubt from the engine noise that it hit lift. But frankly, I don't feel much difference in acceleration. Just sounds louder. I've heard some people describe it a little like a turbo. Is it actually quite subtle?
@rmeller I've taken the liberty of using a green sharpie to mark up the dyno chart and show what the crossover rpm should be, according to your theory. The answer is... Alabama.You are not supposed to feel a kick when lift engages. The engagement point is ideally where the two torque curves cross over. What lift does do is extend your torque curve up beyond 8k RPM, which is where the extra power comes from.
4. Definitely there is an instant increase in torque (also rate of acceleration) and this is shown on the typical dyno chart as well as felt as a kick on the butt dyno. Maybe your butt dyno is out of calibration.4. My lift feels more like RMeller describes. The power keeps climbing but not a kick. Definitely loud though.
5. If the timing marks are correct on the camshafts, how do I know it's not one tooth off on the crankshaft?
6. I'm not sure how you rotate your engine. I couldn't get anything on the crank bolt except from underneath and then I couldn't see what was going on up top. I usually bump the starter.
So, that is funny. Did they raise the engagement point just to make sure that you knew that you were getting something for the extra money?@rmeller I've taken the liberty of using a green sharpie to mark up the dyno chart and show what the crossover rpm should be, according to your theory...
Yes absolutely - their marketing team must have found that the lift kick is addictive and the main selling point for this engine. For once, regrettably, marketing won out over engineering. Every other time it's the engineers who have their way with something completely non-sensible.So, that is funny. Did they raise the engagement point just to make sure that you knew that you were getting something for the extra money?
no need to settle for the Alldata version of the manual. It is a free download in the files section of the Spyder facebook groupOk, so comments on all of the comments.
1. I have the shop manual in the form of alldatadiy.com. Not the easiest to use, but it is there.
2. I have looked at the camshafts and although there is a little bit too much wear on the high lift lobes of #3 and #4 cylinders, it's very mild and does not account for the problems I'm having. All clearance are in spec.
3. Yes, the motor was sourced from MWR.
4. My lift feels more like RMeller describes. The power keeps climbing but not a kick. Definitely loud though.
5. If the timing marks are correct on the camshafts, how do I know it's not one tooth off on the crankshaft?
6. I'm not sure how you rotate your engine. I couldn't get anything on the crank bolt except from underneath and then I couldn't see what was going on up top. I usually bump the starter.
If you're interested, you can see the whole swap on my youtube channel "antimatter garage." I have something like 8 episodes devoted to my swap. The videos are long so watch on 1.25 speed or something. Just FYI.
Again, thank you for the help. This has got me quite stressed because our workhorse car (1999 Toyota Solara V6 manual) has 359,000 miles on it and it's starting to idle poorly. I'm a little concerned it may have a bad head gasket and I'm afraid to look. If I have to take it offline, that will leave me with, let's see, oh yeah, a bicycle.
