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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed and clean the maf, air filter, 02 sensors, gapped the spark plugs but still having trouble with cold starts. After starting the car and attempting to drive, when pressing on the accelerator the car bogs down and won't gain power for a couple of seconds, pull to the stop sign a block away and same thing happens. Once I've driven for a short bit, 5 mins, the hesitation goes away however I still feel like there is a lag in power under 3k rpms. This also then happens after I'm leaving work. I'm finding this only happens when the car is cold. After driving for a bit when leaving from a stop I have no issue. Should I pull the IAC and check it? What else?
 

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Sounds like a MAF Calibration Problem during Open Loop..

Do you have a Stock Intake.. ?

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
How, exactly, did you change AND clean the MAF?
Tried cleaning and didn't work so I changed it out.

Sounds like a MAF Calibration Problem during Open Loop..

Do you have a Stock Intake.. ?

Cap
Sorry Cap, should have mentioned 2zz swap, not stock intake. After a battery pull all seems normal, even the power response. The issue just returns about a day later. The reason I mentioned the IAC is sometimes there is a rough idle.
 

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The 2ZZ only has One O2 Sensor per Four Injectors.. Unlike the Stock 1ZZ that has One O2 Sensor per 2 Injectors.. So the 1ZZ has better fueling than the 2ZZ, when things get Older..

Reading my tea, it says you Likely have a Dirty Injector.. and the ECU is having a hard time Adjusting for it..

www.witchhunter.com $100 and One week

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The 2ZZ only has One O2 Sensor per Four Injectors.. Unlike the Stock 1ZZ that has One O2 Sensor per 2 Injectors.. So the 1ZZ has better fueling than the 2ZZ, when things get Older..

Reading my tea, it says you Likely have a Dirty Injector.. and the ECU is having a hard time Adjusting for it..

www.witchhunter.com $100 and One week

Cap
OK thanks Cap. I'll try that out.
 

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Kind of a longshot but double check your intake for any cracks. Make sure it seals up right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok Cap, I sent off the injectors got them back, up and running but it would still bog but not as often. It's been about a month now but now it's back again everytime. While the injectors were getting cleaned, I took the time to clean the tb and iac, both were a little dirty. I did notice the hose that ran the the tb was kinked so I replaced that. I've recently taken a new job up in the mountains about 2000 ft higher in elevation and i've really had some trouble getting power up here with a cold start. Another thing i've noticed is that when accelerating when it's bogging if I go full throttle i goes away for a second. I thought about checking the tb sensor but don't understand why it would be ok when the car is warmed up? what's the next step?
 

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Need to check the fuel trims.. I'm interested in the Long term Fuel trim.. you only have one.. Read it at a 'Fast Idle'.. about 2K RPM sitting in the Parking lot.. or if you can.. read it at Cruze RPM at freeway speed..

Usually need a Lap Top type of Code Reader .. to get 'Live Data'

Cap
 

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Any update on this? I have a similar problem. Mine went away for a couple weeks after cleaning the Maf. I cleaned the filter first and that had no effect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Need to check the fuel trims.. I'm interested in the Long term Fuel trim.. you only have one.. Read it at a 'Fast Idle'.. about 2K RPM sitting in the Parking lot.. or if you can.. read it at Cruze RPM at freeway speed..

Usually need a Lap Top type of Code Reader .. to get 'Live Data'

Cap
Sorry Cap, didn't see that you had responded so quickly. ok so the reading was between 12.5 and 14.8, going 65 - 70. 14.1 was the best constant reading in what flat area I could find in the mountains.
 

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The 4AGE motors generally have this issue on our side.
Its usually the O2 sensor. When replacing that, dont use any sort of gasket maker as that stuffs it up again.

I see you have checked and replaced most sensors and have done an ecu reset. The fact that it is better at full throttle would indicate a sensor. At full throttle the ecu ignores the sensor readings and goes into closed loop (if i'm remembering correctly). but then again, u say its only for a second...

any error codes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The 4AGE motors generally have this issue on our side.
Its usually the O2 sensor. When replacing that, dont use any sort of gasket maker as that stuffs it up again.

I see you have checked and replaced most sensors and have done an ecu reset. The fact that it is better at full throttle would indicate a sensor. At full throttle the ecu ignores the sensor readings and goes into closed loop (if i'm remembering correctly). but then again, u say its only for a second...

any error codes?
Thank you for the help. I agree that it has to be some sensor because it's only when starting the engine cold. I did have some lean code but that was before I started testing and swapping out sensors. One question I have is the IAC, the BGB states it should be half open, then when you turn the key it should fully close, open, then half open. It does all of that except for when the car is off, I would say it's about 1/4 open, would that cause anything?
 

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Fwiw I cleaned my MAF sensor again and the bogging has gone away again just like the last time I cleaned the MAF. I expect it will return in a couple weeks.
 

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Sorry Cap, didn't see that you had responded so quickly. ok so the reading was between 12.5 and 14.8, going 65 - 70. 14.1 was the best constant reading in what flat area I could find in the mountains.
TOTALLY missed the reply.. the harvest is here, and the grapes will not wait..

+12 and +14 on the Long term fuel trim is too much.. I have found that the Fuel Mixture will be lean upon acceleration.. Really you want to be less than +10, and Ideally at +5 to -5 ( stock Set up.. )..

Can you put a smaller intake on the car.. Like a Stock Spyder Intake.. ??

A Stock Spyder Intake running a 2ZZ Motor, '00 Celica ECU, and Yellow Injectors should bring your fuel trims to -25.. ( Pulling Fuel ).. If you take out the vanes from the Spyder intake, the trims will hit the -10 to -5 range.. Can you try this?.. the Performance should improve..

Cap
 
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