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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, New here and looking for some answers to the problamatic smt. I have read through the smt forums and seems like these are POS. Any way just got a 2002 spyder and pulled it in the shop to do a complete ferrari kit on it. Went to move it the other day and when I put it in reverse or 1st it jerks stalls out the motor like a clutch was let out too quick. The check engine light and the trans light are on. When the gear actuator moves in and out the light goes on and off with the actuator.

I had a snap on computer hooked up to the car and it said it couldnt connect.???? Upon reading these forums I have read about the actuator, shift and clutch sensors, TCU, ECU,Input shift speed sensor, etc.

What should I look into first because I cant get these codes out of the system. The compartment behind the drivers seat doesnt appear to have had water in there so that rules out water shorting it out.

I just drove this thing a week ago and now nothing HELP Please
 

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First off....it's probably not the best idea to make your intro post a slap against other SMT owners when you preface your thread by calling their sequential's a POS. It's simply not the case. The majority of them run trouble-free. Only the bug that gets squashed complains, hence the illusion that all SMT's have problems. Have you checked the sticky for precat failures? It makes the SMT forum look tame by comparison.

Others will chime in but you're probably running the old tranny computer which had a TSB for creeping but also a few other nibbles. Until you determine if it might actually be the culprit, consider cleaning all the electrical connections. I'm going to bet it's going to be a communications problem between the TCU and engine computer but no codes yet to verify. A new ECU will usually resolve comm failures when all else fails. Best price new online is just under $600 but a sympathetic dealer might give you a better deal considering it was a TSB issue. Some will, some won't. They're a challenge to find used.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sorry

I didn't mean to step on any toes. The problem with mine just popped up and I haven't even driven it yet. Not saying that they are junk just mine might be. so you think the new updated computer might be the fix? I will try that and see what happens. Let me get this straight I need a t c m not in ecu? What about the other sensors that are on the actuator? Thank you for your much needed advice
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Which computer should I b replacing. The 1 with the big plug behind the seats or the 1 with the 4 plugs behind the seat
 

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Crazy SMT...

ok well how many miles and little more info on the shifts other than the in and out of the garage thing???
Can probably save you a bunch of money, wish someone would have led me here first....the main problem is yes Toyota never finished the software and second of all, how can the car really tell you if there is any problem internally in the transmission.
well I have learned it does it by the TCM and ECU codes not comunicating because they can't figure it out either.
My SMT did all of this then it got worse, broken selector pin cause it couldn't shift and then all the gear syncros were shot and the clutch, was the real problem after everyone else and myself was focusing on the GSA and the Pump and computers not....

Good luck if you need any parts I have lots of them..

My car would constantly loose the gear it was in and come out every time I reversed on any incline and repeatedly through 1646&1647
 

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Are you jumping it off to start it? A bad battery can do CRAZY things to an SMT, and since you said you tried to move it, not drive it or take off, makes me think you had it put up awhile. Low voltage would also make the ECU comms go glitchy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well it's a 2002 with 155,000 miles. I know nothing about the service records because I bought it as is. We drove the vehicle for about a day and pulled it into the shop. I don't know how long it has been sitting before I bought it
when I did drive it it felt like the shift took a while to change gears is that normal. Now trying to pull it out of the shop it will start but will not engage a gear it will just die or the neutral light just blinks. When it does find a gear it lunges forward and then stalls. The battery has enough juice to start the car is that not enough to run the computers? When we were trying to pull codes we also had a battery charger hooked up to give it more juice. I'm lost.
 

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Dunno why your SnapOn isn't communicating with the stock ECU, you might want to try a cheapo code reader first.
Then start "peeling the onion." Start by ensuring you have good battery prior to starting so the hydraulics can build up enough pressure to operate -- put the car on a charger, make sure the battery is fully charged, make sure the hydraulic pump runs when you open the driver's side door. Then give it a go.

Not working? Well, there are several possible "easy" things wrong, an infinite possible number of "difficult" things (refer to nicholas for the difficult things). It's almost NEVER just a bad TCM (unless it has taken on water damage). Could simply be the clutch engagement point needs to be re-learned. Could be one of the sensors. First thing I'd want to check is the clutch engagement point. Problem is, you really want a techstream tool to do a "relearn" procedure.

If you really think a new TCM is in order, there are a few on car-part.com at any time. Most of the time that would be a waste of money, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
LOL on the body kit. Trust me it will be sweet. Vehicle transformations are what we do this one is just extreme. We are using it as a promotional tool for our shop. We are calling it an M-ari. Either way I will do a new battery and check the pump, check the gear pin to see if it has all the movements, etc and will report my findings. I was just saying computer because other forums are saying just that. Didnt know if a newer computer would have the correct files on it. Other than that the compartment behind the drivers seat is clean and no signs of water in there.???????? I will see if I can get the codes to come up. What cheap reader can I get for this?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Update

ok new battery. Opening the door activated the hpu and ran for 10-11 sec. Started it up and actuator is moving constantly ( from under the car in and out) Still when put into reverse (which may take a couple tries) Stalls the motor. Will be getting a reader today and will see if I can pull codes.
 

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We are calling it an M-ari.
A Mary? ;)

Actuator moving back and forth not a good sign, but it's out of my league.
One other obvious thing to check -- pull the center console, eyeball the condition of the shifter switch mechanism (mine was gunked up with spilled coke or coffee or both - shooting it with electronics cleaner cured my SMT's early woes).

I'm still bothered by your SnapOn not connecting.... could point to a CANbus problem, then all bets are off.

You need to find/PM Cap Weir on this forum. He's the guru.
 

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I’ve been Sitting on this Thread.. looking for some Verbal Banter that I can get a Clue as to what might have happened.. Looks like I’ll have to ask some questions..

You have talked about no service records.. and the Car is new to you..

Where did you get it..
Was it running PERFECTALLY when you picked it up.. no Noticeable issues?..
How many miles ( Aprox ) and how many Starts did it have on it before it started Screwing up.. ??..
How Long did it sit before It started Screwing up..
Did the Battery Ever Run Dead in the Screwing Up Time Period..

I’m trying to figure out if it’s possible that the Clutch could have Rusted a Little between the Lat time it was driven.. and the Screw up time.. or whether any ‘Erratic’ Electrical Gremenlans could have changed any of the Stored Target Values of the TCU..

If the Clutch Rusts.. then the Friction Point will be different.. and that will cause ‘Jerking’ till the rust gets worn off..

I’m with MikeV on the Cheepo OBD2 Reader.. as usually reading the ECU/TCU Codes is not a problem..

One thing I have Found.. if if the 12 Volt Power is missing from the OBD2 Plug NONE of my Readers will connect.. Including the Expensive ones.. as they Must be Powered from the OBD2 Port.. Check the Plug for the 12 Volt pin..

The next step should be to get a ‘Sensor Relearn’ using Techstream.. that will set the Sensors to the GSU and the TCU.. and all should be happy..

That will give a Basis to start from..

Cap
 

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It will do the moving in and out repetitively at the beginning of the contact relearn procedure, allow it enough time to complete that portion. The neutral light should be blinking and the display will be counting off gears. When the neutral light becomes steady start the rest of the relearn procedure.

Oh forgot to ask if your reader works with new battery or if ya have any lights on
 

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the relearn

yes it has to be the Techstream, and also it 155,000 miles I would definely look at the car fax on this vehichle research the records of any new clutch or bearing and or syncro's, mine was shot at 70,000 not to say all are but, I heard the bearing failure in the back right side while driving and the GSA, would never relearn because something was telling the computers things were just not right.


Nick
 

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Smt

Matrix,

I have just been all through the smt for the last year, working with the mechanics in the shop with them, my car in all was at Toyota twice and a huge top problem solver shop in my area, and finally last but not least a major transmission repair with a 26 year veteran, the SMt is complicated, but after all I have been through, I believe that the GSA is a very well built part, I have had it fully apart and the pump is very built also, but the weekness i feel, is in the transmission, clutch is not bullet proof could have been designed better and, the syncros are not brass they are some type of graphite composite and very expensive, $600 for the rings.

You have all the guru's attention here, Cap, Mike and others we will help you get to this.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thank you

You all have been great to me so far and thank you for being patient with me as I am not nor do I claim to be a mechanic. I will try each of these suggestions independently so be patient with me. First will check on voltage to the data port to try and get codes for you to have something to start with. Thank You all for the help.
 
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