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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everybody,

I'm having a serious issue with my Spyder.
It is a 2001 with stock 1zz motor. Stock internals. Around 75k miles.
It has a PowerFC ecu , intake and exhaust, stock headers with precats cleared out.

Last week I decided to get a new air filter cone. I when to advanced auto and grabbed a
cheap K&N look alike. When I put it on, the car would barely idle for a few seconds and stall out.
While the car was trying to idle the intake was making a suction sound like when you turn off the car.
the AFR reading was also very lean. I didn't try to drive it. I just cleaned out the original AEM fabric type cone filter and put it back on. The car then started and ran fine. This was weird to me but I figured it had to do with the way the PowerFC was tuned.

One week later i'm cruising down the highway at about 75-80 coming home from work. When I took my exit I came to a stop and the spyder sputtered and stalled. I stated it back up and it was running rough and only stayed running it if tap tap tap at the throttle. I could get it going and drove it home but I had to either keep it under load(excel) or Lift(decel) . If i tried to just cruise at 45-50 it would buck and sputter with the AFR reading 20-22 (lean). Under load it felt almost ok and smooth, maybe a lil sluggish. I made it home. Only real spare part I had home to test was the stock ECU. The PowerFC runs off of maps, the stock ecu relies on sensors more so. with the stock ecu plugged in the condition got worse. The car fires up and stalls right out. If I try to keep it running tap tap tap on the throttle like i did with the powerFC it won't respond the same, sounds worse, and stalls much faster. The stock ecu was sitting in a box for a few years. When I hooked it up and it didn't help matters any (actually got worse) I decided to put the code reader on it. It had a Code (P1656 - OCV Circuit Malfunction Bank 1)
this had to be a new code right?? it was unplugged in a box- no way it stored the code that long right?? as soon as power is disconnected it clears codes??? Well I looked into the code and it's the Oil Control Valve. I took it out, ran 12v and it sprung open. It seems to work. I figured maybe the circuit isn't triggering it so I put in back in the engine and ran 12v again and tried starting the car. No Change at all. So I figured the OCV is ok and moved on.
I decided to disconnect the MAF (stock ECU still connected) and the car seemed to respond better. Still rough but not as bad and will idle on its own for like 7 seconds and before stalling. If I tap tap tap the throttle it will stay alive like it did with the PowerFc in place of the Stock ECU. I'm now under the impression that the problem is the MAF or MAF Circuitry. Maybe a wire loosened up when I was playing with the filter one week earlier? Maybe a short or open developed. Maybe a mouse ate my wires?? I'm good mechanically but I am weak electronically. without a new fresh engine code appearing I don't know the next step. Maybe the corolla MAF is the same and I can hit a local junk yard and grab one to test it?? I can take a video of what is happening tomorrow and post it up.

Please any input is greatly appreciated!!!!!
 

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Does the cone filter that caused the problem require oil? If so it sounds like you have a generous coating of oil on your MAF. Clean the MAF with a cleaner specifically made for that and then give it a try. Over oiling the filter causes problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you guys for the advice.
I tested a used MAF after cleaning the original one with Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner and problem persisting. The new/used piece also did not fix my issue. So I went back to square one.(vacuum lines)- The monster Vac Line from the valve cover to intake mani was completely loose on the intake side. Every other car toyota makes with the 1zz engine gives you a great view of this area. unfortunately for me in this instance the placement of the engine completely covers that throttle body and intake mani. Duh on me :huh: ... I should have checked them a bit more 1st.
 

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If the intake tube gets loose the car stalls. Make sure the intake in on the throttle body and all the clamps aretight. My guess something on the intake tube came loose.
 

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Keep the MAF you got as a Replacement..

A few of them have 'Somewhat Died'.. and having a Known Good to check with is a Help..

The Symptioms of the 'Somewhat Dead' MAF is.. Neg Fuel Trims at Idle, Pos Fuel Trims at Running.. Or throwing a Lean or Rich Code on BOTH banks ..

Or Running like Krap..

It is likely the Failure is some 'Un-Washable Crud' that gets burned onto the Hot wire, and causes it to act like an Insolator.. so the Readings are now not Proper.. and NO amount of Cleaning will get it back to working Properly..

Cap
 
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