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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys

Preparing for a coolant change and the BGB says to 'replace the gaskets at the same time' (page CO-2) without other specifics. The book is referencing the various drain plugs: One in the radiator, one in each of the coolant lines front to back, and the one in the engine block(?).

I found the part numbers for three of the drains. The radiator plug gasket (16492-21050). the 2 coolant line plug gaskets (90430-08008), but I can't find the part number, or even if there is a gasket, for the drain plug on the engine. One T dealer said there is no gasket on the engine drain plug. The other didn't know.

Does someone here know the part number for the gasket on the engine drain plug? Or the less likely scenario, that there actually isn't one?

And does anyone have a photo or two of the drain plug in the engine? So I can see where it is exactly and what it looks like. I assume you need to get under the car for the engine plug, and I've heard people say you need to be a contortionist t reach it...

Thanks All!
 

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All that isn't necessary .... just drain it with the two bolts , one in each of the coolant tubes towards the front of the car .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Phat
So no need to remove the lower radiator plug or the engine plug? That certainly makes things easier.
I've seen alot of complaints of people not properly bleeding all the air out and having overheating isues. Any tricks? Or is it just patience...
Supposed to keep the car level for the replacement. Is there enough space to get at the 2 bolts and get a drain pan under without using 4 jack stands? I'm reading that out loud and shaking my head no, probably not...
 

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The radiator don't have a drain plug . You can probably just do two jack stands in the front and let it back down to drain . Burping you just follow the BGB ......
 

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There is, I believe, a YouTube video on the process. Pull the plugs in pipes running center of car, heater open and plug (more a spigot) in block open. Close drains, keep air lock tubes open - all as instructed. Refill - except procedure worked best for me by getting the liquid in car while level as instructed in the BGB. Then run it. As you run it, jack the back of the car up high. Add fluid intermittently. Burping done.
 

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The radiator and heater core do not have a drain plug, but they do have a petcock, which you unscrew to empty them of coolant. Per the BGB, you then attach a length of clear tubing to each, and suspend them(tape them up), attached to the underside of the hood. This allows air to escape from the system as you are refilling. All of this is detailed in the BGB Instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, thanks. I'll go look at youtube for the video.
In the BGB I see 4 drain plugs in one drawing and two other AIR drain plugs under the front bonnet (radiator and heater water valve) where the 2 clear hoses are attached.

So open radiator and reservoir caps, the two drain plugs on the lower lines, drain the system, set the service hoses, refill the system, making sure the air is bleeding out.

ISpy, your comment about jacking the car up in the back while its running immediately brought to mind the scene from Ferris Bueller's Day Off when they jacked up the ferrari to run the mileage backwards by putting a brick on the gas pedal... and we all know what happened next. ;)
 

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For the 2 plugs in the coolant pipes, I recommend that you put a bit of loctite PST on the threads when you reinstall. The PST will prevent leaks and also prevent the threads from corrosion
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
TY

To be certain, are you talking about loctite 537 pst? 592 is also high temp pst and says auto applications.
Gonna buy a tube...

Bought a tiny tube of 592 for automotive applications from ebay. hope it's not counterfeit...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
would you guys replace the water pump during the change (75K mi), even if there is no issue with the one in the car? I've heard both sides.

and swap the thermostat? y/n?
 

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would you guys replace the water pump during the change (75K mi), even if there is no issue with the one in the car? I've heard both sides.

and swap the thermostat? y/n?
Considering the age of the hoses, thermostat, and water pump, I would change all of these for new. The Silicone hose kit from HPS is a really good quality set of hoses. Considering that modern coolant is good for 10-years, if you do this you will have another 10-years of not having to worry about the entire cooling system.
 

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TY

To be certain, are you talking about loctite 537 pst? 592 is also high temp pst and says auto applications.
Gonna buy a tube...

Bought a tiny tube of 592 for automotive applications from ebay. hope it's not counterfeit...
Almost any of the Loctite PST's will do. These anaerobic thread sealants are the best product for sealing threads and fluid fittings.

Dave
 

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Considering the age of the hoses, thermostat, and water pump, I would change all of these for new. The Silicone hose kit from HPS is a really good quality set of hoses. Considering that modern coolant is good for 10-years, if you do this you will have another 10-years of not having to worry about the entire cooling system.
No way .... if he keeps going at the same rate he'll have a little over 112k in 10 years . Then maybe I'd think about it , maybe . Working under your theory he should change out the radiator , cooling fans and probably a serpentine belt .
 

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I believe there is a petcock valve on the block for draining. Sometimes I change something before it goes bad (coils at 130,000) but usually I wait until there is an indication an item needs replacing. I did replace the radiator at 162,000 on my 01 as it was corroded badly and leaking. I did put a new water pump on the new engine at 120,000 because it was easy and I am into this for the long term.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Phat has a point. It gets driven once a week or less. Changing the pump and thermostat are a minor deal, but replacing all thiose hoses is a pita. I would love all new hoses, but...

I'm sticking with the fluids for now. I'm gonna swap the steering fluid when I'm done with the coolant.

Carl, I don't see the petcock on the block. Must be hidden behind the exhaust manifold, visible from below the car?

Anyone have a photo or even show the item on a schematic so I can find it?

I have a question that is more technical. If the coolant system has an overflow bottle, and the top hose is above any fluid levels, how come any air in the system doesn't just circulate into the bottle, thus purging any air from the system while operating? Unless you run really low on coolant, so air could be sucked into the bottom return hose, how does it overheat after improperly changed coolant? I'm trying to picture this. Unless you get an air bubble trapped somewhere in the system at a high point, but again shouldn't it just flow into the reservoir eventually? And then you add a bit more coolant to the bottle...
 
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