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I have spent a long time trying to understand how the E brake works and make it work. I finally found a great UTunewhich I give credit to.”Mr2 Roadster/ Spyder Handbrake adjustment- the way it works”.
Procedure
1. Take bottom bolt on rear calipers and swing up.
2. Crank piston in clockwise a couple of turns to make sure it’s free an pull away from rotors.
3. Remove counsel
4 . Back off pull lever nut completely.
5. Start engine and pump brake many, maybe 20 to 30 times. You will see the equalizer bar center itself with every pump.
6. Pump until the bar is equalized on both cables. When straight across keep Brake pedal down. Keep pressure on brake pedal.
7. With foot on brake, tighten handle cable adjustment to 5 clicks with fairly strong pull.
8. Now the brake works very , very good.

Once you realize the adjustment at the caliper is by pumping the brake with engine running, it all makes sense. I have all the shop manuals, have followed, all they say, and have never had a working E brake. The E Brake on the Spyder is as good as any car I have seen. Can’t move car.
 

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Thanks, I will have to try this. Both my spyders have had poop e-bakes. I want to be able to lock of the rears when I want.
 

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I have spent a long time trying to understand how the E brake works and make it work. I finally found a great UTunewhich I give credit to.”Mr2 Roadster/ Spyder Handbrake adjustment- the way it works”.
Procedure
1. Take bottom bolt on rear calipers and swing up.
2. Crank piston in clockwise a couple of turns to make sure it’s free an pull away from rotors.
3. Remove counsel
4 . Back off pull lever nut completely.
5. Start engine and pump brake many, maybe 20 to 30 times. You will see the equalizer bar center itself with every pump.
6. Pump until the bar is equalized on both cables. When straight across keep Brake pedal down. Keep pressure on brake pedal.
7. With foot on brake, tighten handle cable adjustment to 5 clicks with fairly strong pull.
8. Now the brake works very , very good.

Once you realize the adjustment at the caliper is by pumping the brake with engine running, it all makes sense. I have all the shop manuals, have followed, all they say, and have never had a working E brake. The E Brake on the Spyder is as good as any car I have seen. Can’t move car.
Removing the console is a pain because access to the screws are hard to get at with the seats installed.
There is a better way with using a quarter inch ratchet, extension and 10mm socket. Just feel around with your fingers by the handle for the nut and then position the socket and undo the nut. Once that is done you will notice that pumping the hand brake will be loose. Tighten the nut then pump the handle and it should reset.

I have advised people on this countless number of times here and I usually bring a ratchet with me to meets to fix everyones parking brakes in less than two minutes so they lock up tight.

You need to do this every time you do a rear brake service not just on this car but on many vehicles as they have a reset system. You can get away with it if both pads wore evenly but that is not always the case.
 

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Okay so I did this but I still feel that my equalizer isn’t centering itself and one of my wheels is still holding tighter then the other when I try to spin it I don’t know what to do I’ve don’t this a handful of times now.
 

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MR-2 ZZW30 2001 RHD
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The adjustment is all inside the caliper and works when hydraulic brake pressure is applied.
If you cables move freely, it is most likely a problem with the caliper.

I fully rebuilt my calipers and the handbrake mechanism is very susceptible to rust, as water can get into the area where the cam sits in the caliper when the seals are compromised.
I could visually see this problem as the cams would not rotate freely inside the caliper. One caliper had the cam get stuck early in the stroke causing the equalizer to go sideways and the handbrake to only work on one side of the car.
 

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The adjustment is all inside the caliper and works when hydraulic brake pressure is applied.
If you cables move freely, it is most likely a problem with the caliper.

I fully rebuilt my calipers and the handbrake mechanism is very susceptible to rust, as water can get into the area where the cam sits in the caliper when the seals are compromised.
I could visually see this problem as the cams would not rotate freely inside the caliper. One caliper had the cam get stuck early in the stroke causing the equalizer to go sideways and the handbrake to only work on one side of the car.
Thank you I’ll definitely give this a try and look it over. When I was looking at it it felt like the lever moved freely but it felt like the spring wasn’t returning it. Ill try adjusting it again and see what happens thank you for the help I appreciate it all
 

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MR-2 ZZW30 2001 RHD
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Thank you I’ll definitely give this a try and look it over. When I was looking at it it felt like the lever moved freely but it felt like the spring wasn’t returning it. Ill try adjusting it again and see what happens thank you for the help I appreciate it all
The lever on the caliper operates the cam, it needs to return fully for the adjustment to work properly.
The lever not returning could either be the caliper or the cable, disconnect the cable to diagnose.
Without cable attached, it should return easily back to the stop.
If the lever does not return after disconnecting the cable, you have a problem with the caliper (most likely rust inside the caliper).
 

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Working through the handbrake slot without removing the console is easy. Two things to pay attention to. First is that the adjustment is or should be double nutted. Use a deep 10mm socket. You may have to remove the top nut to best make the adjustment. Although you can simply loosen the top nut enough that you can the nuts to align, make the adjustment then carefully tighten down the top nut without affecting the lower nut. If you remove, use something to hold the nut (grease, gum, whatever your poison) so you don't loose it in the console. Second thing to be careful of is that you are going through the slot which is bordered by rubber. That rubber is easy to injure by pulling it off the console housing. So, be gentle. (Repair is alcohol and hot glue.)
 
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