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2003 Toyota MR2 Spyder 2.0L Stroker
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It was about halfwY thru the video. I gave it two cranks and she wouldnt fire. I ll try and get a better clip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got a better clip tonight but having trouble uploading it. I checked the spark plug coils and one doesnt feel like its gripping the spark plug. I dont even have to pop it off. It just easily comes off. I'll try to upload the video again tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Still need help...better video and audio I hope

I double checked the wiring. Loosened up the fuel rail and definetly had fuel pressure. I still need to check for spark. I dont know how to check for spark on our cars or the proper way to do it. I have to order a new battery thats for sure. I hooked up the OBD to see if any codes would pop up, unlikely since the motor hasnt run. I got none. Anything specifically to look for when looking at the data?

I am using the stock airbox from the 1zz, swap harness, celica 2000 or 2001 ECU cant recall.

http://s266.photobucket.com/albums/ii243/triz369/?action=view&current=VIDEO0037.mp4

Towards the end you can hear the battery dieing out. The only difference between video 1 and 2 was that I had the battery on a jumper so it cranked quicker but still was sounding the same and still didnt fire.
 

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Vatik ended up with a bad Swap Harness.. we tested it out by removing it and putting in the 1ZZ ECU to fire it.. and it lit off..

Take the Swap harness out, and plug in the 1ZZ ECU and see if she fires on the 1ZZ ECU.. if it does not.. then look at the RPM Counter on the OBD2.. do you have revs counting and Air Flow?.. while cranking..

Did you plug in the Crank Position Sensor behind the A/C Compressor?.. if you did not.. then it will not see the Engine Turning, and wont send spark or fuel..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I did see RPMs in the 100 range. I cant recall exactly what the AFR were I think .40 and would go up and down during cranking. Im 99 percent everything is plugged since I did it while it was on the stand. I did read Vatiks thread and that was my next step tomorrow am after a random text this am..haha. Hoping its that simple.
 

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If the RPMs were showing IN THE OBD2, then the Crank Sensor is plugged in.

I have no Idea where that Swap Harness went that Vatik had.. ( should have been burned!! ) his would not power the coils..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If the RPMs were showing IN THE OBD2, then the Crank Sensor is plugged in.

I have no Idea where that Swap Harness went that Vatik had.. ( should have been burned!! ) his would not power the coils..

Cap
I will definetly switch the ECU tomorrow. Keeping my fingers crossed that its the harness. I only pulled one of the plugs and it was hard to tell if it fired since they are new. I almost want to run to the warehouse and check. I'll keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did the ECU swap and still no go. I'm starting to think more and more there is a problem with the spark plugs. I tossed out the originals so I couldnt test out my theory. After talking with Cap and telling him about the coil packs feeling like they werent grasping the spark plugs. I went on the Advance Auto Website and looking at spark plugs. Some say Varies others say Exact. I have a set of Laser series NGK's rated for "performance" those fitments say Varies. So I got to thinking possibly the Coilpack is not making contact with the spark plug because the spark plug is to short! Tomorrow Im off to Advance and taking out a plug to measure with a regular OEM plug. Will keep you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Found the original plugs and cleaned them up and still. I'm now starting to think CPS. Reading a few threads on here and on the web and very similar issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How about something simple like, pull one of the coils and hook it to a plug. Lay the plug on top of the engine. Have an assistant crank it. Is there spark?
Did that. They sparked. They had to be shovec in pretty good though.
 

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You are saying it has spark..

You think it has fuel in the Rail, and is likely getting fuel through the injectors..

Does it have compression?.. is there a chance that the Valves are rusty from sitting, and it has no compression?..

Do a compression Check.. Make sure you have a good battery..

The big Furball CPS problem that I'm aware of was Jim had a Swap done, and the CPS wires were pinched behind the A/C bracketts.. causing irratic readings..

I think you can swap CPS sensor from the 1ZZ.. from my reading they are the same..

If the ECU does not have 10 VColts during cranking, it might not fire.. so make sure the battery is good..
Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You are saying it has spark..

You think it has fuel in the Rail, and is likely getting fuel through the injectors..

Does it have compression?.. is there a chance that the Valves are rusty from sitting, and it has no compression?..

Do a compression Check.. Make sure you have a good battery..

The big Furball CPS problem that I'm aware of was Jim had a Swap done, and the CPS wires were pinched behind the A/C bracketts.. causing irratic readings..

I think you can swap CPS sensor from the 1ZZ.. from my reading they are the same..

If the ECU does not have 10 VColts during cranking, it might not fire.. so make sure the battery is good..
Cap
Valve were good, the head was removed and the machine shop cleaned up the valves when they installed the springs. The valves were actually pretty clean to begin with with the exception of a bit of carbon buildup. The Crankshaft Postion Sensor read at 2.180 which I believe was within spec. Going to recheck compression and but a bigger batttery. I was using a small Deka battery (new) but with all this cranking I'm going to go buy a regular battery (I can always use it in the Hyundai afterwards.)
 

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I had forgotten.. this motor has never run..

Could be a timing issue with the cams.. Compression pressure should tell..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just got in I'm almost 90 percent sure now that its the timing Cap. Compression was good though. 205 pretty much across the board except for I believe was cylinder 2 which was about 10 percent lower.

I ran out to get a bigger battery even though the Deka was new. Talking with Tbone and Cap during the last couple of days, I just felt like the Deka was not giving it its all. Once I popped in the larger battery it cranked. But too fast. Almost making it obvious that the issue was timing. Sooooooo I stood the rest of the night looking at it and cussing knowing what has to be done. If anyone has an easier way please share.
 

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I was going to say, a long time ago when i put my first 2ZZ together I had the cams misaligned and it played hell with my trying it get it start. Pull your valve cover and check your cam timing and make sure its dead on. After that, its time go wire by wire and make sure your harness isnt missing that one little thing.
 

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Just a long shot trying to draw from memory of things I've read a couple of times over the years re similar problems getting a recent engine install to fire: there's a short grounding wire coming off the head (area) on the firewall side behind cylinder #1 (easy to spot with the engine cover open if it's hooked up), but IIRC, it provides the return circuit through ground for the injectors. Might be worth checking.
 

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I was going to say, a long time ago when i put my first 2ZZ together I had the cams misaligned and it played hell with my trying it get it start. Pull your valve cover and check your cam timing and make sure its dead on. After that, its time go wire by wire and make sure your harness isnt missing that one little thing.
I presume that Triz is saying that there's nothing even resembling the engine trying to fire. Given fuel, spark and compression, there ought to be at least some sort of fire even if the cams are off (a bit). And with all of the cranking he's been doing, I should think there would be ample evidence of fuel (small) if the injectors were squirting.
 
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