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Thanks to Squiggy, his scan confirms that the Monkeywrench installation uses the SPD input for vehicle speed. Connector #IC2 is by the driver's kick panel - which is easier to reach than fishing behind the instrument panel.
Pin #8 is the SPD wire.
Squiggy's scan shows the brake connector hookup at connector S7, pin #1 and #2. Schematic confirms his penciled colors are correct. I've seen the colors change between years, but usually the pin number stays the same.
Squiggys' scan shows the clutch connector hookup at connector C9, pin #1 and #2. Schematic confirms his colors are correct again.
That covers almost all the homework.

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I've got a Sears Cruise Control kit that I bought several years ago (25+?) and is still in it's original box. This is the same unit I originally installed in my Dad's Datsun 510, removed when he sold the car and I then installed in my 78 Celica..

The issue with this kit is that it's vacuum driven, I never thought about the idea of installing the actuator unit in the Frunk! Great idea!

I've been holding off on installing this kit because I'm not sure where to get vacuum from the 1zz, and I'm pretty sure that I won't find it in the Funk :(

Been waiting on the Monkey Wrench kit to come back in stock... going to take a real hard look at this Rostra unit. I'm sure many of you will beat me to it as funds just aren't there at this time, so anyone who does, Please update us on the install! Inquiring minds want to know ;)
 

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@cyclehead as usual you are a waterfall of knowledge and help!! I guess this will be my next project. I tried MWR and my experience with them is not good (seems like I am an isolated case though) so i don't think I would buy anything from them in the future since they were very unresponsive when I tried to get a harness for an old cruise control unit they sold even though I was not asking for anything free so i have a bunch of parts and no harness. Anyway, thank you so much again.
 

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The MWR unit bolts under the dash and ties into the throttle cable there. It is quite clever. I can look to see if I can figure out the name on the company but I was pretty sure it was audiovox. But I would have to check again.
 

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Hood Motor vehicle Trunk Automotive exterior Bumper


Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper
 

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I finally broke down and installed the old Sears cruise control I bought 30 years ago and never opened the box. I mounted the servo in the frunk and tapped the brake booster for vacuum. However, even with the system off, when I connect the vacuum to the servo it floors the gas.

so, I've disconnected the vacuum until I can do some more trouble shooting/research. However, I'll throw it out there....... Anyone have any thoughts??
 

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In another cruise control post, there was mention of adding a vacuum canister, for going up hills...how do these work? is it just to add vacuum capacity? Are there any valves involved in this canister?

did some quick research, yes, there appears that there is a check valve on the input side.
 

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In another cruise control post, there was mention of adding a vacuum canister, for going up hills...how do these work? is it just to add vacuum capacity? Are there any valves involved in this canister?

did some quick research, yes, there appears that there is a check valve on the input side.
Added canister simply adds vacuum capacity. Check valve keeps the vacuum available for the cruise control to use (instead of bleeding back to the engine). A vacuum canister that supports power brake booster has a check valve for the same reason.
 

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The mk1 cruise control operated on vacuum with an electric pump to assist it. I always though that was pretty nutty. At that point, why not just use an electric actuator?
 

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I wired up a factory celica cruise control in my 2zz swapped spyder. Was a pain in the ass.


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I wired up a factory celica cruise control in my 2zz swapped spyder. Was a pain in the ass.
I did the same in 2GR swap. I only had to add one wire from dashboard to engine bay. Of course it needed clutch disable switch etc. but all the wires were already in place from clock spring to the kick panel.
 

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I did the same in 2GR swap. I only had to add one wire from dashboard to engine bay. Of course it needed clutch disable switch etc. but all the wires were already in place from clock spring to the kick panel.
Was the 2gr cable or throttle by wire?

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