MR2 SpyderChat banner

261 - 280 of 284 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
that looks heaps better... did you use a blow torch and a hammer??? i drove mine today for the first time, and whilst i like the shifting feel (nice and tight)... the position of the shifter is still off to me... shifting into 3rd sometimes feels like i'm going into 5th... i'd be willing to mod the shifter the same...
No hammer. Blowtorch and a pair of pipe wrenches for leverage
If you have a solidly mounted vise, you'll only need one. Mount the shifter by clamping the shaft near the ball pivot, Blowtorch under the stopper flange till it's a red glowing color, don't let it get orange hot, then put the pipe wrench directly above the heated area and bend. Since the metal is weakest at the red hot area, that's where it will bend. Bend the upper gooseneck bend to about 95% of the bottom shaft axis since the shifter actually sits at an angle of about 2 degrees left from straight up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
^No hammer needed, just heat up enough so you can bend it. Just be careful since the heat might have traveled. (I forgot to cool it like refirendum did)

At any rate also heated and bent mine like refirendum did. Thanks again too.





 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
^No hammer needed, just heat up enough so you can bend it. Just be careful since the heat might have traveled. (I forgot to cool it like refirendum did)

At any rate also heated and bent mine like refirendum did. Thanks again too.





i'm sure typing "refirendum" is tiring. lol "refi" is more than enough.

Few things of note, the bend point you used is closer to the pivot ball, and the ball will soak up a lot of heat. i was personally paranoid about the heat affecting the little plastic ball cups on the shifter, which is why i went with a gooseneck, but it seems my fears are unfounded as the ball soaked up enough of the heat to protect the cups.

as for heat travel distance, it's not a big issue since the structure of stainless doesn't begin significantly changing its temper until the metal gets to be heated to a decidedly orange color. your shaft will be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,042 Posts
I installed mine last Friday. I figured I would try it as is before bending it a bit to the left. I don't really mind the current placement of the knob but will probably bend it next month. I find the shift feeling to be tighter as well as shorter with a bit more effort. No issues and it seems to be a high quality product. It would have been excellent if the knob was keep in the OEM placement for left hand drive cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Installed, used for a while. Cutting the cage was less than fun (no power tools, broke two scrollsaws, wound up with a utility knife, a hammer, and a couple very....slow....files). Upgrading from the stock cage bushings took a lot of the slop out of the mechanism--now it grinds into third but I have spherical PFTE bearings for next weekend to fix the rest of the problem.

Shift effort is definitely increased. Throw is definitely shorter. Still feels like I'm fighting it but that's probably the transmission-end bearings causing grief. (Sprayed everything down like crazy up front with TriFlow in the absence of any 'real' grease, super easy to throw around when the engine is off.) I'll probably update this in a couple weeks when I get around to that.

As a big guy who shouldn't even fit in the first place I kind of like the slight outward bend. Means I punch myself in the leg less for first and second.

Seems like a pretty high-quality piece and a nice knob. Big gripe--the instructions are NOT linked to on the website that I could find. Putting a link to these on the product page would've been great. The scanned QR code with the shifter goes to an otherwise undocumented PDF...so don't just crumple and toss it or it's HELL trying to get it to read.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
Shift effort is definitely increased. Throw is definitely shorter. Still feels like I'm fighting it but that's probably the transmission-end bearings causing grief. (Sprayed everything down like crazy up front with TriFlow in the absence of any 'real' grease, super easy to throw around when the engine is off.) I'll probably update this in a couple weeks when I get around to that.
Old solid brass cable bushings, long since dry, out. New PFTE spherical bushings in. HOLY CRAP THIS SHIFTER IS WAY GREATER NOW.

The effort is actually less than (admittedly in poor condition) stock. Throws are very short, very precise. Clutch engagement even seems quicker. It's possible to shift MUCH faster like this. Pricey, but a good use of funds for a solid product that makes a nice difference in something that's used all drive, every drive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,042 Posts
I finally bent mine at the current bend moving the top to the left about 3/4". I also ground off most of the boot ring. I use a much smaller boot made by Cyclehead. Stainless steel doesn't transmit heat very well but I removed the top nylon cap anyway. I like the tighter shifting and am using a heim joint style bushing in the rear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
I would love to get one of these, but I am kinda glad that they are almost out of stock. This way if they do a group buy for a second run maybe we could request that second "gooseneck" bend. I have neither the tools nor skill to do it myself and the real TRD one is way too expensive. I emailed SuperKlasse about this possibility but he never responded back so I guess there might not be a second run.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,042 Posts
As received the shifter works fine, I just prefer a different esthetic. I would get some 8mm push on nuts before installation. I like the tightness of the push nut and was able to reuse it during the first removal, second time I used a new push nut.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I have also installed the short shifter and used the installguide.
While installing I mention that step 12 in the guide isn't clear enough, can give misunderstandings. I send my TIP and comments to SuperKlasse and they confirm, also will update the guide....but when I look I see no changes? Hereby below my TIP and comments so you can read and try, hopefully it helps you while installing.....Success.

SuperKlasse support,

I have a better workaround considering this install...regarding step 12, just for really easy mounting

https://super-klasse.com/pages/superklasse-cs-short-stroke-shifter-install-guide-spyder

You can replace step 12 with;
When you place the push-nut on front of a socket wrench 10, then you can slide it gently with a little push on the bolt.
And, please replace the first picture after step 12 it gives a wrong perception, I mention the placement of the spring. In this way the spring does not function as designed. ;-)

You can find me on Instagram @myzzw30
 
261 - 280 of 284 Posts
Top