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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I thought it's about time I started a build thread for my Spyder. I've been around for almost a year, work on it more consistently now, got the K24 swap mostly done, and want to share some of the things I experienced throughout.

When the pandemic hit, I was working off and on from home and needed something to keep me busy. I have a Celica GT-Four CS but it's pretty much built with some electrical gremlins to chase down, no fun. I started researching mid engine cars and immediately decided on a Boxster. After lots of research, pricing and digging, I decided I didn't want the cost that comes with engine problems so I kept looking. Finally I came across the MR-S and swaps.

After finding an example that was...deserted (Nevada) I decided to buy it and k swap it. Previous owner started an engine swap but couldn't finish, dropped it off at a mechanic, and never returned. I test drove it, it ran like crap but the body looked straight. I agreed to buy itif the mechanic got the title, which he did. When I returned to pick it up, the mechanic went as far as replacing O2 sensors so I could drive it home, which was nice of him.

On the way home, I realized 4th gear was shot, and I had to hold it in 5th, no big deal since I planned to swap it anyway. I fixed some CEL codes but it still bogged a little at 6k...again no big deal. I was still able to putt around my area with no issues.

Initial impressions, I'm a little big for the car. I'm 6' tall, most of my height is in my legs. My knees dig into the steering wheel when braking and clutching. When my knees aren't pinching the wheel, the handling is amazing, it turns on a dime. The suspension looks to be stock with the exception of all Megan links/arms in the rear. Overall, very excited about my new toy and the future mods.

 

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Great find. Congrats on great idea of k swap. I am having mine done now--- but 10000% I am NOT abandoning my car lol. Gl on project

Ps: I am 6.4= even worse for me, but still love the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Thanks 03MRS! For me it's the best option. I witnessed a few 2ZZ failures in the early 2000s and although they were abused, the Hondas they were racing held up. I did try to get my hands on a Corolla XRS.

With no title in hand, I focused on cleaning the car inside out. I pulled the seats out and vacuumed/shampooed the carpets, cleaned and swapped the seats, scrubbed the top 3x til it was black again, and sanded that uneven yellow paint down to a flat yellow.



After a little research, I tackled the rear 5 lug conversion. What I found while doing the ZZ Celica swap was the NA MR2 rear rotor was almost a perfect fit. I took it to a machine shop and had them drill a 5x100 bolt pattern. I the hat height on the 91/92 NA MR2 is taller, so I had to trim down the diameter of a 3mm spacer to fit inside the rotor. This gave me the offset for the pads to just about evenly make contact with the rotor.


The spacer is actually covering the 5x100 holes in this pic.

Finished product


I was so excited it worked that I never thought to look to see if the MR2 rear hub would fit the Celica bearing. This is would be an easy solution for those wanting to go 5x114.3 if it works, I don't know... I have 5x100 Enkei Kojins all over the place so I'll stick to 5x100!

Eventually I want to do a widebody setup but part of me only want the rear flared like a 993 turbo. I get the front is flared slightly, but I want to try it and if the handling is crap, I'd flare the fronts as well.

I did try but I didn't use enough layers so when I took it the fiberglass off, the form was lost so I scrapped this project. It would've taken too much time to get the bulges and flares right. I'll buy bolt-ons and modify to my liking.


 

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Discussion Starter #5
nice car!! did you get a good deal out of it?
$2000, running, looks like minor accident on the driver side...door and rear bumper replaced. I'd say pretty good deal!
 

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$2000, running, looks like minor accident on the driver side...door and rear bumper replaced. I'd say pretty good deal!
Indeed! running and with an almost perfect body, it is a great deal!! congrats on the car!! I got some spare parts from mine in case you want to keep the inside OEM, just pvt mgs me for the list if interested
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Once I got the title, I was ready to drive the car and sort it out for registration. The first thing was to swap out the steering wheel and see if that would give me enough leg clearance and yes, it did!

300mm Sportline Racing steering wheel, suede

No need to lower the seat now.

I decided to get the car registered first, then start the engine swap. After hours of youtube, I was ready to pull the 1zz. Between IG Designs and rarewitit, I was able to drop the 1zz with no problems.

Ordered the K24 and some swap parts from Mitch's Auto Parts.



A friend swapped in a K20 oil pump for me. After much reading, I kinda wish I kept the K24 oil pump. My friend owns a shop, knows a lot about hondas, and recommended the k20 pump and EP3 5 speed since I thought about going turbo. I really wanted the 6 speed for highway driving but I'm guessing that'd be 5% of my driving so I stuck with the 5spd. I took a wire brush and to the k24/ep3 block/tranny, hit it with a couple coats of self-etching primer and some 500° Aluminum paint...came out well. I also took this time to hit the engine bay with scrubbin bubbles. That stuff does wonders on anything that's supposed to be black.




And finally assembled and installed



And for a nice little cherry on top, I saw a thread here with someone using a k series swap header instead of the PPE. Mitch said they're headers are 8 weeks out so I eyeballed the dimensions. I think just about any K24 swap header will fit the Spyder as long as the collector isn't so long it goes past the bumper. To see if this was true, I decided to try the 1320 performance long tube ramhorn 4-2-1 headers and they fit! :LOL: I didn't fit the tubes completely snug so they clear the crossmember. If they leak, I'll have them welded.


and the clearance below...



But I'm gonna need a really good solution to insulate the harness on the right side from the headers.

She cranks and idles fine, but the throttle cable needs adjusting. I gotta fix a drain bolt leak and add fluids...still waiting for intermediate shaft.

Afterwards, I'll detail all the little things I couldn't find here but figured out. I hope to give driving impressions very soon!
 

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Very cool thread!! Love all the pics and detailed descriptions. Can't wait to see how it develops!
 

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Nice progress!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I spent the last few days looking just about anything I can think of over before finally taking her off jack stands and out for a spin. She's bogging down low like I'm hitting fuel cut...maybe 2500rpms and 25% throttle. Once I got back to the garage, the idle was surging. I checked the fuel line and around the injectors, no leaks. I'm running a RSX-S throttle body and with the cable hooked up to the plastic (cruise control?) wheel. I read somewhere this should be fine. According to K-Pro, I'm seeing -5 off throttle and 60 max. A friend said that should be fine and I should be able to drive like that with no problem. Other than chasing down the cause of the bogging, I'm excited to finally get her moving under her own power...and first swap!!!

I also have a coolant leak from one or more of the fittings on the swivel t-stat housing. I did use thread tape on each so I'm really annoyed with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The only thing else I can think of is if someone sold me non type s injectors...or if my spark plugs don't come pre-gapped...
 

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Have you checked afr's? It would show lean if the injectors couldn't keep up, or that map isn't rich enough...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I just ordered the upstream O2 sensor. Friend said I dont need it with K-Pro but everything I could find says otherwise...that the only way you don't need it is if you're tuned on speed density without it.
 

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good answer
 

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I spent the last few days looking just about anything I can think of over before finally taking her off jack stands and out for a spin. She's bogging down low like I'm hitting fuel cut...maybe 2500rpms and 25% throttle. Once I got back to the garage, the idle was surging. I checked the fuel line and around the injectors, no leaks. I'm running a RSX-S throttle body and with the cable hooked up to the plastic (cruise control?) wheel. I read somewhere this should be fine. According to K-Pro, I'm seeing -5 off throttle and 60 max. A friend said that should be fine and I should be able to drive like that with no problem. Other than chasing down the cause of the bogging, I'm excited to finally get her moving under her own power...and first swap!!!

I also have a coolant leak from one or more of the fittings on the swivel t-stat housing. I did use thread tape on each so I'm really annoyed with that.
Nice work! 2 suggestions: To protect wiring from exhaust heat you can use header wrap on the wires; just don't wrap the headers! Second thing is I really don't recommend the swivel stat housing because (at least last time I looked) it doesn't allow you to use a double-poppet thermostat, which is what the engine is supposed to use. A double poppet shuts off the bypass when the stat goes to full open so you can get max coolant flow through the radiator when things are really hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks turbo jimbo!

dblotii, I was trying to figure out if I could find another solution to keep the stock t-stat housing but that dayco hose #72122 doesn't work, too big.

I ordered another oem housing, just gotta find a hose with the right diameter and bends.

For the wires, I went to the local parts store for header wrap and they only had the $60 roll so I improvised...wrapped it with gold tape, then plastic hose which started melting, and again with gold tape. Seems to be holding up now so I'll secure it all with some hose clamps and monitor it.

I also ordered a cheap fan switch with o-ring to see if that fixes the coolant leak as opposed to the AN plug with teflon tape. When I have time, I'll look for a permanent fix for the 1/8 and 3/8 AN plugs just in case they're leaking.
 
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