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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to revise the Detailing 101 article because of all the new advancements which makes detailing easier then it was when the article was first published.

The technique, products and method has changed for the better.
I'm convinced that machine polishing is the only way and I plan to show both methods.

What I would like to know is what you guys would like to see covered or explained and if anyone would like to contribute.
 

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I don't know what was in the old article but if you want to incorporate this somehow I'm sure it would help many out

Any time you get wax onto plastic pieces such as window trim or even the side vents, just take a rag with a little bit of WD40 and it takes the wax away immediately with zero effort and leaves a slight shine that will last a day or so
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't know what was in the old article but if you want to incorporate this somehow I'm sure it would help many out

Any time you get wax onto plastic pieces such as window trim or even the side vents, just take a rag with a little bit of WD40 and it takes the wax away immediately with zero effort and leaves a slight shine that will last a day or so
The kind of waxes or sealants that stain trim should be avoided for that very reason that they are cheap and are more trouble then it's worth to remove.

WD40 should not be used on rubber or plastic under any circumstances. WD-40 is a water displacing and will ruin trim by drying it out.

The best thing to use for plastic and rubber is 303 aerospace for everything or a combo of Honda Shin-Etsu Grease for the rubber weather seals.
 

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I'd love to see a new training thread. I just saw recently that you were using a new product that goes on very thin but leaves a great looking shine. I don't recall the name, but it sounded very interesting. I don't know what I can do to help, but if I can be of help with this project, let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd love to see a new training thread. I just saw recently that you were using a new product that goes on very thin but leaves a great looking shine. I don't recall the name, but it sounded very interesting. I don't know what I can do to help, but if I can be of help with this project, let me know.
Yes the ultima paint guard plus. Great stuff but in my opinion to get the full effect the paint needs to be polished.

It would be good if we can have someone or some people split up interior and top care.
Also leather care for the seats and shampooing of the carpet and seats.

I can then concentrate exclusively on paint care.

This time I am going to feature both Porter Cable and Rotary polishing and combinations of the two.
This should be interesting.
 

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I'm glad your bringing this up again. I was actually looking for the recent thread. Still havent found it. But I was looking for what to put on the rubber around the top and body. Mine looks like carp. I just clay barred my car, polished and waxed it today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm glad your bringing this up again. I was actually looking for the recent thread. Still havent found it. But I was looking for what to put on the rubber around the top and body. Mine looks like carp. I just clay barred my car, polished and waxed it today.
Good to hear how did you polish the paint.
 

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I used my Griots Random Orbital which I really love. I think its a great machine and safe to use. I also used there Machine Polish 3. As I recall saying in the other thread I dont like the Machine Polish 3. I had some very light scratches and they wouldnt come off. I just really want to flush it. I do like there Best of Show Wax. I got the stuff as a kit. But needless to say I'll be buying a better polish. The car still came out great and very smooth. But for me the key was the claybar and the quick detailer. I also did the interior since I had the seats out. I used some Meguiars Low Gloss for the dash and the door panels. I'll try and snap some pics tomorrow while its still clean.
 

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I did some interior work today, rented a rug doctor and gave the sats a once over ('00 cloth seats). As far as a full write up, not much to say to be honest. The seats were left in the car. I put it on the upholstery setting and it worked great and took out some deep stains that were in the seats (especially the passenger seat cushion). Probably the first time they've been washed in 12 years. Took my time going over each seat repeatedly until the water being sucked back into the rug doctor went from dirty brown to clean. Took about an hour in total. This is partly because my seats were filthier than i ever imagined and partly due to my own OCD. Thoroughly go over the seats to vacuum out any excess water before leaving the top down to sun dry. This will prevent uneven drying, which would look like more stains. Wish I had some before and after pictures but its as if the seats were never stained now, not to mention that fresh mountain breeze smell. I would definitely recommend the rug doctor (or similar type machine).

For those wondering, since I know you're on the edge of your seat now, I didn't do anything with the carpet. As a dd, it would be back where it is within a week. I could have used the rug doctor on the carpet...and if I wanted to be extra thorough I would have unbolted the seats to do it. I hope this is somewhat helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I used my Griots Random Orbital which I really love. I think its a great machine and safe to use. I also used there Machine Polish 3. As I recall saying in the other thread I dont like the Machine Polish 3. I had some very light scratches and they wouldnt come off. I just really want to flush it. I do like there Best of Show Wax. I got the stuff as a kit. But needless to say I'll be buying a better polish. The car still came out great and very smooth. But for me the key was the claybar and the quick detailer. I also did the interior since I had the seats out. I used some Meguiars Low Gloss for the dash and the door panels. I'll try and snap some pics tomorrow while its still clean.
If I am not mistaken the Griots random orbital is a PC . Griots has some good stuff but I found their polishes lacking. Try the Optimum spray polish, that will give you good results.
I used the Best of show wax a long time ago and it's good but hard to work for removal. Much better by far is the P21S for both the look and ease of application.

I still have a half a jar of Pinnacle Souverän which I will most likely use just to finish it off this summer. I cant believe the price went up to $100 for a small jar, when I bought it I thought I was insane to pay $55 for the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did some interior work today, rented a rug doctor and gave the sats a once over ('00 cloth seats). As far as a full write up, not much to say to be honest. The seats were left in the car. I put it on the upholstery setting and it worked great and took out some deep stains that were in the seats (especially the passenger seat cushion). Probably the first time they've been washed in 12 years. Took my time going over each seat repeatedly until the water being sucked back into the rug doctor went from dirty brown to clean. Took about an hour in total. This is partly because my seats were filthier than i ever imagined and partly due to my own OCD. Thoroughly go over the seats to vacuum out any excess water before leaving the top down to sun dry. This will prevent uneven drying, which would look like more stains. Wish I had some before and after pictures but its as if the seats were never stained now, not to mention that fresh mountain breeze smell. I would definitely recommend the rug doctor (or similar type machine).

For those wondering, since I know you're on the edge of your seat now, I didn't do anything with the carpet. As a dd, it would be back where it is within a week. I could have used the rug doctor on the carpet...and if I wanted to be extra thorough I would have unbolted the seats to do it. I hope this is somewhat helpful.
The Spyder interior or any convertible interior gets invested with accumulated dirt. I think what you did was quiet effective and I bet it brightened up the interior.
 

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I've always had trouble using the clay bar and maybe that is why it didn't seem to do anything for me. I use the spray generously over a panel and just use the bar up and down up and down then wipe with a microfiber cloth. To me, it appeared that waxing made it look way nicer. My spyder is black, what do you recommend dev? I'm also looking for something to take out what look like light scratches all over the paint.
 

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@Dev: the seats definitely look much nicer, took a few years off their appearance in only an hour

@Pomonified: Clay isn't a substitute for wax. You don't notice too much of a difference because clay is made for just that, taking out the imperfections not readily visible to the naked eye. Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag after you wash and dry the car and see how much rougher it feels as compared to when you are barehanded. If you clay the car then repeat this, it will feel much smoother. The plastic bag only helps amplify the imperfections you feel in the paint, making it more noticeable compared to when you use your bare hand. And remember, wax after claying :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
@Pomonified: Clay isn't a substitute for wax. You don't notice too much of a difference because clay is made for just that, taking out the imperfections not readily visible to the naked eye. Put your hand in a plastic sandwich bag after you wash and dry the car and see how much rougher it feels as compared to when you are barehanded. If you clay the car then repeat this, it will feel much smoother. The plastic bag only helps amplify the imperfections you feel in the paint, making it more noticeable compared to when you use your bare hand. And remember, wax after claying :)
That is correct. Clay is the first part of the process of any detail. Traditionally clay is used the the auto body industry to remove over spray.
When using a clay bar one or two passes is more then enough and you don't necessarily need a quick detailer spray, a little Woolite and distilled water is good enough to lubricate the surface.

What clay does is remove containments that accumulate on the service of the paint. Such things as road tar and industrial pollutants.
I usually use the back of my hand to feel the before and after with clay. Clay cleans paint but it is not a substitute for protecting paint or to make it shine and in most cases claying a car without protecting it afterwards is not a good idea.
 

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i have began to experiment with a newer product called IronX... apparently it opens up the paint to release any metal particles and breaks down any rust embedded into the paint... similarly to the way that a claybar would remove these specks, this dissolves it instead... once the weather gets better and i can actually wash the spyder, i'll do a write-up... i can't wait to detail the spyder... with it being a much smaller car and a softtop roof, hopefully i can bang it out in a day vs 2 days on my other cars...

i'd be curious tho, what polish/pad combos work well with Toyota paint... on my onyx black GS (202), M105/205 has always been a good combo as black easily shows swirls... but on the MR2, i havent had a chance yet to test since buying the car... 1D0 hides the swirls well, but i can still see it in the sun... would love something that can make it pop...

look fwd to your writeup dev...
 
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