[Funkycheeze]

Yeah I'm in a similar situation with my Supra - I'd need to go to a larger turbo or better fuel etc. as I'm getting close to my EGT comfort limit, don't want to go richer than 11:1, and can't really get better intercooling without a lot of work (or water/meth injection). But that all being said I don't need more power. I've got 475 wheel in a car weighing 2900 lb, I can't even use full boost until 3rd gear which if you rev it out starts at 110 km/hr!

And it's nice to be able to just use 91 AKI pump gas (93 or 94 on the track) and not need to worry about any other consumables like meth.

 

[Node]

And it's nice to be able to just use 91 AKI pump gas (93 or 94 on the track) and not need to worry about any other consumables like meth.

The pump gas thing is a big deal. That's one of the reasons I take issue with NOS. Meth goes pretty slowly if it is progressive. Honestly I drive my car regularly and only fill every couple of months. It's not like I am going to suddenly run out.

I also know what you mean. With a 0.16 power/weight in your supra I suspect that is QUITE the handful in lower gears. My car spins in 3rd sometimes. That kind of power is just not usable around town. Now, at a track with some decent straights like the back of Road Atlanta..... You better have some great brakes!!

 

[Funkycheeze]

Yeah I usually drive around at 11 psi which is about 360-370 wheel and it's still tons. In 'high boost' mode activated by a switch it runs the same 11 psi in first, 15 or so in second and 18 in 3rd and above to limit the amount of work the traction control needs to do (if I have it turned on). It's actually a 8 setting progressive slip setup which is really ideal.

For me if I can make the power I need with pump gas alone, and have it reliable on the track, that's the ideal.

And yes it has big brakes. Wilwood 4 pot with 12.15 x 1.25" rotors front and 12.12 x 0.81" rear. Plus ducting to the front spindles from the bumper.

 

[Node]

8 setting progressive slip setup which is really ideal.

I need that. What EMS are you running and I assume electronic throttle? I REALLY need boost by gear too.

 

[Funkycheeze]

EMU black. It's actually cable throttle - the traction control is spark cut so you don't want it working too hard, thus the boost by gear. It does do E throttle but the car is old and originally cable throttle so it'd be hard to change and I'd lose cruise control unless I did a lot of work to implement it in the ECU.

 

[Jaggu]

That's not exactly the case. I can make no more power at 10.5:1 than 11.5:1 with more timing in most of the map.

I go back to my point I was making earlier though. A 500HP 2ZZ does not make a whole lot of sense if you are running a C-series transaxle. Seriously, look at what the power to weight would be (if the transaxle didn't explode). That is an insane car. Trust me. IMO it is not worth building the 2ZZ for that kind of power.

Power/Weight LBS
Cayman GTS 4.0 = 0.123
FAT Spyder 2200lbs @ 500 HP = 0.23
Huracan = 0.188

Just imagining this makes my mouth wet. 500hp spyder would outrun almost everything. Except a 500hp Exige

 

[Node]

Just imagining this makes my mouth wet. 500hp spyder would outrun almost everything. Except a 500hp Exige

The suspension design in the MR2 is crap. Sorry to say. I own one and I am telling you it is far from optimal for a performance car. My 3rd generation Honda Prelude that I had in High School had a better design. So, the tires are always working at less than optimal angles to the pavement. Even if you can find a way to keep a transaxle from turning to slush you won't be able to put the power down. There is SO much engineering that goes into cars that can do sub 3 second 0-60 numbers on street tires. Seriously, I have been struggling with traction in the ZZW30 for years and have only made small incremental improvements. Yes, the car is very fast but really only in 3rd gear and higher. It just wont hook any lower. Maybe if I put giant balloon tires on the car it would hook but that would take away from the responsive handing and again make the transmission more likely to explode. This chassis is IDEAL at about 350 HP and that is right at the point where reliability ends. So, why spend money to build a 500 HP 2zz. At that point you may as well step over to Honda honestly just for the aftermarket transmission support. There are zero sprung hub twin disc clutch setups for the C series transmission but a mountain on the Honda side. That is what you are going to need to hold that much torque and have a street-able car. Why do you think Lamborghini historically did twins for their street cars? It is certainly not a sales feature, it is just for drivability and holding capacity.

Some may call me a hypocrite for building a stock block 2ZZ for 20 PSI and saying this. But I like the challenge of tuning and I love the sound the 2zz makes way more than a K series. I specifically went the 2ZZ route because of the sound. It is just my preference. If that is not your goal and you really want that stratospheric power to weight the K is better. For 350ish the 2ZZ is best. The car will be crazy fast and the math shows that with a little bit of chassis weight reduction that is roughly equal to modern cars in the mid 500HP range like Porsche, Ferrari, McLaren etc....

 

[Jaggu]

The suspension design in the MR2 is crap. Sorry to say. I own one and I am telling you it is far from optimal for a performance car. My 3rd generation Honda Prelude that I had in High School had a better design. So, the tires are always working at less than optimal angles to the pavement. Even if you can find a way to keep a transaxle from turning to slush you won't be able to put the power down. There is SO much engineering that goes into cars that can do sub 3 second 0-60 numbers on street tires. Seriously, I have been struggling with traction in the ZZW30 for years and have only made small incremental improvements. Yes, the car is very fast but really only in 3rd gear and higher. It just wont hook any lower. Maybe if I put giant balloon tires on the car it would hook but that would take away from the responsive handing and again make the transmission more likely to explode. This chassis is IDEAL at about 350 HP and that is right at the point where reliability ends. So, why spend money to build a 500 HP 2zz. At that point you may as well step over to Honda honestly just for the aftermarket transmission support. There are zero sprung hub twin disc clutch setups for the C series transmission but a mountain on the Honda side. That is what you are going to need to hold that much torque and have a street-able car. Why do you think Lamborghini historically did twins for their street cars? It is certainly not a sales feature, it is just for drivability and holding capacity.

Some may call me a hypocrite for building a stock block 2ZZ for 20 PSI and saying this. But I like the challenge of tuning and I love the sound the 2zz makes way more than a K series. I specifically went the 2ZZ route because of the sound. It is just my preference. If that is not your goal and you really want that stratospheric power to weight the K is better. For 350ish the 2ZZ is best. The car will be crazy fast and the math shows that with a little bit of chassis weight reduction that is roughly equal to modern cars in the mid 500HP range like Porsche, Ferrari, McLaren etc....

Yeayea. I was just dreaming and admiring the insanity. Would probably not be very easy to control all that power in such a light chassis with a rear end that wants to step out at stock power.
I value reliability very high so if i do turbo, it will be conservative. Just more parts to break.
When i pull the engine out to change head gasket i'll try and replace most parts that needs replacing so i dont need to deal with it for a long time.

 

[dblotii]

That's not exactly the case. I can make no more power at 10.5:1 than 11.5:1 with more timing in most of the map.

I go back to my point I was making earlier though. A 500HP 2ZZ does not make a whole lot of sense if you are running a C-series transaxle. Seriously, look at what the power to weight would be (if the transaxle didn't explode). That is an insane car. Trust me. IMO it is not worth building the 2ZZ for that kind of power.

Power/Weight LBS
Cayman GTS 4.0 = 0.123
FAT Spyder 2200lbs @ 500 HP = 0.23
Huracan = 0.188

There is a direct relationship between spark timing and exhaust temp. As you retard from MBT (Minimum spark advance for Best Torque) at a fixed speed and load, exhaust temp goes up. This is basic engine science.

 

[Node]

There is a direct relationship between spark timing and exhaust temp. As you retard from MBT (Minimum spark advance for Best Torque) at a fixed speed and load, exhaust temp goes up. This is basic engine science.

Yes, but my point is that adding fuel does not actually help protect the engine beyond a point.

 

[dblotii]

Yes, but my point is that adding fuel does not actually help protect the engine beyond a point.

Right, but it can reduce knock tendency all the way to almost the smoke point.

 

[Funkycheeze]

Yeah but after a point it's better to run less boost so you can keep the mixture a bit leaner.