Joined
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62 Posts
While in winter storage I lowered my car with Eibach springs and KYB struts, and added CHE swaybars. My goals were slightly lowered stance with increased performance while keeping close to factory ride quality. With 55,000 miles, the stock suspension seemed to be in good working order.
Install-
The springs and struts, with new boots and bumpers were under $500 shipped. Installation was basic, even without a spring compressor (I used a ratchet strap). I reused the top mount with the 3 bolts that hold the top of strut and the associated components. I did not install crash bolts. I centered the 3 stud mount in the middle of the holes and loaded the suspension 1/2 way with a jack under the lower ball joint before torquing the strut to hub bolts.
CHE sways and new stock replacement endlinks were under $180 shipped (I could not justify the cost of upgrading to beefy links). Again, install was simple and easily done with the suspension swap. I used the less aggressive setting on the rear bar.
The project was completed in one long day- air tools helped move quickly.
Test drive-
The car handled amazing! Turn in was so sharp and crisp I was taking corners way too tight. The turning of the car now seemed to exceed the movement of the steering wheel. The ride was noticeably firmer, but not unpleasant or uncomfortable. The springs and struts work very well together. Body roll was essentially gone. Exactly what I was looking for- enhanced performance and look without decreased comfort.
I thought about skipping an alignment, until I drove above 80mph- things became very unsettled and twitchy, something was off. The car had never been aligned , and I have no idea what the specs were before beginning but speeds over 100 were rock steady.
Alignment-
I chose a local indy with a great reputation and a brand new Hunter machine, and asked for the owner to perform the work personally. The only adjustments would be toe.
Before- The front and right rear toe were essentially nil, and the left rear was way off at .50. I have no idea why the LR was off, and could have been there before, but tire wear was always even.
After- Caster front L/3.3 R/3.3
Camber front L/-.8 R/-1.3
Camber rear L/-1.2 R/-1.7
Toe front L/.07 R/.04 Total toe .11
Toe rear L/.08 R/.1 Total toe .17
Thrust angle -.01 Steer ahead .01
Lowering effect on alignment-
Caster- was unchanged.
Camber- Although my camber was within Toyota spec, I dont know why the right side was about -.5 greater than left.
Toe- Toe in was reduced, needed adjust after lowering.
Conclusion- If I had to do it again, I would install cam crash bolts to equalize L-R camber values, and adjust to -1.0 front and -1.5 rear.
Factory specs (pulled off this site- unknown accuracy)
Caster: 3.13 +/-.75, Left to Right difference .75 max
Front camber: -.78 +/-.75 L-R diff .75 max
Front toe in total: .15 +/-.2
Rear camber: -1.08 +/-.75 L-R diff .75 max
Rear toe in (total): .3 +/-.2
I definitely recommend this set up for an affordable upgrade!
Install-
The springs and struts, with new boots and bumpers were under $500 shipped. Installation was basic, even without a spring compressor (I used a ratchet strap). I reused the top mount with the 3 bolts that hold the top of strut and the associated components. I did not install crash bolts. I centered the 3 stud mount in the middle of the holes and loaded the suspension 1/2 way with a jack under the lower ball joint before torquing the strut to hub bolts.
CHE sways and new stock replacement endlinks were under $180 shipped (I could not justify the cost of upgrading to beefy links). Again, install was simple and easily done with the suspension swap. I used the less aggressive setting on the rear bar.
The project was completed in one long day- air tools helped move quickly.
Test drive-
The car handled amazing! Turn in was so sharp and crisp I was taking corners way too tight. The turning of the car now seemed to exceed the movement of the steering wheel. The ride was noticeably firmer, but not unpleasant or uncomfortable. The springs and struts work very well together. Body roll was essentially gone. Exactly what I was looking for- enhanced performance and look without decreased comfort.
I thought about skipping an alignment, until I drove above 80mph- things became very unsettled and twitchy, something was off. The car had never been aligned , and I have no idea what the specs were before beginning but speeds over 100 were rock steady.
Alignment-
I chose a local indy with a great reputation and a brand new Hunter machine, and asked for the owner to perform the work personally. The only adjustments would be toe.
Before- The front and right rear toe were essentially nil, and the left rear was way off at .50. I have no idea why the LR was off, and could have been there before, but tire wear was always even.
After- Caster front L/3.3 R/3.3
Camber front L/-.8 R/-1.3
Camber rear L/-1.2 R/-1.7
Toe front L/.07 R/.04 Total toe .11
Toe rear L/.08 R/.1 Total toe .17
Thrust angle -.01 Steer ahead .01
Lowering effect on alignment-
Caster- was unchanged.
Camber- Although my camber was within Toyota spec, I dont know why the right side was about -.5 greater than left.
Toe- Toe in was reduced, needed adjust after lowering.
Conclusion- If I had to do it again, I would install cam crash bolts to equalize L-R camber values, and adjust to -1.0 front and -1.5 rear.
Factory specs (pulled off this site- unknown accuracy)
Caster: 3.13 +/-.75, Left to Right difference .75 max
Front camber: -.78 +/-.75 L-R diff .75 max
Front toe in total: .15 +/-.2
Rear camber: -1.08 +/-.75 L-R diff .75 max
Rear toe in (total): .3 +/-.2
I definitely recommend this set up for an affordable upgrade!
