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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I cannot find (if I even created one) the thread I had started to ask questions about the overall 2zz swap. So I am going to bookmark this one so I can refer back as it gets burried and bring up new questions etc.


8/27 - Question about the 2zz Oil Pan: Is it the same as the 1zz (in terms of depth). I just modified my 1zz dipstick to fit and I was very suprised to see that it was reading full. We had drained the oil (im pretty sure) prior to me picking up the engine. I know they sell a modified dipstick tube, but was the plunger/insert modified too? I may have to do some more digging here on my own, but asking is always helpful too.

Throttle cable retainer: The engine I had was Drive By Wire (DBW) so there was no cable retainer at the throttle body. I assume just picking up one from a 2zz that had a cable, drilling/tapping and installing is the best way to go. Thoughts?
 

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The depth of both oil pans should be the same. The problem is the modified dipstick tube is slightly off.
Contact serinaj10 she maybe still selling the shorter dipstick that is made for the 2zz.

The 1zz oil pan will have to be notched slightly on the baffle so that the oil pickup tube neck has some clearance but apart from that it should work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The depth of both oil pans should be the same. The problem is the modified dipstick tube is slightly off.
Contact serinaj10 she maybe still selling the shorter dipstick that is made for the 2zz.

The 1zz oil pan will have to be notched slightly on the baffle so that the oil pickup tube neck has some clearance but apart from that it should work.
I dont quite understand. I have a stock 1zz dipstick tube, that I myself bent and modified to route to the proper side of the engine for easy access to check oil. If the depth of the pans are the same, I must just have 4 quarts of oil in the pan. The tube I used should read correctly, that is unless the access port for the tube is lower...
 

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I dont quite understand. I have a stock 1zz dipstick tube, that I myself bent and modified to route to the proper side of the engine for easy access to check oil. If the depth of the pans are the same, I must just have 4 quarts of oil in the pan. The tube I used should read correctly, that is unless the access port for the tube is lower...
It could be. I am going on the standard 2zz swap with the swap parts. If you are modifying your own parts you may discover differences for which not many people know.

I do know that David Hawkins measured out the difference between the two engines in regard to the where the dipstick sits and has noted the variation. I have taken those measurements and told Serena what they were and she made a shorter dipstick to work with the swap.
I think at this point you need to do a search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I will be swapping tomorrow. I have everything I should need to do so, and have quite a few tips. That said, anything I should know that would make my life easier? A good example was to hang the AC compressor, and not disconnect lines, reattach once the 2zz is in.
 

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Another good tip is don't break into the clutch line. Just remove the slave cyliner and hang the mount by the line. No clutch bleeding necessary. It is a pita.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Few snags so she is not exactly in yet.

Few thoughts on the exhaust:

  • Any concern with not bolting the bottom of the manifold to the block like the 1zz che header? This thing seems solid enough...
  • The mating flange on the DP is solid and flat. The Team Moon exhaust has a flared flange. I think I have two options. 1. Weld the TM flange on and trim to make a mating flange using the flat gasket. 2. Use a flared flange gasket to mate the two. Thoughts?
 

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[*]Any concern with not bolting the bottom of the manifold to the block like the 1zz che header? This thing seems solid enough...
Keep in mind that the engine rocks when you're accelerating or trailing throttle. That causes the exhaust system to flex. If the manifold isn't secured to the block at the bottom, most of the flexing will occur in the manifold. Eventually it will fail due to metal fatigue. Secure the manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I am having a very hard time removing the LH Drive shaft. I disconnected all of the control arms, loosened the shock bolts and am using a brass bar to try and pound out the shaft at the trans mating end per the service manual. This thing is not moving. Any tips?
 

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I dont pull the axle from the tranny on that side I leave it in and just remove all suspension pieces and pull the axle out of the hub. Thats just my preference it can be done many ways I find it easiest to do it this way again thats just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I dont pull the axle from the tranny on that side I leave it in and just remove all suspension pieces and pull the axle out of the hub. Thats just my preference it can be done many ways I find it easiest to do it this way again thats just my opinion.
Well, I am replacing the trans with a 6 speed, so I will need to remove it at somepoint. Also it would be easier to remove the engine/trans if it was not attached.
 

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So I am having a very hard time removing the LH Drive shaft. I disconnected all of the control arms, loosened the shock bolts and am using a brass bar to try and pound out the shaft at the trans mating end per the service manual. This thing is not moving. Any tips?
This is a pita. I did it by getting a pickle fork and a big hammer. Tap on the little ridges found on the "tulip". Whack, turn, repeat. There is a little clip that holds it inside the transmission. Once you get it past that, the driveshaft will pull right out.

As far as the header bracket goes:

The che header will crack under stress if you don't secure it to the block. It may take a while, but I've seen it with my own two eyes.
 

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1 is a circuit for the coolant bottle on the lotus. You can simply plug it off. The spyder has a nipple on the main radiator hose rather than this one.

2 is a heater circuit for the throttle body. keeps it warm so it doesn't ice and get as much oil/sludge residue building up over time from the pcv. Plug it for best performance.

3 it is a vacuume line for the flapper door in the stock 2zz air box. Plug it.

The one on top headed away from the pic also needs to be changed. It needs to head toward the throttle body side of the motor. It is a vacuum source for the charcoal canister. (lotus's canister is located in front of the alternator in the elise. ours is in the cabin above the fuel tank.)
 

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that long hose goes to the coolant resivoir on the celica. you can just plug it in the spyder
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Having issues with reinstalling the ac compressor. I left it attached per a recommendation and probably should have taken a picture before disconnecting it. I cannot seem to figure out how to twist, turn, route the hoses so that they don't kink. I have the manual, but there is no picture that helps =(

Looking for a picture of the AC compressor and its hoses so I can figure out out to route it.

Thanks all!
 
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