The library is your friend...

http://spyderchat.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php...light=trunk+lid

 

Originally posted by ispeed
I have a 00 spyder and the engine lid or hood whatever you want to call it won't open at all. I think the cable is broken. I can pull the release lever and it won't make a sound.

My question is ... how do I open the darn thing. I thought I remembered someone giving instructions of using a screwdriver and reaching in someplace to release the lock ... but a search produced nothing. maybe it was the old board. :?

Anyway ... does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the thing open without damaging the car?

Thanks!

This usually occurs because the cable stretched. Have someone push down on the center of the trunk while you pull the lever, and tell them to lift before you let go.

Sometimes that does it.

 

there is a TSB for it...I put the link in the library for others who need it

 

uhm ... cable is broken so pushing down, pulling up, whatever you want to do won't help. I've tried all that.

I know and saw the Library info, but it does not give any info on how to open the lid. Yeah that is a great picture, but no part numbers or info on what to do if the cable is actually broken.

I know there is a TSB out for it as well. Took it to the Toyota dealership this morning ... out of warranty. They wanted $150 for parts :roll: plus labor. This is the only toyota dealership within 60 miles. I said I would fix it myself and drove home.

Now back to the orginal question ...

Any ideas on how to get the lid open with the cable detached? The heat shields are still in place ie. over the muffler with makes in nearly impossible to get to the lach from below ... water drain under lid vents still in place making it nearly impossible to reach from the top.

Any ideas?

 

pull the plastic out of the small vent -- reach in and work the latch with your hand -- when you get it open get a wire cutter and cut the cable as far from the latch as you can -- pull off the sheath -- now when you want to open the hood reah in the hole and grab the cable and pull -- works til you get around to putting a new cable in

 

Man that is tough to get to with all that in place. I had the drip pan out so I could reach in with a screw driver and pop the latch. A long skinny screwdriver if you can see the latch should do it. I "think" you may be able to sacrifice a screwdriver by bending it up to fit in the hood opening between the hood and drip tray and pop the latch.

As far as fixing it after you get it open the cable can be repaired with a cable clamp. I used a brass one from the Help section of your local parts house. Snip the little ball off if the cable is stretched or clamp it to what is left of the cable (assuming it broke at the end). If not a cable and a latch will be 150.00 easy. The latch needs to be changed to the updated model because the old model gets harder and hearder because it is wearing out.

 

Well it's open. I took ex's advise and removed the upper plastic grille. Instead of immediately cutting the cable though ... I used a ratchet and a 10" extension to remove the 2 bolts attaching the lock to the cross brace. I then just lifted the lid up, and took a screwdriver to manually release the latch. I found out that the actual cable was not broken, but the plastic sleeve had pulled out of the metal fastener at the attachment on the lock mechanism itself. Basically the cable would not pull at all on the lock release.

I have a new cable and a new lock mechanism coming from this website ... alot cheaper that the dealer.

http://www.toyotaandlexusparts.com/

with the new lock mechanism being like $58.

part numbers for anyone needing them are:
69350-17051 -- new lock mech
69307-17090 -- new cable

Thanks for all the help!

 

Originally posted by exboyracer
pull the plastic out of the small vent -- reach in and work the latch with your hand -- when you get it open get a wire cutter and cut the cable as far from the latch as you can -- pull off the sheath -- now when you want to open the hood reah in the hole and grab the cable and pull -- works til you get around to putting a new cable in

I dropped this in my post in the library if that is alright Ray.

 

how do you all get that grill off?

 

It pops right off. It has little tabs on it on the grill. Just feel around. once the grill is off you cna reach inside and pull on the cable to open the lid.

 

A TSB doesn't expire like a warranty. They are trying to pull a fast one on you. Go back and explain to them that it's not a warranty issue.

In fact, here is the TSB in question:
BO021-01 Issued on - SEP 01, 2000

I'd talk to them again, show them the code and if they don't take it then, talk to a service manager, if not then, talk to the general manager.

 

Originally posted by Samurai
It pops right off. It has little tabs on it on the grill. Just feel around. once the grill is off you cna reach inside and pull on the cable to open the lid.

right.... the end tabs dont seem to let the thing budge though.

 

Originally posted by NM369
A TSB doesn't expire like a warranty. They are trying to pull a fast one on you. Go back and explain to them that it's not a warranty issue.

In fact, here is the TSB in question:
BO021-01 Issued on - SEP 01, 2000

I'd talk to them again, show them the code and if they don't take it then, talk to a service manager, if not then, talk to the general manager.

so are you implying that they should fix it for free? what are you saying?

 

Originally posted by NM369
A TSB doesn't expire like a warranty. They are trying to pull a fast one on you. Go back and explain to them that it's not a warranty issue.

In fact, here is the TSB in question:
BO021-01 Issued on - SEP 01, 2000

I'd talk to them again, show them the code and if they don't take it then, talk to a service manager, if not then, talk to the general manager.

That TSB says "This repair is covered under the Toyota Basic Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 36 months or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicles in-service date."

 

does this warrenty limitation not apply on more serious car issues... such as pre cat faliure or if a truck hits you from the back?

you know 36 months frm when the car was in service... imporant if you car was bought used.

 

TSBs expire along with the warranty..........they'll still do the job, but it's coming out of your pocket........

kev

 

Engine Lid Won't Open

Originally posted by NM369
A TSB doesn't expire like a warranty. They are trying to pull a fast one on you. Go back and explain to them that it's not a warranty issue.

In fact, here is the TSB in question:
BO021-01 Issued on - SEP 01, 2000

I'd talk to them again, show them the code and if they don't take it then, talk to a service manager, if not then, talk to the general manager.

I took my 01 Spyder in for service today and got a call from the service manager telling me they couldn't get the engine lid to open. He then went on to explain to me they didn't know what to do. :!: According to this post, because there is a TSB on this, I shouldn't be charged since it's not a warranty issue. However, the TSB says this is only for 36,000/36 months. I'm a bit confused. Should they be charging me for the "inspection" and repair of this? Obviously I'm way over the 36/36 limit.

Plus, why do I have to tell a dealership how to deal with something they should have known to look up?! Ugh.

I hope I am posting in the correct forum. Thank you! This site has always been so helpful.

 

i have the same problem...i'm going to stop by the dealership this saturday and see what they say. let me know how your experience goes!

 

57 -

I'm curious to find out what your experience was with this. I will not be going back to this Palo Alto, CA dealership ever again. They want to charge me $300.00 in labor to put a new cable in. I'm going to check with Toyota repair shops to see if I can get this done for less.

It's ridiculous that a dealership doesn't know how to deal with this issue. I am going to call the Toyota hotline and see if that gets me anywhere.

 

I thought I had the same problem, because my lid wouldn't open when I pulled the lever. I could have someone pull up on the deck lid when I pulled the release and the deck lid would pop open, but it wouldn't on it's own. It was like that when I bought the car. When I replaced the engine and put the deck lid back on, I realized that the people before me had the two little black spring bumpers twisted all the way down. When I twisted them up to align the deck lid, it opened and closed normally.

So my advice to anyone with this problem is to have someone gently lift on the rear deck lid (at the heat vent in the middle or something) as you pull the release. If it opens, you may not have the cable issue. Obviously that's not the case here, but it might be useful for others who might search this post out later. What am I talking about. No one searches. Nevermind.

MoAtt

 

you can always take off the stock latch and use hood pins...

 

ahhh double post. sorry i just fixed my latch today by spraying wd40 and it works like new again. just maintain it with wd40.

 

silverjen-

I went to the dealership and they notified me that not only is the latch broken but the cable as well. Originally it was 100 for the latch and 100 for labor. now its 100 for latch, 30 for cable and 400 for labor. $530 is crazy. I talked to one of the mechanics there and he showed me how to open it while someone is pulling on the latch. You have to press down and pull up. After messing with it i managed to do it myself. As for labor, I plan on installing both myself using a brass cable clamp as LR recommended. That seems like the best way to go seeing as that I dont want to spend 2 hrs taking apart the driver's seat and carpeting to replace the whole thing. You can order the parts online for cheaper. I tried that, it totaled $84 but my parts never came after a week so I said screw it and ordered it at the stealership.

 

attention spyderchatters! need help!

Instead of paying the $400 dollars to have the dealership feed a new cable in, i decided to do it myself and cut the 2 cables and cable clamp them together. My problem is that i need to know which cable clamp to use! i went to home depot and they only had 1 cable clamp that was small enough (1/16). i tried using it and it snapped. It is the kind that you feed one end through the other and then hammer it shut. (i used pliers). So now i need help! i took off my latch and closed to hood so i am now afriad to drive! Thanks guys...

 

Engine lid wont open

Here's how to get in: Put a 1/4-inch-drive 12mm socket onto about a foot worth of extensions. Tape the socket on with thin tape--losing the socket on the way back out can be a real problem. Thin tape like Scotch or package tape is good. If you do lose the socket, take off the license plate to retieve it.

The socket can be wiggled through the plastic grille. Use a flashlight to guide you to the bolts holding the latch on.

This will get you to where you can manipulate the latch with a tool to unlock it.

From reading here I suspect that most often the problem is 'stretched' cable...not broken. The release lever runs out of travel before it pulls the latch release. My guess is that the latch was a shelf item from some other car and thus the cable, instead of taking the short route from the lever to the latch has to run the long route across the car and back.

I haven't solved mine yet but I'm damn sure not going to pay anybody any money.

I'm thinking to cut off the little ball and apply a swaged termination to shorten the cable. It's a high-stress situation there and will have to be done right.

I can't see what the lever-end of this thing looks like but it appears to be too messy to deal with the seat rails and the carpet and I don't see how to get the carpet free of the plastic cover around the lock.