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It doesn't matter who made it, or where it was made. As long as the wing surface has a clean airflow over it, and it's angled properly, there will be some downforce directly in relation to the amount of surface area.

Do you have a hard top or soft top?

Are you really going to be driving fast enough for it to matter?
 

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Well, before wind tunnels were a real thing, the engineers would tape strings to the surface of the car and drive real fast. They would then record or even just observe the way the string blew. A strong area with the strings pointing back indicates that the air is flowing properly and the strings pointing the wrong way indicates poor air flow the majority of the time. You could do that or there are computer aided ways to model flow too. Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, before wind tunnels were a real thing, the engineers would tape strings to the surface of the car and drive real fast. They would then record or even just observe the way the string blew. A strong area with the strings pointing back indicates that the air is flowing properly and the strings pointing the wrong way indicates poor air flow the majority of the time. You could do that or there are computer aided ways to model flow too. Good Luck!
I can try that after purchasing the wing. For now I want to make sure the wing is not majorly flawed due to being a knock off. I don't know enough about down force to judge it from the pictures.
 

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What power mods do you have? If you're stock it would strictly be an appearance mod (even within 1/4 mile drag times I'm sure.

The only clean air flow is when the wing is higher than the top of the car, the rest is either redirected laminar flow or worst of all 'dead' airspace. For daily driven cars most wings will be functionally useless but block most of the usable rear view, which can suck if you need to parallel park often so just consider that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What power mods do you have? If you're stock it would strictly be an appearance mod (even within 1/4 mile drag times I'm sure.

The only clean air flow is when the wing is higher than the top of the car, the rest is either redirected laminar flow or worst of all 'dead' airspace. For daily driven cars most wings will be functionally useless but block most of the usable rear view, which can suck if you need to parallel park often so just consider that.
I have a boosted mr2. Will be around 350hp soon. I want it for aesthetics but I just want to be sure it's not going to send me in to a ditch when I take a corner because it's creating lift and making my car unpredictable. I've never bought a wing before and don't know what to expect.
 

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I have a boosted mr2. Will be around 350hp soon. I want it for aesthetics but I just want to be sure it's not going to send me in to a ditch when I take a corner because it's creating lift and making my car unpredictable.
Unless your wing is obviously flawed in design, no wing should produce lift by accident. But because you have a soft top, the wing will be very ineffective unless it is high enough above the highest point on your soft top. The soft top is going to mess with airflow and make the wing significantly less effective. This is the case with all cars with soft tops.

But it seems you want the wing mostly for aesthetic purposes, so that shouldn't matter to you. You won't be generating consistent downforce, but you'll never find yourself generating lift.

Something else to note is that with wings from various companies, the primary thing you'll find is weathering. The paint of the lacquer will wear away. Yellowing or matting the wing and that material will eventually start to strip away.
 

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It's gonna be fine. It'll be, at worst, completely ineffectual and, at the most, basically a small parachute. If your turbo MR2 winds up in a ditch, it won't be the wing's fault :)

It will generate lift if 1) it's literally upside down or 2) the front is pitched so far above the rear that it looks broken. Wings (on cars) basically push air up at the back. If it doesn't look like it's gonna do that, then, well, it probably won't.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Unless your wing is obviously flawed in design, no wing should produce lift by accident. But because you have a soft top, the wing will be very ineffective unless it is high enough above the highest point on your soft top. The soft top is going to mess with airflow and make the wing significantly less effective. This is the case with all cars with soft tops.

But it seems you want the wing mostly for aesthetic purposes, so that shouldn't matter to you. You won't be generating consistent downforce, but you'll never find yourself generating lift.

Something else to note is that with wings from various companies, the primary thing you'll find is weathering. The paint of the lacquer will wear away. Yellowing or matting the wing and that material will eventually start to strip away.
It might be worth mentioning that I drive roof down majority of it time.
 

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Are you really going to be driving fast enough for it to matter?
Aero works for cýclist so go figure how much it cán contribute for a car which basically moves from óver cycling speeds.
Look at the feects on turblence on the minute flap behind the seat or fron mongs to get an illustration of how much even those limited surfaces affect aero from very low speeds.

The myth about it not being useful for road cars stems from those ´road cars´ referred to being twice as heavy as the MR2. Aero forces obviously are relative to the car´s weight. Have a car weighing half, the effect is twice as significant.
50 kilos on the rear axle is not much for a 2 ton SUV but a 900 kilo roadster with 500 kilos of that on the rear, it is 10% extra traction!

The HÚGE thing with aero is that it can add traction without adding mass, centrifugal force. Basically something for free if you do not mind less top speed or a bit less mileage.
Those mentioning not going fast enought usually also bring up the lower top speed. Quite funny no?!

As to the view to rhe rear, I have the interior one out anyway as with my height it creates a blind spot in frónt of the car. Imo a bad place to have a blind spot ;-)

The aero thing should imo be seen as an intral aspect not just limited to a wing on the rear deck,
Reducing lift under the front is as important as reducing it at the rear. It is amazing what a chin lip does or vents in the bonnet or a wee bit of raker.
At the rear, improving flow through the engine bay and also reducing turbulence behand the round bum are also elements to look at.
When looked at integrally, the combined effect will be most worthwhile with minimal draw backs. Unless you feel you need top spreed ;-)

Now, about roof up well, I bought a cabrio for a reason so the roof up being better is as obvious as irrelevant to me. I also drive the vast mayority even windows down. Made a classic tonneau for that.

So, you decide, you have a go, or not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Aero works for cýclist so go figure how much it cán contribute for a car which basically moves from óver cycling speeds.
Look at the feects on turblence on the minute flap behind the seat or fron mongs to get an illustration of how much even those limited surfaces affect aero from very low speeds.

The myth about it not being useful for road cars stems from those ´road cars´ referred to being twice as heavy as the MR2. Aero forces obviously are relative to the car´s weight. Have a car weighing half, the effect is twice as significant.
50 kilos on the rear axle is not much for a 2 ton SUV but a 900 kilo roadster with 500 kilos of that on the rear, it is 10% extra traction!

The HÚGE thing with aero is that it can add traction without adding mass, centrifugal force. Basically something for free if you do not mind less top speed or a bit less mileage.
Those mentioning not going fast enought usually also bring up the lower top speed. Quite funny no?!

As to the view to rhe rear, I have the interior one out anyway as with my height it creates a blind spot in frónt of the car. Imo a bad place to have a blind spot ;-)

The aero thing should imo be seen as an intral aspect not just limited to a wing on the rear deck,
Reducing lift under the front is as important as reducing it at the rear. It is amazing what a chin lip does or vents in the bonnet or a wee bit of raker.
At the rear, improving flow through the engine bay and also reducing turbulence behand the round bum are also elements to look at.
When looked at integrally, the combined effect will be most worthwhile with minimal draw backs. Unless you feel you need top spreed ;-)

Now, about roof up well, I bought a cabrio for a reason so the roof up being better is as obvious as irrelevant to me. I also drive the vast mayority even windows down. Made a classic tonneau for that.

So, you decide, you have a go, or not.
Useful write up. I have a lip but will be adding a splitter also.
 

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Risks of purchasing wing made in Asia will be noticeable at high performance with high performance race car.
It's not that risky during street driving. The amount of downforce is too low to push the wing at his limits.

However, the Miata and the MR-S don't have very good aerodynamic design.
The best is to prefer 3 dimensionals instead of 2 dimensionals (blade like 2000's).

If you haven't noticed it, the engine lid of the MR-S is not flat but is falling down.
You should take a look at : wing plate design / brackets length to be sure of the fitting.

Width of the MR-S engine lid is narrow and risk of touching rear headlight is high.
  • too wide wing plate and you will not be able to screw it on the engine lid
  • too narrow and you can only install it one the train rain (not strong area)

Voltex wing is good for the MR-S (Techno PRo Spirit did used it).
But I don't remember witch one.

Here my french writing to install the GT86/BRZ Sard wing : https://www.mrs-passion.fr/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12812&hilit=sard
 

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However, the Miata and the MR-S don't have very good aerodynamic design.
The best is to prefer 3 dimensionals instead of 2 dimensionals (blade like 2000's).

If you haven't noticed it, the engine lid of the MR-S is not flat but is falling down.
You should take a look at : wing plate design / brackets length to be sure of the fitting.

Width of the MR-S engine lid is narrow and risk of touching rear headlight is high.
  • too wide wing plate and you will not be able to screw it on the engine lid
  • too narrow and you can only install it one the train rain (not strong area)

Voltex wing is good for the MR-S (Techno PRo Spirit did used it).
Spot on.
I have a chinese copy of the Voltex GT1/2 about 155 cm wide.
The supports are now in 3D printed heavy duty ABS. Made the side plates in ABS foamboard.
There are bolted onto the ´main´ part of the deck. The rear edge is in the same vertical as the lip behind the deck.



 
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