MR2 SpyderChat banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,812 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The spyder I am working on right now had a hood that would not release due to a broken cable. After installing a new cable(PITA) the hood and gas cap were still not releasing properly. After some head scratching I actually had a "eureka" moment (these get rare with advancing age).It appears that the cable holder at the release lever is not up to the task. Looking at the pictures you will see the pronounced bend that the cable holder is starting to take. It actually should be pointing out the other way at about the same angle.
In this pic you can see the bend

In this pic you can see the weak spot along the top of the plate. There is a slot cut in the metal and the force of opening the hood over time bends the arm in.

In the last pic you can see where all the cable slack comes from, those slots should be close to lining up.

The quick fix is to simply bend the arm back out to the angle shown to take out the cable slack. I am going to tack weld a support in so this does not happen again.
I have checked all three of the releases I have and two were bent so bottom line if you have a hood that won't release due to a loose cable check this first. If you have a hood and a gas door that are both giving you problems this is most likely the culprit.

Update with many thanks to Kenny for doing the complete documentation of this repair see this link by Kenny or read at the bottom of this thread
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
How did you get that piece out? How did you get it out of the interior? I am having the same trouble. The engine lid won’t open no matter how much I pull. Also how exactly did you fix the slack in the cable? Did you just roll it up a bit or make a new bead higher up in the cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
447 Posts
Also where is that bit, is it the release on the floor, is it at the boot end, the bonnet etc the fuel cap end etc???
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,897 Posts
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Kenny Sajo @ Jun 10 2008, 11:28 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
How did you get that piece out? How did you get it out of the interior? I am having the same trouble. The engine lid won’t open no matter how much I pull. Also how exactly did you fix the slack in the cable? Did you just roll it up a bit or make a new bead higher up in the cable.[/b]
it has a lock button but ill guess you figured that out to fill up gas


your problem my friend, which i had the same, is the search area. i forgot what its called thou. itll take two to get fixed unless you can find something to push under your lever for the engine bay latch. what going to do if your doing it on your own is find something you can put under the lever to hold it up, then walk to the back and open your engine bay cover, their should be two what look like rubber bumpers on the frame area of your car and they should have screw like motion, well unscrew them to adjust the hight of each bumber (dont take them out!) and bam, your door should be able to open and close. make it bit tight to close so it well "pop up" next time you pull the trigger.

Edit: I didnt read your earlier post, sorry sajo!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
879 Posts
Hey, I'm having this problem...where on the engine lid should I be jimmying it to get it open? I don't even remember where the actual latch is. I don't understand what the hell the guy above me is talking about.

Nevermind, I got it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,812 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Instructions by Kenny
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Kenny Sajo @ Jul 2 2008, 04:39 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Ok, so I'm going to tell you about my experience with the engine bay door latch. I thought I fixed it when I widened the bend in the lever piece and reduced the slack in the cable. I though I fixed it when adjusted the rubber bungs and lubricated the cables. I turns out I all of the parts worked together to make it impossible to open the trunk. I will show you what I had to do because it covers everything you will ever need if your trunk just won’t open. Pictures are not great because I only have a cell phone camera. Hope this helps.

Terms as I use them:

Lever Piece:

Truck Latch:

Cables:


The pictures below show the bend in the lever piece that pulls on the wire in the cables. Widening this bend makes the cable slack shorter and shortens the release point in the latch. This would fix the whole problem except for that it bends back after a few pulls so you have to weld a support here:





If you don’t weld a support for the bend it will bend back as I learned the hard way. I bent the lever piece trying to open the trunk. The bar is strong but the cord tip where the wire comes out and attaches to the latch in the trunk broke [the grey and black tips in the picture above.]




* To open the trunk if it is hopelessly stuck you need to push in the little grill that looks like this:



It simply pushes in. It is held by several little plastic stubs in the car. The only difficulty I see here is putting it back in so it’s flush and looks even with no bumps in the plastic. You have to play with it and move it around till it’s perfect, other wise it’s easy. Get a long extension for a 10mm socket [mechanic did this, you might have to buy or borrow one] for the latch and unbolt from the small grill space once the grill is pushed back. [pictures taken at night]:






Once the trunk is open you can remove the latch. So to get to the lever piece you need to remove the plastic cover over the levers [the part where there’s a lock for the trunk.] this is tricky, you need to pull it forward and up with a pry or screw driver then lift by hand. It’s hard to explain verbally but looking at the pictures you’ll see how it’s made. It might break coming out, so you might need to epoxy it back together.





Take off the lock piece off by unbolting the first bolt you see after the plastic cover is off. The bolt for the lock is different from the other two holding the lever to the body [don’t loose these.] The black plastic piece I'm holding in the picture below comes off by hand just get your nails between it and the carpet it pulls off safely.




Getting the leaver piece out is a pain because the two bolts holding the piece to the car are hard to access. I can’t be done with a socket, you need regular wrench to loosen it and then you can finish unscrewing by hand. Taking the lock off makes putting your hands between the carpet and body of the car easier. It’s a tight fit but you need to stick you hand between the carpet and the body as seen below.





CONTINUED ->[/b]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,812 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (Kenny Sajo @ Jul 2 2008, 04:40 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>


So like I said I got all three pieces brand new. The three parts are the Lever piece, the Trunk release latch and the Cable; which come separately but look attached to the lever piece. Prices may vary but I got my parts through my mechanic from Toyota [OEM stuff no bootleg crap]. Lever piece: $78.14, Trunk release latch: $63.88, Cables: $27.18. Here they are new [some parts are different colors]:






So installing the latch and lever pieces are easy enough. You need to connect the cables to the lever piece and crimp them together [this is self explanatory if you have the parts] just see old parts. What I'm not 100% sure of is getting the cables through the car. Luckily, I happen to have a brilliant mechanic who did this for me in no time. He told me how it goes, I will illustrate how the cables go though the car roughly:




Sorry about the hard top photo
The actual cables go under where the soft top goes down.

To do this you need to take the right vent cover and duct out, the right sill plate, and several trim panels behind the seat out. The cable runs near the bottom of the car across from the right to left side of the car either under or though the soft-top compartment I'm not sure which.

If you don’t have time or money for all this you can remove the trunk latch and the door will stay down just fine. I drove around like this for a little while and almost forgot about it. To be honest it stays down just fine and doesn’t really need a latch for the door.

OK, so that’s all for now. Anyone needing this in Microsoft Word format may email me at [email protected] for a request + any questions related to this. I do consider myself to understand all aspects of this issue by now. Thanks for reading, hope this helps =].[/b]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
647 Posts
I welded a support bracket to mine today cus my trunk wouldn't open at all. Found this thread and was like "OH".

It's still really hard to open the trunk, but it opens now. I'm wondering if the cable is too stretched already. Might order/change that out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
I replaced the trunk latch, lever and cable last weekend and followed the directions above and it worked great! I found that the best order to do things is to first replace the latch, then the cable, and lastly the lever. Feeding the cable through the car was very tricky so I though I would explain how I did it below.

The new cable will come with two sliding pieces attached in the middle. One is a rubber plug to keep water from entering the car by the right side air vent and the other is a small rectangular piece of plastic that clips into the body of the car to keep the cable from moving. I just cut the small rectangular clip off since it got in the way and would have been virtually impossible to clip in place unless I removed a side body panel. The pictures do a good job showing the path of the cable except it should be noted that the cable does not travel under the plastic storage space. It enters through there by the passenger side vent but then goes down and travels behind the vertical carpeting just below the storage space.

To feed the cable through the car first remove the passenger side vent, the storage compartment doors and bottoms, the driver side door sill and the two back screws on the center console sides. You can now pull the carpet back and should see the old cable's path from entering by the passenger side vent and going all the way to the lever. Now that you have exposed the path of the old cable we need to replace it with the new one. To do this I used to old cable to pull the new cable through the car. Starting by the engine bay, I secured the ends of the cables together using zip ties and tape. Make sure you are fastening the new cables lever end to the old cable's latch end. Now the goal is to pull the new cable through. There are many plastic clips which keep the old cable secured to the car. You will see a few in the engine bay holding the old cable. There are several (4?) above the rear passenger wheel well that will also need to be unhooked. This requires long arms. One of these clips will be that rectangular plastic thing I mentioned earlier. Just pull down hard and it will pop out (you can keep the new cable's clip if you'd like but finding this connection spot may be tricky). Once you have released all the clips between the latch and the right side vent, reach into the right side vent and pull the old cable which will then pull on the new cable feeding it through the space.

I repeated this process through the next few sections of the car until finally arriving at the lever. Make sure to cut the rubber piece off the old cable to make pulling it through the hole by the side vent easier. Also make sure to correctly mount the new rubber plug to ensure a water tight seal. Pulling the cable through the space between the carpet and the center console can be tricky which is why we needed to remove those two center console screws. A few unclips later you will finally arrive at the trunk release lever. Just follow the directions above to replace the lever and you're all done!

Sorry I didn't think to take any pictures.

Hope this helps!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Simple Solution

Hello Spyderchat users,
After our problem opening the engine hood, we developed a solution. A kit for a simple and permanent fix you can do yourself with step-by-step instructions. Check out our website to order a Spyder Hatch Kit today.

www.spyderhatchkit.com

- DavidZ
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,835 Posts

The quick fix is to simply bend the arm back out to the angle shown to take out the cable slack.
I am going to tack weld a support in so this does not happen again.
Do Not skip this step!
If you skip it, the tang will bend again, and your (considerable) effort will be wasted.
Having once been bent, the metal is weaker and prone to bending again.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top