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Discussion Starter #221
Here's another installment in the series MR2 Spyder for Dummies. It's "How to Remove the Starter." My good friend Gomba please note that the starter comes out with not one tool being shown in the video - so nobody can accuse me of profiting from tool sales on this one.

 

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I've already watched your transmission removal video and it has got some good tips in there. The cut-off bolts with tapered heads is a good idea. I'll have to try and create those next time. Also, I've never heard of an engine support bar before -- I checked and they have these at Harbor Freight. This is much better than trying to support the engine from underneath the car and having more shit in the way under there when removing/installing the trans.

Looking forward to how you position the trans for install. It's a weird shape and kind of hard to get it straight sitting on a jack to put onto the engine. I think those studs will definitely help w/install but I'm wondering what other things you've come up with for making it easier. I'd really love to do the install on my own. I've always needed someone to help w/install, but I could remove it by myself.

Thanks for the vids!

-G
 

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Discussion Starter #223
Ok this is a huge spoiler so "spoiler alert" for everyone.

I'm going to reveal my trick for getting the transmission into place easily.

First I lie down on my crawler. Then I shimmy the transmission onto my chest. Then I roll down under the car. Then I bench-press the transmission into position.

The C-series weighs about 80 lbs. For safety sake you should have a 50% margin i.e. you should be able to bench 120 in the gym. A E-series weighs 135. You should be able to bench 200. So my advice is eat your Wheaties and start going to the gym.

I have another method that does not require any bench strength and does not involve a transmission jack. I will demonstrate both methods.

But we're getting ahead of ourselves. For now let's stick with the starter video.
 

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Discussion Starter #226
This is what you might call a little bagatelle. Keep in mind that this series is truly intended for dummies. How to disconnect the engine harness from the fusebox. I'll be following this one up with how to replace the main fuse.

 

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Frank, do you have any videos on how to put air in my tires?

Just kidding.

I read this entire thread and it will be useful for me (I'm a dummy). I just blew my 1zz engine up at 153k and will be gathering the bits and pieces for a 2zz swap.

This should be much easier than my last engine swap project which involved putting a built 530hp LS6 engine into a radical widebody Porsche 914. That project took several years and 50K invested by the time it was complete.

ENGINE PIC.jpg Rock Falls 9.9.06.jpg ENGINE PIC.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #228
Frank, do you have any videos on how to put air in my tires?

Just kidding.

I read this entire thread and it will be useful for me (I'm a dummy). I just blew my 1zz engine up at 153k and will be gathering the bits and pieces for a 2zz swap.

This should be much easier than my last engine swap project which involved putting a built 530hp LS6 engine into a radical widebody Porsche 914. That project took several years and 50K invested by the time it was complete.
With your experience and your tolerance for pain, you might think about skipping the underwhelming and under-reliable 2zz and go straight for K or 2GR or even 2AR.
 

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Discussion Starter #229
Never before seen on Spyderchat: De-pinning the ECU connector terminals for the 2ZZ swap.

It takes nerves of steel and a very steady hand to do this live on camera. I challenge any of you clowns to do this.

CAVEAT: I am not responsible if you permanently mess up your harness, requiring replacement of an entire connector.

 

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Discussion Starter #232
I just found out from this thread I’ve been watching all your videos.

I’ll be trying the axle removal soon.
Thanks
Stay tuned there's more good stuff coming...
 

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Discussion Starter #237
How to configure an after-market fuel rail with a sampling of some of the fittngs and hoses [including the all-important Russell Push-on or Press-on EFI Adapter] needed to connect it to the fuel system. Keep in mind there is far more than one way to skin a cat, this is just one example:

 

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With your experience and your tolerance for pain, you might think about skipping the underwhelming and under-reliable 2zz and go straight for K or 2GR or even 2AR.
Hey Frank,

Do you think the 2zz can be made to be reliable enough for some serious flogging?

I've been educating myself on some of the pitfalls of 2zz ownership. Here's what I've learned to do with one if you like to treat it like a red headed step child:

* Replace Lift bolts (easy and cheap)
* Upgrade oil pump gears (not cheap)
* Upgrade valve springs & retainers (not too expensive...but can get expensive if you upgrade cams with it)
* Upgrade to Moroso oil pan (not cheap)

What else am I missing?


I kind of miss working on my old LS6 engine where most everything was reasonably priced. It takes money to have fun with a 2zz!
 

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I would only do the valve springs and retainers if you are also going to a higher lift/duration cam, as you will need to change the valves at the same time to avoid mushrooming of the valves due to the extra spring tension. The stock valvetrain (other than the lift bolts) is quite reliable.

For durability that is a good list. I would also add some kind of an oil cooler with a thermostatic sandwich plate on the oil filter, and then position the cooler core in the right hand engine bay vent. Also ensure the engine is getting good, fresh air from the left hand vent. Most issues with the 2ZZ are related to the oiling system.
 

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Discussion Starter #240
After a long break for the holiday season, I'm adding more videos to the series MR2 Spyder for Dummies. Here is the latest installment, "How to Remove the Fuel Injectors," just in time for Chinese New Year.

Gung hay fat choy!

 
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