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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
this is the second time i have tracked an alignment problem down to my passenger side coilover, adjusting itself down. there is an associated groan from the front suspension which i cannot track down, but i believe it is the coilover adjusting itself down.

so last time and this time, i put a pipe on the ring adjuster wrench, and torqued it down super hard. but that didn't work last time, and i dont think it will work again. and, when i drive around again, it creaks sometimes, meaning, i think its adjusting itself down.

any ideas?
 

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I'm going to guess strut mount going bad or spherical bearing in the camber plate going bad. Do you have some type of torrington bearing to allow the spring to rotate freely?
 

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this is the second time i have tracked an alignment problem down to my passenger side coilover, adjusting itself down. there is an associated groan from the front suspension which i cannot track down, but i believe it is the coilover adjusting itself down.

so last time and this time, i put a pipe on the ring adjuster wrench, and torqued it down super hard. but that didn't work last time, and i dont think it will work again.

any ideas?
Thread locker?

One of my alignment guys told me this happens all the time, and that's why he won't do cars with coilovers.

I saw that Supersprint [sic - I meant Silversprint, LOL] has bearings for the springs - these allow them to rotate freely without turning everything else - I wish I'd got those!

PS. For myself, I line up a short crowbar with the tooth in the perch, and I tap it a few times with the five-pound sledge, to lock it securely.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm going to guess strut mount going bad or spherical bearing in the camber plate going bad. Do you have some type of torrington bearing to allow the spring to rotate freely?
the spring and the strut rotate together on megans. that being said, the whole thing does rotate freely when the car is jacked up. might possibly be that under load it doesn't rotate as smoothly. that would explain why the groan is usually when turning the wheel.

thought of thread locker, but i also didn't want to do anything that cannot be undone. the other 3 torque down nice and tight ... this one should too.

torqued it so hard tonight, i bent the tooth on the provided wrench. if that doesn't do it, something big is wrong.
 

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Most likely is the washers on the spring seat and above the spring are cheap rubber/ plastic or missing. The best fix for loosening collars are Torrington bearings. The groaning noise you hear is the spring catching on the spring perch as you turn the wheel. It will keep loosening.

I use metal washers between the spring and the spring perch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Most likely is the washers on the spring seat and above the spring are cheap rubber/ plastic or missing. The best fix for loosening collars are Torrington bearings. The groaning noise you hear is the spring catching on the spring perch as you turn the wheel. It will keep loosening.
i do not believe the spring is supposed to rotate separate from the damper. as long as the damper rotates freely with respect to the strut mount (which is pillowball), then i think that degree of freedom is properly constrained. at least thats how it works on all of my other three.

like i said, the pillowball rotates just fine, when unloaded. perhaps when its loaded with weight, it sticks.
 

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i do not believe the spring is supposed to rotate separate from the damper.
It is. When a spring compresses it twists. This twist of metal on metal is the noise you hear, it also puts pressure on the spring seat to rotate probably causing yours to loosen.

Easy fix is to buy a torrington bearing, they cost $20, and will fix the issue if that is indeed your issue. You will need to remove the spring in order to fit it. Also the megans are probably a metric size like 60mm so that might make it a little harder to find the right size ID torrington bearing.
 

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I am with everyone. You would need to install a pair of torrington bearings. I install a pair on my custom strut housings on the top spring seat meeting the camber plates. It is smooth while turning and no groan at all. I got mine from Techno Toy Tuning but it is for 2.5" ID springs.



Sent from TAPATALK (I am poor and don't have a computer to use!!!)
 

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Just sounds like the topmount pillowcase is goosed to me. In my experience I have never heard of coilovers winding the seat down the body of the damper on their own. Replace the topmount and it should stop happening.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
megan just told me to lock-tight it. i asked them about the pillow ball mount, and they said the primary symptom of that failing is clunking, not winding down.
 

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I have had to add an additional spring perch as a lock nut even with the torrington bearing. So I don't think your problem is unheard of.

You might also look at the face of the spring resting on the perch and see if it has any sharp edges that might be digging into the perch. If you do grind it smooth.

The other method is to drill a hole into the perch at a right angle to the shock, tap it and use an allen bolt as a lock to keep the perch from turning.

I would also agree that pillow ball mounts typically knock when they fail.
 

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I've often used a roller bearing built into the top spring perch, between it and the pillow ball so the strut can rotate freely without binding on the spring.

I've seen some coilovers that in addition to having the second threaded perch to lock against the main one, also have set screws with Teflon tips that you thread into holes drilled and tapped into the perches, locking them against the strut tube.
 

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I have had to add an additional spring perch as a lock nut even with the torrington bearing. So I don't think your problem is unheard of.
Jeez I'm naive but I thought all coilovers come with the locking perches - one to lock against the spring, and one to lock against the bottom bracket - like this below, from mine. Don't the Megans have that?

 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have had to add an additional spring perch as a lock nut even with the torrington bearing. So I don't think your problem is unheard of.

You might also look at the face of the spring resting on the perch and see if it has any sharp edges that might be digging into the perch. If you do grind it smooth.

The other method is to drill a hole into the perch at a right angle to the shock, tap it and use an allen bolt as a lock to keep the perch from turning.

I would also agree that pillow ball mounts typically knock when they fail.
I've often used a roller bearing built into the top spring perch, between it and the pillow ball so the strut can rotate freely without binding on the spring.

I've seen some coilovers that in addition to having the second threaded perch to lock against the main one, also have set screws with Teflon tips that you thread into holes drilled and tapped into the perches, locking them against the strut tube.
you guys are misunderstanding the construction of these and what the problem is. the problem is not the lower spring locking rings. the spring maintains its preload. the problem is the height adjustment locking ring.
 

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The way I see it. Putting a car on a four post lift or alignment lift and turn the wheel left and right to see if the whole assembly turns with it. Something might be binding causing whole strut assembly to turn and causin it to unlock from the strut ear assembly


Sent from TAPATALK (I am poor and don't have a computer to use!!!)
 

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I see so the lower mount is moving not the spring perch. The cause is essentially the same. The spring does not rotate freely so it move the whole shock body inside the lower mount. As suggested you can try tread lock, adding a second collar above the lower mount, or drilling and putting a bolt in the mount. I would be carefully with the bolt because it will damage the treads on the shock body.

Posted on by Megan Racing.

Greetings Joseph,


This is a common occurrence on a McPherson strut design with a coilover kit where the top and bottom of the spring is not locked in place.


Here is some information on our website:
http://www.meganracing.com/tech/faqs...om%20coilovers?


We call it coil-bind. Basically the assembly is under vertical loads so the spring is under constant pressure by the weight of the vehicle. When the steering wheel is turned, the entire assembly is forced to rotate as the strut assembly rotates to turn the spindle and turn the wheels. Luckily it does not affect the functionality of the coilovers, but is rather a nuisance more than anything.


In the above article, we mention greasing the spring above and below may help alleviate the noise, but since grease may wash away, sometimes it is a temporary fix.


I'm not sure what the forum members refer to as a compliance washer, but a component used in the industry are "thrust washers" or "torrington bearings" that can allow some rotation in the assembly. This tends to be a high-maintenance item, adding another wear-and-tear component to the assembly. What we have integrated since was a bearing integrated into the upper spring seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
i hate when folks post problems, then never post the solutions so heres what fixed it:

blue locktight and a shit ton of torque seems to have stopped the coiling down. and undoing the top nut on the strut, and greasing that area, has stopped the groan.

all quite, and alignment and ride height are holding :)
 

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i hate when folks post problems, then never post the solutions so heres what fixed it:

blue locktight and a shit ton of torque seems to have stopped the coiling down. and undoing the top nut on the strut, and greasing that area, has stopped the groan.

all quite, and alignment and ride height are holding :)
I do not understand and I have the same problem, could u explain it to where I could understand?
 
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