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Discussion Starter #1
I've discovered what I believe to be a bad front wheel bearing. So I'm in the process of removing a front right hub. I've got all four bolts removed as per the BGB, but that sucker isn't coming out.



I tried smacking it with a dead-blow, nothing. Tried a brass drift and hammer from the back side, nothing. Tried threading a bolt in from the wheel side, then tapping with a punch from the back, nothing. I also soaked the whole thing in PB Blaster.

I'm thinking maybe a slide hammer, but I don't have one.

Any help is much appreciated.
 

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Sammy if you can get a 2X4 on the back side that is long enough to use the car jack against a vertical surface (a wall perhaps ) you might be able to jack it off. maybe use the tire on the other side but don't go crazy as it might do damage if it does not come off with minimal pressure?

Thats all I got.
:lol:
he said J*** I* O**
 

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Discussion Starter #4
T-bone, that's a possibility. I'm not sure if there's a spot to push on the backside though, as I had a hard time just finding a spot to get a drift in there. I also have the lower control arms off right now.

(I was putting in poly bushings, which is how I discovered the bad ball joint, then eventually the bad wheel bearing.)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Do you have a press? It may be time to pull the spindle and press it out.
I don't, but.... The ABS speed sensor is on the backside, I'm not sure it is removable while in the knuckle. So there really isn't anything to press against on the backside.


Is there anyone that has done this before? Did it just pop out after removing the four bolts, or was it stuck in there?
 

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The book lists the ABS sensor ring as a non reusable part. I have not had to change one out, does the new hub come with the sensor ring? Looking at the book I would remove the spindle and press it out. Outside of that I would try to heat the area with a torch and then quench with some penetrating oil, that bitch is rusted in the hub. Sorry I am no more help.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
When looking at the parts list online, I don't see the ABS as a separate part. The hub is shown as one piece, with the studs being the only item with their own part number.

My concern is that I'll crush the hell out of that ABS sensor, only to discover that it's an additional $$$ part. I did read where it said it was not a reusable part though. I wonder if that is because it get's destroyed during hub removable.

I'll probably end up removing the knuckle, but I've got to give it a break for a few weeks anyways. Hopefully by then it loosens itself up.

Another question, does a new hub come with studs? This makes it questionable:
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_2002_TOYOTA_MR2_ZZW30L-AKMQHA_4303.html

Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
bolt the wheel back on and kick it side to side. you have more leverage that way..
...negating the need for wheel spacers (and wear on your wheelbearings)
That's an idea. Got to get the control arm back on though.

Your spacer idea would also require spacing of the caliper mounts, as they are part of the knuckle.
 

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It's all one piece with the abs sensor. I replaced my full knuckle, I still have an extra bearing/abs sensor. I'll sell it for $40. Bearing feels good and came out of a 50k 2002 spyder from a local junk yard. I was able to get my old one out but it is tough. If you have to just beat on the back since your bearing needs replaced. Ohh I can ship 2day fed ex air for the same as ground so you can have it by Thursday.
 

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What is the exact process for removal and installation of new wheel bearings? I assumed you could just pop off the hub end and yank it out. Apparently not, according to the BGB.

Did you source a new bearing from Toyota? Cost?
 

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I was reading up on this. It sounds like a new bearing can be pressed in, but if there is damage to the inside of the hub then a new hub may be in order. I think I would just go with a new hub to avoid any issues.
 

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easiest way is with an air hammer... but throwing a bfh around works too... get something like a chisel to direct the blows to a corner of the outside part of the hub and start trying to get it to spin. eventually, it falls right out, or at least far enough to pry from behind.

i love the new matco air hammers.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I still have an extra bearing/abs sensor. I'll sell it for $40. Bearing feels good and came out of a 50k 2002 spyder from a local junk yard. I was able to get my old one out but it is tough. If you have to just beat on the back since your bearing needs replaced. Ohh I can ship 2day fed ex air for the same as ground so you can have it by Thursday.
Thanks, but I'd feel better going with a new part when dealing with hubs.

easiest way is with an air hammer... but throwing a bfh around works too... get something like a chisel to direct the blows to a corner of the outside part of the hub and start trying to get it to spin. eventually, it falls right out, or at least far enough to pry from behind.

i love the new matco air hammers.
You know what, I have one. I didn't think about hitting it from the side to see if it'd spin. I wasn't sure if it was completely round (no guide pins or anything) so wasn't sure if it'd spin. I'll have to try that.
 

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there's an attatchment for your air hammer just for chevy's hubs like this that beats on the bolts from the back side.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the bolt tapping method worked perfectly by the way..

i suggest doing that.
You know what, I didn't realize that the knuckle isn't threaded until I was putting away the tools. That's what I'll try when I get back, although I figured the procedures I've tried would have got it.

Couple of close up pics when you get it apart would be nice sammy.
Will do. Unfortunately I'm geographically separated from the Spyder again. I should be back at it in a week or so.
 

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front bearing

history forces me to comment that if one bearing is bad, the other aint far behind- while you have it apart, bit the bullet and do both sides including the inside tie rod ends- dont forget alignment after!!!:huh:
 
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