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Discussion Starter #1
It appears that someone has already figured out a solution to gaining bump stroke with koni yellows.

by cutting a large hole in the bottom of the strut housing, the strut drops down almost an inch.



now that the strut has dropped down, something has to be done to hold it into the strut housing.

That's where these come into play:




now my problem arises in the cost of these things. I remember seeing them at $75 a pair/ $150 for front and rear!

Could a stack of washers not achieve the same thing as the part above?
are there any other inexpensive options for holding the strut in the housing?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
$45 for a pair, $90 for all 4 corners,

http://turninconcepts.com/product_i...ucts_id=458&osCsid=rvl2h9k950en7jt41rjatvfl74

Seems like a good deal to me.
ahhh, but still kinda pricey for such a small and simple part! Is there anything about it, that makes it any more special than a stack of washers.

I can get the cost down if I can get 10 orders.


Edit....

I don't think there is room up front. The swaybar barely clears the bottom of the strut.

Double edit.. I could integrate a swaybar mount into this part. This would obviously move the pivot point directly to the strut, and may even help with communication to the road. I may just make a set for myself first and give impressions..
interesting. I hadn't even looked up front. Just now installing them today.

I'd be interested in testing out a set for you as well :D
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I can get the cost down if I can get 10 orders.


Edit....

I don't think there is room up front. The swaybar barely clears the bottom of the strut.

Double edit.. I could integrate a swaybar mount into this part. This would obviously move the pivot point directly to the strut, and may even help with communication to the road. I may just make a set for myself first and give impressions..
okay, dumb question, but the the strut should have much variation in distance from the swaybay should it? because I'm seeing at least 2inches of clearance right now. If I lost an inch, I should still be fine, right?
 

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ahhh, but still kinda pricey for such a small and simple part! Is there anything about it, that makes it any more special than a stack of washers.
If you look at the pictures you will see both ends have a taper to them and it is more than just washers. Technically I guess you could use washers and alter them to match this part but I think you would get pretty close to the cost of the part. The best bet would be to find a friend with a lathe.

I don't think there is room up front. The swaybar barely clears the bottom of the strut.
This is a concern, just gotta measure the distance and try it out. The front might not need the strut extenders as much as the rear since more weight on the rear.

Double edit.. I could integrate a swaybar mount into this part. This would obviously move the pivot point directly to the strut, and may even help with communication to the road. I may just make a set for myself first and give impressions..
I don't think you want to integrate a swaybar mount into the strut. This is a much inferior design because it creates bumpsteer. As one side hits a bump it will pull on the strut from the other side causing a twisting on the strut which leads to the steering wheel moving. The one benefit would be the motion ratio of front swaybar would be much higher.

BTW, I talked with Koni NA and they said the strut knubs are the same on the spyder and the WRX koni yellows. So I'm confidant the part will fit the spyder Konis.

Front:


Rear:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you didn't hear this from me but..... Swaybar should have been first ;)
ehhh, stock dampers are on there last leg so they needed to be replaced soon anyways. Aaaaaaand I have some coilover sleeves from my old car (acura integra) that I will be able to use with the konis so I will also get the aesthetic improvement of a lowered car as well as the performance improvement.
 

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I run sleeves as well. You will want to cut your stock spring perches off, remember the wheel ratio of your Honda is much lower than your spyder and even at the lowest setting your car will be higher than stock. Iirc my welded on spring perch is barely above the brake line bracket.
Agreed, gotta grind the spring perch off completely. I just let my rear sit on the swaybar bracket and the front on the hub mounting bracket part. I later welded an extra ring around the rear though.

To the comment about bump steer.... Explain all the stock vehicles with swaybar attachments to the syrut? I should have included that the direct-strut-connection would include an endlink setup. Not sure how you would get a twisting motion out of that....[/QUOTE]
If you have the correct ride height, endlink length, swaybar arm, and swaybar attachment point there is no bumpsteer. if you change any one of those, then problems could occur. The bumpsteer occurs because

"Your sway bar forces are now no-longer parallel to the strut, aka to the steering axis. Since the front sway bar links mount to the strut on a bracket that extends the force several inches from the strut, any forces put into that bracket not parallel to the strut will tend to turn the front wheel. Bump Steer from your sway bar. And the more caster you have the worse this effect will be"

From: http://www.mr2oc.com/showthread.php?t=406675

I experienced this firsthand in my mk2 and it is a common mk2 issue with aftermarket swaybars, endlinks, and lowered cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I run sleeves as well. You will want to cut your stock spring perches off, remember the wheel ratio of your Honda is much lower than your spyder and even at the lowest setting your car will be higher than stock. Iirc my welded on spring perch is barely above the brake line bracket.


To the comment about bump steer.... Explain all the stock vehicles with swaybar attachments to the syrut? I should have included that the direct-strut-connection would include an endlink setup. Not sure how you would get a twisting motion out of that....
already cut off and ready to go on tomorrow :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10


success?

there is plenty of travel in the rear, but the front is dangerously close to catching the bump stop when using my own weight bouncing the car. (250lbs) And after having a better look at the sway bar end link up front while the car was on the alignment rack, it looks like I would have just enough space to use the spacers posted earlier in the thread IF the distance between the bottom of the strut and end link does not decrease while driving. Should I be worried?
 

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success?

there is plenty of travel in the rear, but the front is dangerously close to catching the bump stop when using my own weight bouncing the car. (250lbs) And after having a better look at the sway bar end link up front while the car was on the alignment rack, it looks like I would have just enough space to use the spacers posted earlier in the thread IF the distance between the bottom of the strut and end link does not decrease while driving. Should I be worried?
Put zipties around your strut shaft to see if you are bottoming out and what travel you have.

Also, are you using the stock bump stops?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Put zipties around your strut shaft to see if you are bottoming out and what travel you have.

Also, are you using the stock bump stops?
I did use the zipties. I am coming within 1cm of hitting the bumpstops in the front. I'm using the stock bump stops cut in half.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
going to take a plunge and order a pair from the site listed. wish me luck!

any other ideas?

Levi, I think I saw that you were able to gain a little bit by going with custom tophats? significant gain?
hmmmm, I need camber adjustment in the front anyways...
 

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going to take a plunge and order a pair from the site listed. wish me luck!

any other ideas?

Levi, I think I saw that you were able to gain a little bit by going with custom tophats? significant gain?
hmmmm, I need camber adjustment in the front anyways...
Well, its based on how you did your coilovers. Using the stock strut tops+stock spring tops reduces bump travel very little = very good and you can't gain more with custom camber plates/spring tops. But imo you need camber plates to get the negative camber required with a strut suspension and moving the strut tops inwards improves the camber curves/roll centers.

I don't like how the stock spring tops don't hold in a 2.5" coilover spring. I don't know if that is an actual problem with the spring becoming loose over a bump but I don't like the principal of it.

What did gain me .4" more bump travel is to get the spherical bearing that holds in the strut in the camber plate as high as possible. Top mounted camber plates are another idea I thought of but at this time I don't need them because I think I have enough bump travel for my spring rate. I think the subaru strut extenders are the best option for increasing bump travel though because all ground control esque coilovers on lowered cars have way more droop than you need and too little bump, so anything that trades droop for more bump is a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, its based on how you did your coilovers. Using the stock strut tops+stock spring tops reduces bump travel very little = very good and you can't gain more with custom camber plates/spring tops. But imo you need camber plates to get the negative camber required with a strut suspension and moving the strut tops inwards improves the camber curves/roll centers.

I don't like how the stock spring tops don't hold in a 2.5" coilover spring. I don't know if that is an actual problem with the spring becoming loose over a bump but I don't like the principal of it.

What did gain me .4" more bump travel is to get the spherical bearing that holds in the strut in the camber plate as high as possible. Top mounted camber plates are another idea I thought of but at this time I don't need them because I think I have enough bump travel for my spring rate. I think the subaru strut extenders are the best option for increasing bump travel though because all ground control esque coilovers on lowered cars have way more droop than you need and too little bump, so anything that trades droop for more bump is a good thing.
ahhh, yess. I am using the stock spring tops right now. Can the spherical bearings be used with those? (sorry for being such a noob to this suspension) The spacer should give me ~1" according to the guy that made them, and if I could get the .4" from the bearings that would be an increase of almost 1.5" which would be HUGE for me right now.

I have also played around with the idea of using crash bolts, or ovaling out the mounts down at the bottom of the strut to gain camber. Any opinions on those ideas?
will I not get the same benefits as the plates (aside from greater adjustability)?
 

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Adjusting camber with camber bolts does not effect the camber curve/roll center like it would if you adjusted from a camber plate.
 

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ahhh, yess. I am using the stock spring tops right now. Can the spherical bearings be used with those? (sorry for being such a noob to this suspension) The spacer should give me ~1" according to the guy that made them, and if I could get the .4" from the bearings that would be an increase of almost 1.5" which would be HUGE for me right now.

I have also played around with the idea of using crash bolts, or ovaling out the mounts down at the bottom of the strut to gain camber. Any opinions on those ideas?
will I not get the same benefits as the plates (aside from greater adjustability)?
You can't use spherical bearings with the stock strut tops. Even with the smallest crash bolt I could find I couldn't get even near enough front negative camber. I maxed out at roughly -2 with 1 smaller bolt from lowes and the smallest toyota crash bolt.

I would use this spacer and see if you are still coming within 1cm of engaging the bumpstop, I doubt you will be during normal body roll.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Adjusting camber with camber bolts does not effect the camber curve/roll center like it would if you adjusted from a camber plate.
You can't use spherical bearings with the stock strut tops. Even with the smallest crash bolt I could find I couldn't get even near enough front negative camber. I maxed out at roughly -2 with 1 smaller bolt from lowes and the smallest toyota crash bolt.

I would use this spacer and see if you are still coming within 1cm of engaging the bumpstop, I doubt you will be during normal body roll.
ahhhh
thanks guys

looks like I will have to go back to your thread and steal some more of your ideas. lol I do need the camber adjustment. Right now I'm sitting at -.6 driverside front and -.9 passengerside front.

well, in all honestly, I'd like to bring the car down just a hair more as well, so anything to help me gain is going to be useful.


bumpstops are maybe an inch tall? they are the stock ones cut in half.
 
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