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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am currently in the process of cutting as much rear weight and total weight as possible on my project so I will likely be building a "Jig" to fabricate myself a chromoly tube rear subframe.

Hux racing already has some of these build for the SW20 chassis but he only specializes in AW11 & mainly SW20s.

Since I will likely be building my own from a jig, it will set me up to build a series of them, dependent on if it's worth my time to have some available to sell.

I know the is highly dependent on the overall weight savings and my quality of work, but I was just curious if anyone would be interested at all with the nearly inconsequential gain from this.

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I defenenitely will be interested!! The adjustability of the suspension arms points is an important feature for me. If you make them further away from the ground by some marginal amaount, then the exact position could be adjusted using shims under the entire subframe.
 

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Are you saying move the two (toe link and lca mount) arm mounting locations up closer to the body at least 1.5" with shims as an option to bring back down to factory?
View attachment 86594
Yes plz. Im tempted to just modify the cross member by just cutting away and reinforcing the sides where they bolt to the chassis, but im worried about 1. My ability to do so safely, and 2. Maintainjng regidity.
 

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Are you saying move the two (toe link and lca mount) arm mounting locations up closer to the body at least 1.5" with shims as an option to bring back down to factory?
View attachment 86594
Yes, exactly, that is what I mean. I dont know how much closer to the body you can make the arms mounting points, but I suggest go as far as you can and then use the shims to adjust. As SDSUsnowboards said, I have always been tempted to modify to stock cross member but a purposely built piece will be ideal.
 

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This could present an advantage for 2GR swap. It would allow mounting an e153 without modifying the cross member. DDPR makes a custom cross member as part of their swap.

It could open up use of Lotus Elise headers with 2zz swap.

Plus the geometry correction is huge for lowered cars.

This is a great idea - probably the reason nobody has done it is the prohibitive cost. While a lot of people might like the idea, when it comes to actually paying for it, they will balk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have no doubt most will balk at the cost regardless of how reasonable or unreasonable it might be. Materials and hours of labor will be tracked on my personal one to give an estimate what it would need to be to make it worthwhile.

That's why I prompted the question, I'm already setting myself up to replicate more if needed, why not see if it's worth a weekend or two to get a few out there.
 

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Fabrication isn't my strong suit, but am definitely willing to pay for someone else to fab and build the right thing for my car. Would love to have the corrected arm mounting points for the rear after my tien lowering springs and koni yellow setup
 

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I took some measurements, and 1.5" might be excessive. If the mounting point is brought that high the toe link might make contact with the crossmember & bolt head under full compression of the suspension.

1" might work.
Would it be feasable to raise the crossmember itself to make up the difference, and drop the transmission mount commensurately?
 

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I have no doubt most will balk at the cost regardless of how reasonable or unreasonable
"Reasonable" has a spectrum. Some of us are a bit nuts. Personally, I would be very interested. While I like the stock ride height to clear the snow in Colorado, this just may be the thing that finally pushes me to drop. May need a skid plate for winter use though.
 
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