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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This will be a placeholder for a few of my turbo adventures on the 2zz and hopefully help others. I have owned a turbo 200sx SE-R SR20DET for over 5 years so this isn't my first rodeo into the turbo world. Also, as a previous owner of a turbo 90's Nissan, we are a notorious for being a 'cheap' bunch of people looking for the best 'bang for buck' way to fun. Zip ties and JB weld can take you a long way ;)

Got the turbo mounted:




Turbo is GT2860RS. I chose this turbo mainly for fast spool and power. Also has a .63 T3 turbine housing so this should be a perfect fit for the high revving 2zz. The turbo should be big enough for the limits of the stock engine. My entire reason for buying an MRS is to have a street/track car. Basically a poor-man's lotus. My previous SR20DET was going towards the goal, but I wanted something with less weight and RWD. Hoping to make around 330whp on E85. It's gonna be hard to stay w/my goal as I know boost is addictive as is more power. I told my friends to talk me out of a forged build for more power and be happy for what I have ;) Anyone who has done a strong turbo build knows what I'm talking about. The advantage with stock engine also is of course if it blows I just replace w/another stock engine. As long as I work out my tune to be safe enough, engine should last a while.

Turbo manifold is the OBX one for the Celica GTS. Thangcu35 is my inspiration for this build. He used the same manifold. He mentioned it needed some modification to work and it fits fine so idk what he meant. One thing I must mention is the description on the Ebay page I bought this manifold said it had a 40mm wastegate flange, but it's actually 44mm. The downpipe, however, doesn't fit at all. It points out towards the back, but is too long and the turbine outlet sits too low. My plan is to take the downpipe/car to a shop and have them make a custom exhaust build for me using the downpipe.

My plan for compressor outlet is actually to route DOWN and towards the driver side. Then come up by the driver side axle. Interestingly, I have not ran cross a photo of someone going this route. I think this is the best path for what I have to work with for the manifold. I'm going to use reflective heat tape to keep radiated heat off the intercooler pipes that cross the turbo manifold from the bottom. I could go up and across the turbo manifold but that'd introduce a lot of heat and I already have a lot of heat for the compressor inlet being so close to the turbo manifold. There were no reasonable places to extend the turbo inlet pipe so I put a filter directly on the compressor inlet. I want to come up with some good solutions to keep heat from the turbo manifold and exhaust from entering turbine inlet like heat shields.

Putting the filter directly on the compressor inlet messed up some of my plans as I had planned to route my oil catch can to the inlet of the turbo to help it suck out any pressure getting past the rings, so now I'm just gonna put a filter on my oil catch can and exhaust to atmosphere. Not too much of a big deal.

More to come...

Things that are done(not a complete list):

-- BOE oil pan done..has a turbo oil drain, main reason why I bought it, plus local and used for $300.
-- Duetscheworks 700cc injectors installed...not sure if it'll be enough for power goals on e85, might need 1000cc
-- 265lph fuel pump done. Only hard part here was soldering new connector. Taking out passenger seat helps install procedure.
 

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I see both your intake and exhaust pointed downward under the factory bracing? Can you rotate the cool side and maybe a v-band exhaust outlet for more options?

By the way, I like you went tubular vs cast.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I see both your intake and exhaust pointed downward under the factory bracing? Can you rotate the cool side and maybe a v-band exhaust outlet for more options?

By the way, I like you went tubular vs cast.
No the exhaust is pointed towards the rear driver side wheel right now. With the downpipe installed it basically goes straight back out the car, but it's too long and the turbine housing is pointed slightly down. The exhaust shop will have to cut the downpipe after the flange and re-route it. A v-band would allow me to rotate the down pipe upwards so that would actually help, but the shop should be able to weld the piping any direction they need.

Can you go into more detail what you're suggesting? Rotate the cool side where?
 

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I'm seeing your intake piping will have to face the ground. I'm only advising against going below the rear sway bar and anything structural for anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm seeing your intake piping will have to face the ground. I'm only advising against going below the rear sway bar and anything structural for anything.
Basically I'm putting a 90 deg coupler directly on the outlet, go straight across and come up near the driver side axle. Looks like it should work without hitting anything or getting too low. Once the couplers arrive I can take pics.
 

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Basically I'm putting a 90 deg coupler directly on the outlet, go straight across and come up near the driver side axle. Looks like it should work without hitting anything or getting too low. Once the couplers arrive I can take pics.
Gotcha, again I'm impressed with the manifold and turbo selection so far!
 

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Nice build, in hindsight I think I should have gone turbo over supercharger. I like the supercharger but the build was SO much more money. My exhaust alone was over $2000, I could have done the whole turbo build for less then $2500! Instead it cost me closer to $5k.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Nice build, in hindsight I think I should have gone turbo over supercharger. I like the supercharger but the build was SO much more money. My exhaust alone was over $2000, I could have done the whole turbo build for less then $2500! Instead it cost me closer to $5k.
I think you can do a proper turbo build on this car for around $4k(after 2zz swap). I think that's about what I'm gonna end up with in the end. I think at $2.5k you are gonna be giving up a few things to save some $$.
 

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If you cut and flip the waste gate flange to the passenger side you can flip your turbo putting the intake side on the left. The exhaust is easier to run from the passenger side.

Where's the intercooler?
 

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I think you can do a proper turbo build on this car for around $4k(after 2zz swap). I think that's about what I'm gonna end up with in the end. I think at $2.5k you are gonna be giving up a few things to save some $$.
I already had a kit 90% complete for my matrix with a small ihi vf22 turbo for less then $1500. Just have to be patient and keep your eyes open for deals. You are right though $4k would get you a good setup. When I first bought my original greddy sc I paid $2400 on the kit and another $1k on buying stuff to get it running properly and reliably.

I made a huge mistake selling everything...stupid and costly.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you cut and flip the waste gate flange to the passenger side you can flip your turbo putting the intake side on the left. The exhaust is easier to run from the passenger side.

Where's the intercooler?
If I flip the turbine housing backwards so the compressor is on the driver side, I'm pretty sure it will hit the block with the angle the turbo manifold is sitting at. Also, routing oil/coolant lines to the turbo will be a lot harder even if it did fit.

Once I get the couplers I can take pics of the setup, harder to explain w/out pics. Basically the current plan is to put the a2w intercooler vertically near the lower cross member. If that doesn't work I'm gonna have to move the battery to the lower cross member and put intercooler where stock battery is.
 

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Im pretty sure .63 turbine is going to be too small for the 2ZZ when the big cam kicks on. It'll run like a top on the small cam but seem like a fuel cut on big cam. Something I would look into.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Im pretty sure .63 turbine is going to be too small for the 2ZZ when the big cam kicks on. It'll run like a top on the small cam but seem like a fuel cut on big cam. Something I would look into.
It's a T3 .63 not a T2 .64. Remember that a T3 .63 is slightly bigger than a T2 .86. If you actually look at a flow chart of a T3 .63 vs a T2 .86 the T3 actually flows better towards the top end which is where I'd want it. I could have gotten a T3 .82 but I figured it'd be way too damn big for such a small turbo and my goals of getting the 2860RS specifically for faster spool.
 

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It's a T3 .63 not a T2 .64. Remember that a T3 .63 is slightly bigger than a T2 .86. If you actually look at a flow chart of a T3 .63 vs a T2 .86 the T3 actually flows better towards the top end which is where I'd want it. I could have gotten a T3 .82 but I figured it'd be way too damn big for such a small turbo and my goals of getting the 2860RS specifically for faster spool.
All Im saying is that I would do some more research and look into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
All Im saying is that I would do some more research and look into it.
I've done quite a bit of research and have good knowledge in the area.

Think about it this way, Garrett doesn't even offer a T3 turbine housing for the GT28 series of turbos you can order as a kit. They only offer T2 turbines and the largest is a .86. Now, the T3 .63 is LARGER than a T2 .86, so I'm using a turbine housing outside the specs Garrett even recommends, but only by a little. I could have gone with a T3 .82 but that thing is super big, they are made for GT3071+ turbos. The 2871R and 2876R(which max out at .86 T2) are still bigger than the 2860RS so this is a small turbo w/a big turbine -- great combo for high revving motors like the 2zz.

The only concern is that I went too big and the turbo doesn't spool as fast as I would like, but shouldn't be as T2 .86 should be a great fit and this is only slightly larger so I feel comfortable using it.

-G
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Interested with how you'll route all the plumbing and exhaust.
me too! ;) Counting down the days until these damn couplers arrive. Exhaust I'm not sure about I'm hoping the shop I bring the car to can figure something out. Going with a Borla Pro XS muffler. I plan to give them the muffler and downpipe and say "here, make this work" and then run away.
 

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To the O.P., if your interested, I believe there was a guy on Lotussport that routed the compressor the way your thinking (screen name maine lotus) under the axle. He ended up going back to a more conventional route but I can't remember the reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
To the O.P., if your interested, I believe there was a guy on Lotussport that routed the compressor the way your thinking (screen name maine lotus) under the axle. He ended up going back to a more conventional route but I can't remember the reason.
I searched for it but looks like lotussport.org requires registration to view anything. Also, not going under the axle. (EDIT:: Actually, looked at it again today and I am going 'underneath' the axle, but not literally, but the tube will sit a little lower than the driver side rear axle). My idea may not even work, I need those couplers!!
 

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"here, make this work" and then run away.
This method usually never works. Its basically throwing money at a problem and hoping it goes away. :biggrin-new:

Also watch out with going under anything that can move up and down independent of the body like axles and suspension arms.
 
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