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Discussion Starter #1
Its a bit difficult looking for the right thread to read. I was looking for threads regarding cars that have been successfully, and reliably, modified their turboed 1zz/2zz spyders to 300 whp+ levels. I'm not very mechanically inclined and articles like the "Power Quest" sticky can be very complicated for my understanding. Any advice on where to look?
 

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300 whp and reliable is a very very small club. There are a lot of cars that can make 300 but few that can live there for any amount of time.

To do so you need a turbo kit large enough to support it, excellent tuning and to make it live you absolutely need a J&S safeguard.
 

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Its a bit difficult looking for the right thread to read. I was looking for threads regarding cars that have been successfully, and reliably, modified their turboed 1zz/2zz spyders to 300 whp+ levels. I'm not very mechanically inclined and articles like the "Power Quest" sticky can be very complicated for my understanding. Any advice on where to look?
Try to find an honest, competent mechanic/tuner and give him your checkbook!
This is the sort of question that should have been asked and researched before spending a wad of money on your mods (http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?48323-Review-Monkey-Wrench-Racing-1zz-Turbo-Kit-(Pics)&p=787769&highlight=#post787769).
 

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Very true words. A few years back I built a 1zz turbo car for a customer. He has put over 40k miles running 15 psi of boost and near stock timing on a junk yard motor. His words are "I can't break it and I have tried." $15k bill on that car....
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Frankly, I'm somewhat confused.
I thought you were building a Show Car, not something to actually drive.

Maybe I've got you confused with another owner.
Aren't you the fellow with the red velvet & carbon fibre interior, killer audio system, body kit, super expensive custom-carved wheels, and too-tall tires?
Haha yes I am one and the same guy :)

This question was not intended for my current car, which is already completed and intended mainly for show.

I have modified four previous cars spending quite a lot on all of them, yet none of them have been as much fun and as rewarding as my current MR2 Spyder. I'm in love with our cars! So I've already started making plans on building a second one but this time with power in mind. This will be after I successfully entice a few "oil sheikhs" into buying my current MR2 showcar for the right price.

If the offer is worthwhile I should have enough to build a powerful enough 2zz with all the necessary safety add-ons. I've already done a lot of research for my 1zz MWR turbo kit and learnt on the way. What I am sure of is reliability is very much possible given the right mods for the car, a clean or rebuilt engine, solid internals, very good tune, J&S, all the warning gauges, cooling ad-ons, as well as 2 very important factors to consider in a hot place like Dubai. First is to make sure its all installed by one reputable and highly-experienced workshop who also will tune the car, and second is to do what most people tend not to.. That is to lower the boost by a couple of PSI to what the turbo kit is rated to do.

Matt and others on this site recommended that I tune my current car with the MWR turbo kit to 8 psi (stock internals 1zz).. I'm currently running the car at 6-7 psi max after spending 2 days and $800 tuning it on a Mustang dyno. Car runs perfect and even if I floor it during the day in 110 degree heat I never have any over-heating problems..

But then again this IS a showcar.. I rarely ever push the engine and only drive it on the weekends.

So heres my question.. Lets say I purchase a stock MR2, send it to a workshop like MWR or someone experienced like that. Get everything installed, including a built 2zz, their 2zz turbo kit, all add-ons, etc. and have it finally tuned by them with a conservative boost.. Wouldn’t that be as reliable as possible for turbo-charged 2zz?
 

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The headers and engine mounts they were buying are no longer being sold for the 2gr swap.

I agree that this is the swap to do. Find Gouky on one of the several mr2 boards and see if he will take on the swap. He is the one who made this swap so popular and the only one who can get the right parts for you. Paul woods is a great person to do the swap as well but I do not know if he has any spare swap parts.

The car would have to be shipped to the northern US. I am currently doing the 2GR swap on my car however I slowly doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
After reading that you are thinking of going to the expense of shipping the car overseas to get the work done....

Plus you not being mechanicly inclined, wanting it reliable, being in the heat you live in, not having a mechanic used to the car, or engine, or ECU... I would really consider the 2gr swap done by Woodsport in England, they have done several. They get around 275 RWHP and 300 ft/lbs torque., use a stock ECU, bulletproof E153 trans.

Here is a link to an article on another website, you will have to register to read it but they have done the swap in numerous mk11 mr2's and one or two mk3's/Spyders.

without looking further into the expenses you will be paying I would really consider going with the 2gr and E153 trans swap mainly for realiability. It is a stock enginewith nearly the power you are lookingfor and probably more torque than a turbo'd 2zz with 300 hp. Plus it will hve astronge trans.

Here is link:

http://www.twobrutal.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?18471-2gr-fe-Roadster-
build&highlight=2grfe

You will have to registar n the forum to read it.
Thanks grumpy.. I've actualy considered doing a 2GR swap but like you said its not common. I've also considered a K20 Honda swap but thats also very complicated. I'll read on both of them more yo get some idea.
 

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[quote=
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If Woodsport does the swap it would not be complicated. Since they have already done 1 or 2 Spyders, numerous Mk2 Mr2's and a couple Mk1"s they have the templates for what needs to be fabbed up, how the lines need to be run, how the mounts need to be built, intake and exhaust needs to be and so forth, for the Spyder. The engine is stock short of the swap parts, the trarns is tock and been shown to hold up to 500+ hp in other cars. The engine is a stock Rav 4, Camery, mini van engine. Just put in a car that is 1/2 to 2/3 the weight of these other cars ithe 2gr came in originally. A stock engine (stck ECU) and trans is much less complicaterd than a highly modified turbo'd 2zz or a K20 with an aftermarket ECU, that needs custom tuning. Once the 2gr is swapped in and running correctly it is simply a stock Camery engine with an aftermarket intake and exhaust, with a stronger stock trans.
That is very informative! But wouldn't this all require a lot of custom work to fit the V6 in? like cutting through the firewall etc? Also I was looking for a lot more power than the stock rated 269 bhp on the 2GR. So eventually I would have to upgrade the engine and have it tuned with a standalone ECU, etc. Wouldn't it be better to get a K20 and do the same? (K-series Honda engines are very popular in Dubai and theres a lot of know-how among mechanics)

Let me ask you this.. If money was no object, and you wanted to make well over 300 whp on your MRS reliably, what would you do? 2GR with all the necessary mods?


2GR-FE 2005- 3,456 cc (3.456 L; 210.9 cu in) (94.0x83.0mm) V6 273 PS (201 kW; 269 hp)@6200, 333 N·m (246 lb·ft)@4700

The 2GR-FE is a 3.5 L (3456 cc) version for transverse FWD mounting. Bore remains at 94 mm but stroke is reduced to 83 mm. Reported output varies depending on the vehicle application, but is approximately 266 hp (198 kW) to 275 hp (205 kW) at 6200 rpm with 245 lb·ft (332 N·m) to 257 lb·ft (348 N·m)of torque at 4700 rpm on 87 octane (R+M/2). This version features Toyota's Dual VVT-i, variable valve timing on both the intake and exhaust cams. Valves are driven by roller-follower rocker arms with low friction roller bearings, and a unique, concave cam lobe design to increase valve lift over the traditional shimless lifter type system of the 1GR-FE. This increases overall cylinder head height to accommodate the slightly taller roller rocker system. Moreover, the cylinder head is segmented into 3 parts: valve cover, camshaft sub-assembly housing, and cylinder head sub-assembly. As such, this valvetrain is used across all other GR engines with Dual VVT-i. Its service weight is 163 kg.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Grumpy. I really appreciate the advice. I think I'll consider the 2GR if I can find someone in the US who is experienced with that swap or willing to do it. I'm sure with mild upgrades I can achieve the 300whp I'm looking for.

If I don't find a reputable mechanic to do the K20 or 2GR swap (any one willing or know someone?) then I'll just consider going all out with a built new 2zz swap and MWR turbo kit with all the right parts to keep it as safe as possible.. After all its going to be strictly a weekend car and raced a couple times a year during the cooler winters.. I only cruise on weekends and rarely floor it!
 

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Don't worry more power can be made out of the 2gr very easily. I happen to know some crazy guy in florida working on making 1200 hp out the engine. It has already been proven possible by some crazy guys in the AU. If that's not enough for you I suggest checking into the crazy bin.

Have Paul Woods do the "hard" part the wiring, and physical mounting of the engine into the car. Then when you think the power is not enough give Carlos at forwardperformanceinc a call. He will build you something crazy enginewise. We were bouncing ideas around for a good 8 hours. Using two EFR turbos even the small ones with a built bottom end bored out engine that's sleeved, upgraded head 600 is in easy reach. The issues would be gearing, and the head. The valvetrain on the 2gr is not very happy at high revs to say the least. The gears being so short you will top out fast very fast. Spinning tires in 4th isn't as fun as it sounds.

In stock form you will spin tires in 3rd with a e153 that's unmodified already. Engine needs more revs but you will need some special ecu for that. Thankfully Carlos is also working on something that can handle up to 15 psi.
 

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Stupid banker question: Wouldn't the extra weight of the 2gr throw the handling off and make the rear bias a lot worse?
 

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[quote=
 

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There are ways to compensate for the weight. There is a racing series in Great Briton that has 3-5 Spyders with the 2gr racing in it, for example, who figured out how to make it work.

IIRC it adds around 100lbs - 120lbs to the rear for the 2GR an E153 trans compared to the 1zz with C56.
Or just 40 or so pounds more then a fully sorted out turbo 1zz/2zz setup. You would be surprised how heavy a turbo weighs. Even if you are making the same power number, which in my case would be true. The 2gr has so much low end grunt that you forget about the turbo. Now if you become even dumber and want a snail oh my.

As mentioned there is something in development set to hit the market in a few months. The part I'm excited about is a good dry sump in the works. Looking at the oil pan design and thinking what will be done to the car is what scares me.
 

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