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Discussion Starter #1
I have the PPE race header with test pipe to Che Lotus Exhaust (newer dual canister)

And I had Paul over at PPE also make me a Single o2 harness for the two top o2 sensors and now just installed a new oem o2 sensor on the test pipe. Couple miles afterwards I got a P0420 and managed to clear it with a 90 degree anti fouler found on ebay. Great, the code goes away and 70 miles later I get a P0136. What can I do to clear it?

I did search and found a couple threads but no luck with turning the cel off for me.

Thanks
 

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Are you using a "OEM" sensor. I had the same issue with my PPE setup until I switched to a OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Come on Triz, I know your in Fort Liquordale with Mateo and Justin, How often do you goto Hollywierd with those guys?:confused::lol:

Read again where I have 2 new OEM Sensors :cool:
 

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136 is Sensor MalfunctionB1S2 ( After Cat ).. Sounds like no Sig from the Sensor.. or I'm Wondering if it's not Enough Sig..

Get rid of the 90 Deg and See if the 420 comes back.. If so, then use two of the Straights.. with one drilled out..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, will buy those tonight a nd give it a try.

I don't know if the the two straight ones will work because the test pipe bung is facing the rear bumper cover hence why I have the 90 degree. I can't cut/drill/ weld (I am a welder) because I have the test pipe ceramic coated...

Thanks again Cap, your help is always appreciated!
 

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Why are you using antifoulers? the PPE set-up should have came with a resistor for the post cat sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The header and test pipe came to me used with loads of surface rust, I had to do a mini restoration of sanding and re welding of the hangers, add new gaskets and fix some warps in the header plate (I have a true flat block at work) and took it to get ceramic coated.

Nothing else came with it, Had to purchase the harness for the top two sensors from Paul at ppe and had him do it the revised way. Then went out and got a new o2 sensor for the post cat.

What do you mean a resistor for the post cat anyways?

Thanks Tophermack
 

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The Resistor will only kill the heater complaint of the ECU.. used when the PPE Sig is Split, on the header....

It has some use in the Post Cat Sensor removal process.. but a few more components are needed..

There are a few electrical ways you can eliminate the 420 code.. some work better than others..

Cap
 

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That is right cap, but that is not the resistor I'm talking about. When you buy the kit from ppe there is a small black resistor that splices in line with the post cat o2 sensor signal wire and fools the ecu into thinking there is less o2 than there really is.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ill go ahead and email Paul at PPE but I already bought the spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
is their a wall of shame for not tightening the o2 sensor?
 

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So it was a loose o2 sensor? I had code 420, bought a straight anti-fouler and the code went away. Now I have the P0136!!! Running a magnaflow hi flow cat.
 

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Can't be exhaust leak as I have had my magnaflow cat on for about 2 years with no code. I wonder if I need a new oxygen sensor? Is there an oxygen sensor simulator out there somewhere???
 

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Can't be exhaust leak as I have had my magnaflow cat on for about 2 years with no code...

... I wonder if I need a new oxygen sensor? Is there an oxygen sensor simulator out there somewhere???
By that logic, there could never be a leak. If you didn't have one yesterday, you can't have one today. :icon_lol:

I don't think that there is any accurate test for an O2 sensor, except to replace with new and see if there is a difference.
 

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Look for soot building up on the flex joint, where the flex joint meets the DP, or seams leading up to flex joint...it was hard to spot on my downpipe but I had a leak at the flex. I had to take the header and DP off and apart to see it clearly. One way to be sure is take it apart, inspect and put back together with fresh OEM gaskets, then go to replacing sensors. In my limited experience going through a run of bad sensors on my car...Denso replacement sensors are just as good as OEM.

A qualitative way to look at an O2 sensor being bad is to watch the results in real time with an ODB reader and see what the downstream sensor is reporting in relation to the two upstream sensors. Downstream should be pretty constant at steady RPM, after warming the main cat up. Both upstreams should be basically doing the same thing with some delay and difference between the two. Taking the car into a shop to have an experienced mechanic watch the O2 sensors from startup can be helpful, as they've likely seen enough to give you a good start in the right direction. I drove mine down a section of road that I could keep the RPM constant at cruising for several minutes and glanced at my phone's ODB app to get mine nailed down. Good luck!

Just my two cents, take with a grain of salt :D
 

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SOLVED! Solution: cleaned carbon buildup off end of O2 sensor and check engine light is now off.
 
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