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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I am writing a simple guide with a parts list to replace the bushing that attaches the knuckle to what I believe to be called the trailing arm.

Background:

I had a clunking noise coming from the rear of the car. Turns out it was the bushing in the knuckle to where the trailing arm connects. I called Toyota and all they sell is the knuckle itself for 200 dollars. Not quite what I wanted to hear. So I scoured Napa's site and came across 2 bushings that will work perfectly.

The first is:

Part Number: NCP 2674495
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
Attributes:
Dimension A O.D. : 1.43"
Dimension B I.D. : .48"
Dimension C Length : 1.96"
Dimension D Length : 1.58"
Dimension E Length : .19"


This is the bushing that I used. The reason I chose this one over the one listed below is because it's half the price.

Part Number: NCP 2674520
Product Line: NAPA Chassis Parts
Attributes:
Dimension A O.D. : 1.43"
Dimension B I.D. : .48"
Dimension C Length : 1.97"
Dimension D Length : 1.15"
Dimension E Length : .41"

This bushing is actually a better fit, but twice the price of around 25 bucks. Since the first bushing actually has more metal surface area and is cheaper, I went with it.


To remove the bushing:

Remove the knuckle from the car (not necessarily a must, you could potentially do this job with everything still attached).

Remove bushing. I used an air chisel. Other methods can include a press and using a socket with a hammer.

To install new bushing:

Make sure not to use force on the center metal piece while installing.

Grab a socket and use it to on the outer portion of the bushing to hammer it in. You can also use a press or any other viable method.

Reinstall knuckle and done. You now have spent 12 dollars to replace a bad bushing VS a minimum of 200 from toyota.



Here is the finished product.



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For reference the stock bushing size is:

Dimension A O.D. : 1.43"
Dimension B I.D. : .48"
Dimension C Length : 1.96"
Dimension D Length : 1.025"
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)

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I'll see your thread resurrection, and raise you an additional part number. :D

Thanks for this great guide...I just bought the Napa part listed above, but decided to see if the Moog K200034 Control Arm Bushing part available on Amazon was really the same size and quality. I did some cross-referencing from the Napa part to find the Moog part. They are identical in every dimension.

So, I put the Napa part in the outer lower control arm on the passenger side, and the Moog part on the driver's side. They both work great. The Moog part on Amazon was under $8 with free shipping. The Napa part was just under $20 after shipping. So, Amazon for the win.


Now if anyone knows what the p/n is for the bushing in the forward side of the axle carrier, that would be great. :)
 

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That pn and dimensional data are valuable. Metal-bonded-rubber bushings for replacement are a disappearing purchased item, but we know they are out there. There is the alternative of prothane (plastic) duplicates or in 2 piece clamshell, but they are not cheap and are known to squeak.

Another method which seems preferable to hammering is using a short piece of threaded rod readily available or even a long bolt with several inches of thread. Selection of the extractor/ assembler tube sizes is important (sockets or pipe). One must support the suspension piece "eye," while the other must sit exactly on the metal OD of the bushing. Use backup washers and oil the threads. Such a set up may often be held in a vise which makes the job easier. Both removal and assembly can be done. Slow pulling via such a setup or with a press is preferable to hammer blows, when possible. Another tip is warm the OD and cool the bushing just before assembly.

Recently I removed both bushings of a rear link to be sure of ordering properly (large dia) ,and found them to be in functional condition. They were removed and examined , then re-assembled via the technique above. Careful selection of the bushing OD tube will avoid damage to rubber.
 

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i need help with this pleaseeeee mr 2 spyder 2001

knuckle bushing rear left and right 20190104_130023.jpg
my question is i need to buy the whole knukle or they sell the bushing separate omg dont tell me that the bushing come with the whole knuckle '




'.[
 

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can you please explained to me pleaseeeeee?


i call the dealer today and they said to me that the bushing come with the whole knuckle
If you're not able to read and comprehend this thread, then your best move is to buy the knuckle from the dealer.
 

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I'll see your thread resurrection, and raise you an additional part number. :D

Thanks for this great guide...I just bought the Napa part listed above, but decided to see if the Moog K200034 Control Arm Bushing part available on Amazon was really the same size and quality. I did some cross-referencing from the Napa part to find the Moog part. They are identical in every dimension.

So, I put the Napa part in the outer lower control arm on the passenger side, and the Moog part on the driver's side. They both work great. The Moog part on Amazon was under $8 with free shipping. The Napa part was just under $20 after shipping. So, Amazon for the win.


Now if anyone knows what the p/n is for the bushing in the forward side of the axle carrier, that would be great. :)
can i use the bushing that you bouth in amazon for the 2 reAR left and righ knuckle?https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K200034-Control-Arm-Bushing/dp/B002M6L9I2
20190104_130023.jpg
 

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I bought the NAPA part like you had said and it’s 12 thousandths bigger in overall diameter. Did anyone have this issue? What did you do?
 
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