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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did a few heavy shifts this past week and managed to snap off the studs in the aluminum motor mount bracket. Anybody else managed to do this or have any input why these would snap off? There really shouldn't be any extra torque since all that goes through the front and rear mounts. The side shouldn't be experiencing an extra loading from the extra engine power.

Here's a pic of how it should look (red markings indicate the face the studs snapped off of.

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I did a few heavy shifts this past week and managed to snap off the studs in the aluminum motor mount bracket. Anybody else managed to do this or have any input why these would snap off? There really shouldn't be any extra torque since all that goes through the front and rear mounts. The side shouldn't be experiencing an extra loading from the extra engine power.

Here's a pic of how it should look (red markings indicate the face the studs snapped off of.

View attachment 92456
I’ve never heard of this happening. Are your front and rear mounts in good shape and solid? I could see this happening on a high power car that has front and rear mount that are loose. But then again you would probably hear the engine/trans jumping around in the worn out mounts before this happened if that was the case. Im also wondering if there’s any possibility that the nut may have backed off and loosened itself beforehand? Fasteners loosening off is an issue my high power Honda friends have with their cars. This might be a good question for the boosted mr-s group on Facebook. Some of those guys are running soo much power through their cars that all sorts of parts are breaking or loosening themselves off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’ve never heard of this happening. Are your front and rear mounts in good shape and solid? I could see this happening on a high power car that has front and rear mount that are loose. But then again you would probably hear the engine/trans jumping around in the worn out mounts before this happened if that was the case. Im also wondering if there’s any possibility that the nut may have backed off and loosened itself beforehand? Fasteners loosening off is an issue my high power Honda friends have with their cars. This might be a good question for the boosted mr-s group on Facebook. Some of those guys are running soo much power through their cars that all sorts of parts are breaking or loosening themselves off.
Thanks! Ill ping them. Best guess so far is that maybe the nuts worked loose and the engine rocking HCF'ed them until they just snapped. I just ordered the MWR bracket. Hopefully that keeps the issue from repeating. The front and rear mounts need to be replaced but primarily due to the amount of movement the rubber allows not really failing yet. Some slight cracking at one spot.
 

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MR-2 ZZW30 2001 RHD
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I think such a failure would only happen with a loose nut causing the stud to get cyclic loading.
I would think you would pull the threads out of the aluminium before breaking the stud from tensile load.

I have had the threads pulled out of the mount on my Corolla (the other side of that aluminium piece, the alu insert of the hydro mount), but this was only a single bolt.
No problems since I helicoiled the alu insert.
 

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I had a strange situation recently where my bolts on my 2zz mount backed themselves out at a track day. All my other motor mounts are aftermarket, idk why I did not do this one, I think oem mount failed (lots of play) and eventually backed them out. Just got innovative mount to replace oem. Bolts were in tact and re-mounted them and held for the remainder of the event. Other MR-S owners said this was a frequent occurrence having these fail.
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A stiffer mount will put more stress on the bolts, not less. It is also possible that the OEM mount is shot and was bottoming-out causing high impact loading, or the fasteners were not properly torqued. I see that someone stripped out the chassis bolt (on the right in the picture). Also the pass-side OEM mount is the most critical one in terms of transmitting vibration to the cabin.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I had a strange situation recently where my bolts on my 2zz mount backed themselves out at a track day. All my other motor mounts are aftermarket, idk why I did not do this one, I think oem mount failed (lots of play) and eventually backed them out. Just got innovative mount to replace oem. Bolts were in tact and re-mounted them and held for the remainder of the event. Other MR-S owners said this was a frequent occurrence having these fail.
View attachment 92584
That fender well bolt is coming through fron the wrong side. Do you have a nut on the other side?
 

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Oh, well that's alarming. Must have messed that up during the swap, and no there is no nut on the other side. I just installed the new Innovative mount the same way, I will have to fix this and find a corresponding nut...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There is no nut. Its supposed to bolt in from the wheel well through the sheet metal and into the bracket
 

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Even better. I have to go back in there anyway because the Innovative mount comes with a bolt that is not long enough for the thick MWR 2zz engine mount bracket, so I have to get another. Photo for reference
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I sheared the stud of a kswap mount. The motor tilted, coolant hose came loose and car overheated. Added the mount between engine/trans and firewall and no issues since.



 

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Nordlock+spring nuts! My turbo mounting studs kept coming out and this fixed it. Also used nordlock on my 5bolt outlet flange and they are still hanging on
I am pretty sure the bolt actually broke. It would have been hard for the full length bolt to have walked out of that mount just due to how I have stuff mounted there. But a half length or maybe 3/4 length bolt may have made it.
 

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Oh, well that's alarming. Must have messed that up during the swap, and no there is no nut on the other side. I just installed the new Innovative mount the same way, I will have to fix this and find a corresponding nut...
That is why I assumed the captive nut was stripped and the fix was to drill-out the nut and bolt-through. If you put the nut on inner fender, use a decent-sized washer.
 
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