Double post

 

$200 an hour labor rate. That's a lot of tools. Snap-on tools that is!

 

Only thing unreliable is the shop you took your car to. Malian catless exhaust? Was that necessary to you? Does it sound necessary? That's a choice/preference. I can put new wheels on my car, but it's not fair to say because of that the car is unreliable. You did a lot of random maintenance and upgrades just because someone told you to and/or you wanted to mod. Car itself had little to do with it.
And $200 is dealer rates, like BMW. The whole point of going to a non dealer shop is lower rates, so you might as well just go to the dealer at that price.

You just spent enough to creep into S2000 prices by the way...

 

Only thing unreliable is the shop you took your car to. Malian catless exhaust? Was that necessary to you? Does it sound necessary? That's a choice/preference. I can put new wheels on my car, but it's not fair to say because of that the car is unreliable. You did a lot of random maintenance and upgrades just because someone told you to and/or you wanted to mod. Car itself had little to do with it.
And $200 is dealer rates, like BMW. The whole point of going to a non dealer shop is lower rates, so you might as well just go to the dealer at that price.

You just spent enough to creep into S2000 prices by the way...

I don’t go to a dealer. I use a place called Xtreme Auto. And no, the exhaust wasn’t necessary but I wanted it for myself.

 

Yeah we are saying at that price you could. Even the Porsche dealer here doesn't charge the equivalent of $200 USD/hr

 

Honestly I've seen a lot of people satisfied with the local P car dealer and the one Toyota shop I work with. They do good, accurate work. But you do pay a premium.

 

“When a person with money meets a person with experience, the one with experience ends up with the money and the one with money leaves with experience.”

 

I bought a rebuilt with 74k miles for $7,200, less than a month ago. I've already spent about $400 on new tires, but that's been about it.

I'm not going to tell you what mostly everyone here's been telling you, but I will note that a few of the items you've paid for, don't require you to turn your garage into an autoshop.

For example:
-Antifreeze line leak: $300
There's plenty of resources on YouTube and on this forum that would have saved you at least $200 on repairing a line leak. Depending on where the leak is, all you would of needed would be some $5 to $10 pliers.

-Ignition Coils: $227

A screw drivers and OEM ignition coils.

-Indicator light wiring: $181

There are electrical wiring diagrams available that could have assisted.

-Mass Airflow Sensor: $434

The cost of the MAF sensor and a screw driver.

-New Battery (12/22): $169

Was the previous battery even bad? Was it tested?

-Outlet Coolant Hose: $593

Again, probably just some pliers to remove the hose and add a new one

-Car door lights: $20

Not too sure what lights because my doors don't have any lights.

Overall, any car with over 110k miles on body would require some work. Buying tools and working on your car shouldn't be a problem for any parent, so long as you're cleaning up, but that's a whole nother subject.

 

Do you have an interest in learning on how to care for stuff yourself?

Hit Youtube, go to your local Harbor Freight, pick up some parts and you can definitely take this experience and learn from it and also become a handy mechanic yourself. But you have to want to learn how to fix these things .

 

hmmm u much change shop. i owned 3 1zz mr2 cars , each one with more than 180k on the clock
(now i have my 4th - bought with 72k now have 105k on the clock) .
besides upgrades and track days (tires, pads, oil changes, coilovers etc) i had no problems what so ever.
i run maf mode and full exaust and for the last 20k only oil changes and 10$ spark plugs. Mr2 is a very light and economical car...
also u can buy some 2nd hand staff like injectors, maf, indicators etc....

 

First off, get a new mechanic. With the next one, ask for proof of why things need to be replaced before signing off on anything. Find a different mechanic if they are not willing to show you what is wrong, or give an explanation. Get a second opinion on anything major.


Did he give you a clear reason why you needed a new MAF and injectors? Were they cleaned before replacing? Most problems with a MAF can be solved by just cleaning it. MAF cleaner for about $10 bucks. It takes just a few minutes to pull and spray it. I'd like to know what he saw that lead him to replace it.

For 1400 bucks I'd expect each injector to have been cleaned and a report of their flow rates and why they all needed to be replaced, and then $700 in credit for the next issue. It's likely that at most only one failed / clogged.

For the price you paid in Exhaust leaks you could have bought a brand new ebay cat back. You replaced the headers and cat, so that would give you a brand new exhaust.

 

I am curious about this.
Bee R rev limiter: $81

Who suggested this to you?

 

I am curious about this.
Bee R rev limiter: $81

Who suggested this to you?

No brainer really, I mean how else does one shoot flames on a 138 crank hp engine in a parking lot? Gotta burn that new cat right out the tailpipe so you can give your hostage takers another $2100 for the next one asap [emoji95][emoji378][emoji95][emoji41]

 

These replies are out of line. You may have slightly overpaid for the car but not by that much. Shops all charge $125+/hr now book time with marked up parts. There unfortunately is no way around high repair bills unless you do the work yourself. It's an old car my friend and all old cars have failures. All of them, even Toyotas. Fairly reliable platform overall but it appears you have had some bad luck, sorry. Hope it gets better. You have way more invested than you'll ever get back so may as well stick with it and enjoy it for several years.

 

Rates really depend on where you are. They are high where the general cost of living is high, and vice versa.

 

This is my seventh random post on the way to ten, so I can list my car for sale in the classifieds. I don't make the rules, ya know. Nothing to see here, don't mind me...

I will say, however, that when I do get to post my classified ad, I will only be asking a little more for The Frog than the cost of this one, but for a car that is in MUCH better shape.
OP, I'm sorry about your troubles. Not rubbing it in, just trying for those ten silly forum posts. I really am sorry about all that outlay.

 

So you have joined the forum simply to sell your car, at zero cost to yourself, but are bitching about having to make 10 posts to do so?

 

I hate to see people pay so much in repairs. It can be deflating for someone who is a new enthusiast. My suggestion is to watch YouTube repair videos and invest in tools. There are plenty of videos related to the 1zz on simple maintenance which will save you money and aid you in a new skill.

 

Getting the manual and some basic tools it's a great start.

 

 

...

Maybe he forgot which one of his multiple accounts he was trolling with. I would have thought you would have gotten good at spotting these by now. On the other hand, maybe the site admins are willing to tolerate troll posting if it leads to more page views.

 

Has the car been posted for sale yet? I remember the username. Possibly corrupted?

 

Has the post count incremented yet. It ought to be 176 by now or higher.

 

ya a douchbag thing to post...you could at least offer some helpful advise...sheez

 

Bought my spyder for $12,900 at 55k miles. I’ve spent $7783 in maintenance costs in one year of owning the car. What am I doing wrong? Why is my car so unreliable?
This is what I’ve spent on the car:


-Initial Car Cost: $12,900

-New catalytic converter: $2,100
-Parking Brake: $400
-Antifreeze line leak: $300
-Ignition Coils: $227
-Fuel Injectors: $1,400
-Shocks and Struts: $834
-Indicator light wiring: $181
-Malian catless downpipe: $260
-Bee R rev limiter: $81
-Emissions: $300
-Mass Airflow Sensor: $434
-Exhaust fix: $336
-Exhaust fix 2: $133
-New Battery (12/22): $169
-Battery Terminals: $15
-Outlet Coolant Hose: $593
-Car door lights: $20

The previous owner blew the engine at 110k miles and replaced it with a factory 1zz engine with 55k miles. The precats were the reason it blew from my knowledge. The new engine had the precats removed.

The worst part is I’m not even done with repairs. I have an EVAP leak, peeling clear coat on my side mirrors, deep scratches on the front and rear bumpers, fluids need to be changed, and my headlights are fogged up.

I should also mention everything has been done at a autoshop. I have minimal mechanic ability and almost no tools.

Bought my spyder for $12,900 at 55k miles. I’ve spent $7783 in maintenance costs in one year of owning the car. What am I doing wrong? Why is my car so unreliable?
This is what I’ve spent on the car:


-Initial Car Cost: $12,900

-New catalytic converter: $2,100
-Parking Brake: $400
-Antifreeze line leak: $300
-Ignition Coils: $227
-Fuel Injectors: $1,400
-Shocks and Struts: $834
-Indicator light wiring: $181
-Malian catless downpipe: $260
-Bee R rev limiter: $81
-Emissions: $300
-Mass Airflow Sensor: $434
-Exhaust fix: $336
-Exhaust fix 2: $133
-New Battery (12/22): $169
-Battery Terminals: $15
-Outlet Coolant Hose: $593
-Car door lights: $20

The previous owner blew the engine at 110k miles and replaced it with a factory 1zz engine with 55k miles. The precats were the reason it blew from my knowledge. The new engine had the precats removed.

The worst part is I’m not even done with repairs. I have an EVAP leak, peeling clear coat on my side mirrors, deep scratches on the front and rear bumpers, fluids need to be changed, and my headlights are fogged up.

I should also mention everything has been done at a autoshop. I have minimal mechanic ability and almost no tools.

My heart goes out to you my friend.
Honestly this doesn't sound like outrageous prices for my area if your going to a repair shop or dealership. I work at a dealership. A lot of people are commenting that the prices are outrageous but they are doing the work themselves. I would have found 13k in this market with a 55k mile engine to be fair, assuming it was done correctly.... Anytime you buy a car, take it to a mechanic before closing the deal to make sure the car is mechanically sound. When your looking at 20 something year old cars (don't know your specific year), it should be expected to have major repairs and costs. If you can't (because of parents or skill level) do the work yourself it's going to be $$$$$$, and continue to be so. However, considering your already so much money in, I do recommend learning to do your own work. Buy some basic tools and keep them in your room. Work on the car in a parking lot. Luckily, your 18 and do live with your parents so you dont have to worry about rent on top of this. I definitely wouldn't move out with this vehicle. Maybe get a 2nd car for rialiablitiy. My suggestions:

1. Sell the car and get a newer reliable car 2020 or newer. Make payments. Not fun at 18,but it will build your credit and give you stability while you get economicaly setup. Think missing class, work, being stranded, having future rent due and car repairs. It's not an ideal situation for 18 starting life.

2. Buy a 2nd car that is reliable and keep this one and make the repairs as you can or learn to work on it yourself. Maybe find a friend who will let you use the garage or keep the tools in your room. I used to use parking lots.

You can absolutely work on your car if it's your desire. Mr2 are a car that is ripe for learning. They are a good entry level into auto mechanics. My Mr2 brought me into the automotive industry amd i knew nothing. I wish you the best!

 

My heart goes out to you my friend.
Honestly this doesn't sound like outrageous prices for my area if your going to a repair shop or dealership. I work at a dealership. A lot of people are commenting that the prices are outrageous but they are doing the work themselves. I would have found 13k in this market with a 55k mile engine to be fair, assuming it was done correctly.... Anytime you buy a car, take it to a mechanic before closing the deal to make sure the car is mechanically sound. When your looking at 20 something year old cars (don't know your specific year), it should be expected to have major repairs and costs. If you can't (because of parents or skill level) do the work yourself it's going to be $$$$$$, and continue to be so. However, considering your already so much money in, I do recommend learning to do your own work. Buy some basic tools and keep them in your room. Work on the car in a parking lot. Luckily, your 18 and do live with your parents so you dont have to worry about rent on top of this. I definitely wouldn't move out with this vehicle. Maybe get a 2nd car for rialiablitiy. My suggestions:

1. Sell the car and get a newer reliable car 2020 or newer. Make payments. Not fun at 18,but it will build your credit and give you stability while you get economicaly setup. Think missing class, work, being stranded, having future rent due and car repairs. It's not an ideal situation for 18 starting life.

2. Buy a 2nd car that is reliable and keep this one and make the repairs as you can or learn to work on it yourself. Maybe find a friend who will let you use the garage or keep the tools in your room. I used to use parking lots.

You can absolutely work on your car if it's your desire. Mr2 are a car that is ripe for learning. They are a good entry level into auto mechanics. My Mr2 brought me into the automotive industry amd i knew nothing. I wish you the best!

I have a question for you that is more of a curiosity. How much would have been too much. He spent around $7k in repairs. At which point monetarily would he have overspent by your estimation.

 

Wow I’ve owned my spyder over 8 years and it’s got 150k and all I’ve had to do to it in that time frame was replace the alternator brake pads/rotors, spray the maf with maf cleaner and fix the flex pipe on the aftermarket exhaust but now mine is turbocharged so there’s no flex pipe. I drive it more than my other cars too.

 

That is because you probably bought a good one and maintained it like I did. There are a lot of neglected examples that people buy out of desperation with a lot of issues that are coming to the surface giving this car an undeserved reputation.
So many cars that have exchanged hands with less deserving owners that have abuse them. I dread the day if my car is totaled and have to look for a replacement because it will be a depressing experience trying to find a good example at the right price.

 

Are you guys looking at his list of fixes? Some of them are choices/mods. Others are things you would do to a 20+ year old car because it's a 20+ year old car. And of course you have his shop throwing parts at the car for likely little to no reason other then I imagine the owner drives a nice ass McLaren. I maybe could understand "transmission went out" or "rod knock issues" but of the things he's pointed out he overpaid even if he lived in the nicest penthouse in NYC/SF. And the prices are all over the place. Some look like they just charged for parts and others look like the entire staff worked on the car including the receptionist. He's complaining about peeling clearcoat and scratches...yeah, you need an experienced master mechanic to diagnose things like that. I saw a car on fire once, but had to call the fire department...not to put it out, but to confirm it was on fire. I'm not a trained firefighter after all. But don't worry, he clearly stated he's not stupid.

 

If they did any of the parking brake cables for $400, that would be more than fair considering how much is in the way.

 

Funniest MR2 meme I’ve ever seen.

 

Unless that was lifting the center console to adjust them. Which seems more in line with the rest of the pricing.