[Noelellacy]

You have a give or take 20 year old car that previously had a blown engine. Let me ask you something, if going somewhere and renting a car, would you rent a 20 year old car? No? Why not? List the reasons. The same reasons apply to your car that you bought. If you wouldn't rent it, you certainly shouldn't buy it. If you have to rely on someone else for the care and maintenance of the car, and you are not able to source the parts yourself at economical rates, get rid of the car. Take the loss now. Better than a bigger loss later. Yah it's a Toyota and it should go 1 million miles. That is complete BS. Toyotas have a built-in self-destruct mechanism that engages at about 175,000 miles. There are exceptions. LIke with humans there are centenarians. Most people are long dead before that.

What self destruction mechanism are you referring to?

 

[dev]

My heart goes out to you my friend.
Honestly this doesn't sound like outrageous prices for my area if your going to a repair shop or dealership. I work at a dealership. A lot of people are commenting that the prices are outrageous but they are doing the work themselves. I would have found 13k in this market with a 55k mile engine to be fair, assuming it was done correctly.... Anytime you buy a car, take it to a mechanic before closing the deal to make sure the car is mechanically sound. When your looking at 20 something year old cars (don't know your specific year), it should be expected to have major repairs and costs. If you can't (because of parents or skill level) do the work yourself it's going to be $$$$$$, and continue to be so. However, considering your already so much money in, I do recommend learning to do your own work. Buy some basic tools and keep them in your room. Work on the car in a parking lot. Luckily, your 18 and do live with your parents so you dont have to worry about rent on top of this. I definitely wouldn't move out with this vehicle. Maybe get a 2nd car for rialiablitiy. My suggestions:

1. Sell the car and get a newer reliable car 2020 or newer. Make payments. Not fun at 18,but it will build your credit and give you stability while you get economicaly setup. Think missing class, work, being stranded, having future rent due and car repairs. It's not an ideal situation for 18 starting life.

2. Buy a 2nd car that is reliable and keep this one and make the repairs as you can or learn to work on it yourself. Maybe find a friend who will let you use the garage or keep the tools in your room. I used to use parking lots.

You can absolutely work on your car if it's your desire. Mr2 are a car that is ripe for learning. They are a good entry level into auto mechanics. My Mr2 brought me into the automotive industry amd i knew nothing. I wish you the best!

I have a question for you that is more of a curiosity. How much would have been too much. He spent around $7k in repairs. At which point monetarily would he have overspent by your estimation.

 

[dev]

Wow I’ve owned my spyder over 8 years and it’s got 150k and all I’ve had to do to it in that time frame was replace the alternator brake pads/rotors, spray the maf with maf cleaner and fix the flex pipe on the aftermarket exhaust but now mine is turbocharged so there’s no flex pipe. I drive it more than my other cars too.

That is because you probably bought a good one and maintained it like I did. There are a lot of neglected examples that people buy out of desperation with a lot of issues that are coming to the surface giving this car an undeserved reputation.
So many cars that have exchanged hands with less deserving owners that have abuse them. I dread the day if my car is totaled and have to look for a replacement because it will be a depressing experience trying to find a good example at the right price.

 

[Guest]

Are you guys looking at his list of fixes? Some of them are choices/mods. Others are things you would do to a 20+ year old car because it's a 20+ year old car. And of course you have his shop throwing parts at the car for likely little to no reason other then I imagine the owner drives a nice ass McLaren. I maybe could understand "transmission went out" or "rod knock issues" but of the things he's pointed out he overpaid even if he lived in the nicest penthouse in NYC/SF. And the prices are all over the place. Some look like they just charged for parts and others look like the entire staff worked on the car including the receptionist. He's complaining about peeling clearcoat and scratches...yeah, you need an experienced master mechanic to diagnose things like that. I saw a car on fire once, but had to call the fire department...not to put it out, but to confirm it was on fire. I'm not a trained firefighter after all. But don't worry, he clearly stated he's not stupid.

 

[Noelellacy]

I have a question for you that is more of a curiosity. How much would have been too much. He spent around $7k in repairs. At which point monetarily would he have overspent by your estimation.

I have a question for you that is more of a curiosity. How much would have been too much. He spent around $7k in repairs. At which point monetarily would he have overspent by your estimation.

😀. Im not saying he did or didn't overspend. Just that thease are typical dealership prices in my area. I'm Austin. If he is not able work on his car, it's going to cost $$$. I'm at work now. I'll pull up the costs for kicks and giggles so we can compare prices between shops. This may be more helpful 🙂.

Before everyone jumps on me. No I don't think thease are fair prices. Just what it costs here at my work. Just facts.

The first set of prices are generic to my dealership not the car.
Battery: 209.95 starting
Battery cleaning 54.95
Headlight restoration 179.95
Mass air cleaning nit repair: 48.85

Putting my MR2 Vin into the system for fun to see pricing:

Fuel injecter
977.52 for parts plus 0.8 standard labor hour. 0.8 of an hour =120
So =1097.52

Parking Brake depends on cable, motor, lever, pedal, control or whole system...

Coolant leak: depends on location

Shocks and struts:
Parts:
Front right: 369.24
Rear: 454.82
Labor:
Front: 2.0 standard hours= 300
Rear: 1.7 = 255
Total price= 1379.06

Downpipe only no other part of exhaust
Parts: 128.98
Labor: 0.9 of an hour = 135
=263.98

Cat: part of front pipe
part: 1741.52
Labor: not listed

Ignition coil:
Parts: 128.48 each= 513.92
Labor: $75 per coil

Mass air replacement
part 156.84
Labor 0.6 of an hour =$80
=236.84

Door light: part 24.91
Labor: $45
= 69.91

🙂 hope this helps.

 

[dev]

😀. Im not saying he did or didn't overspend. Just that thease are typical dealership prices in my area. I'm Austin. If he is not able work on his car, it's going to cost $$$. I'm at work now. I'll pull up the costs for kicks and giggles so we can compare prices between shops. This may be more helpful 🙂.

Before everyone jumps on me. No I don't think thease are fair prices. Just what it costs here at my work. Just facts.

The first set of prices are generic to my dealership not the car.
Battery: 209.95 starting
Battery cleaning 54.95
Headlight restoration 179.95
Mass air cleaning nit repair: 48.85

Putting my MR2 Vin into the system for fun to see pricing:

Fuel injecter
977.52 for parts plus 0.8 standard labor hour. 0.8 of an hour =120
So =1097.52

Parking Brake depends on cable, motor, lever, pedal, control or whole system...

Coolant leak: depends on location

Shocks and struts:
Parts:
Front right: 369.24
Rear: 454.82
Labor:
Front: 2.0 standard hours= 300
Rear: 1.7 = 255
Total price= 1379.06

Downpipe only no other part of exhaust
Parts: 128.98
Labor: 0.9 of an hour = 135
=263.98

Cat: part of front pipe
part: 1741.52
Labor: not listed

Ignition coil:
Parts: 128.48 each= 513.92
Labor: $75 per coil

Mass air replacement
part 156.84
Labor 0.6 of an hour =$80
=236.84

Door light: part 24.91
Labor: $45
= 69.91

🙂 hope this helps.

Thank you. I also live in a high priced area for car repair and I agree that it's probably more typical these days.
It is compete and total rip off if you are not sourcing your own parts and leaning how to wrench.
I get that shops have to charge but It was not this bad as I remember it. I called around for my Lexus because for the first time in a long time I just wanted to drop it off and have it done.
What I got instead when I called around was unbelievable cost and a level of deception in the way they were talking to me that I haven't encountered before. I did the work myself and it was easier than the brake job on the Spyder. The savings was so great I decided to spend a premium for the best rotors and pads which they probably would not have so they can milk it for more profit margins.

Having said that I would have taken my car to the dealer to get a more accurate diagnosis to save money on the actual issue. There is no way that all of those things needed to be fixed.
If it wasn't for the increase in used car prices that repair bill would have totaled a used Spyder eight years ago like it would a BMW with a bad engine.

 

[FormInFunction]

[emoji3]. Im not saying he did or didn't overspend. Just that thease are typical dealership prices in my area. I'm Austin. If he is not able work on his car, it's going to cost $$$. I'm at work now. I'll pull up the costs for kicks and giggles so we can compare prices between shops. This may be more helpful [emoji846].

Before everyone jumps on me. No I don't think thease are fair prices. Just what it costs here at my work. Just facts.

The first set of prices are generic to my dealership not the car.
Battery: 209.95 starting
Battery cleaning 54.95
Headlight restoration 179.95
Mass air cleaning nit repair: 48.85

Putting my MR2 Vin into the system for fun to see pricing:

Fuel injecter
977.52 for parts plus 0.8 standard labor hour. 0.8 of an hour =120
So =1097.52

Parking Brake depends on cable, motor, lever, pedal, control or whole system...

Coolant leak: depends on location

Shocks and struts:
Parts:
Front right: 369.24
Rear: 454.82
Labor:
Front: 2.0 standard hours= 300
Rear: 1.7 = 255
Total price= 1379.06

Downpipe only no other part of exhaust
Parts: 128.98
Labor: 0.9 of an hour = 135
=263.98

Cat: part of front pipe
part: 1741.52
Labor: not listed

Ignition coil:
Parts: 128.48 each= 513.92
Labor: $75 per coil

Mass air replacement
part 156.84
Labor 0.6 of an hour =$80
=236.84

Door light: part 24.91
Labor: $45
= 69.91

[emoji846] hope this helps.

Your list further confirms what we've all been saying. You're putting in dealership prices & still coming in significantly lower. $434 to replace the MAF is a war crime. They probably charged him labor for the 90+ mins they spent laughing at him for agreeing to that price.

Also, there's no motor on these parking brake cables...& the lever is the 'controller' [emoji854]

 

[Noelellacy]

😀. Im not saying he did or didn't overspend. Just that thease are typical dealership prices in my area. I'm Austin. If he is not able work on his car, it's going to cost $$$. I'm at work now. I'll pull up the costs for kicks and giggles so we can compare prices between shops. This may be more helpful 🙂.

Before everyone jumps on me. No I don't think thease are fair prices. Just what it costs here at my work. Just facts.

The first set of prices are generic to my dealership not the car.
Battery: 209.95 starting
Battery cleaning 54.95
Headlight restoration 179.95
Mass air cleaning nit repair: 48.85

Putting my MR2 Vin into the system for fun to see pricing:

Fuel injecter
977.52 for parts plus 0.8 standard labor hour. 0.8 of an hour =120
So =1097.52

Parking Brake depends on cable, motor, lever, pedal, control or whole system...

Coolant leak: depends on location

Shocks and struts:
Parts:
Front right: 369.24
Rear: 454.82
Labor:
Front: 2.0 standard hours= 300
Rear: 1.7 = 255
Total price= 1379.06

Downpipe only no other part of exhaust
Parts: 128.98
Labor: 0.9 of an hour = 135
=263.98

Cat: part of front pipe
part: 1741.52
Labor: not listed

Ignition coil:
Parts: 128.48 each= 513.92
Labor: $75 per coil

Mass air replacement
part 156.84
Labor 0.6 of an hour =$80
=236.84

Door light: part 24.91
Labor: $45
= 69.91

🙂 hope this helps.

Your list further confirms what we've all been saying. You're putting in dealership prices & still coming in significantly lower. $434 to replace the MAF is a war crime. They probably charged him labor for the 90+ mins they spent laughing at him for agreeing to that price.

Also, there's no motor on these parking brake cables...& the lever is the 'controller' [emoji854]

Some things on the list are cheaper and some are more expensive. Like his struts were way less than prices here. MAF was more. Shopping around is important. No shop is going to charge the same. Example, I'm looking for a clockspring for a Honda. One dealership priced at 148 another 300 for the OEM part. It a lot of money to have a car worked on. Like others have said he probably bought a car that wasnt taken care of beforehand. So whats the solution going forward for him? He already has the car and stated he can't work on it himself. I only see 3 options. Learn, sell, or spend. The prices were just to be helpful.

I am switching between two systems for pricing and typing as it came down on the link choices. We have motor/Actuator on the list for vehicles with the electric parking. It doesnt apply to the MR2, your right. It still shows up for all models in the computer and I didnt filter it out, then typed it while trying to add up the numbers. Im defining lever as the physical piece that moves, control the part that moves it, cables obviously, and on electric parking motor/actuator which is by the caliper. Which your right we dont have. But the prices are different depending on which one you need. Wasn't sure what part to price because his list doesn't say which part was replaced.

 

[gbravi]

If they did any of the parking brake cables for $400, that would be more than fair considering how much is in the way.

 

[carlbecker]

Unless that was lifting the center console to adjust them. Which seems more in line with the rest of the pricing.

 

[carlbecker]

There is probably diagnostic time in these charges also.

 

[MerryFrankster]

What self destruction mechanism are you referring to?

It's called entropy. The natural tendency of all things to fall apart.

 

[carlbecker]

A campfire is an example of entropy. The solid wood burns and becomes ash, smoke and gases, all of which spread energy outwards more easily than the solid fuel. Ice melting, salt or sugar dissolving, making popcorn and boiling water for tea are processes with increasing entropy in your kitchen.

 

[Funkycheeze]

My 3-1/2 year old is also a good example of Entropy. The longer she stays in a location, the more disordered that location becomes.

 

[Noelellacy]

My 3-1/2 year old is also a good example of Entropy. The longer she stays in a location, the more disordered that location becomes.

I was gonna try to come up with a comedy response, but bro, I can't beat that one 🤣🤣🤣! I just entropyed into a fit of laughter.

 

[McRosacci]

Considering these generally push 200k before major problems start (even on some pre face-lift models), I'm guessing yours has lived a particularly hard life. From the repairs you described it probably had a ton of deferred maintenance and also I wouldn't be surprised if it lived a significant portion of its life in a state that has issues with rust and corrosion. All and all, your MR2 was woefully neglected prior to you taking ownership.

Agreed, it probably had an hard life and not enough maintenance or love - she’s getting it now! Also strongly suggest learning to do maintenance yourself, that will save a bundle and it’s very satisfying! High mileage cars with engines swapped are definitely scary! Sorry dude!

 

[Noelellacy]

.

 

[LV2PLA]

I'd suggest running a poll asking "Buy vs Sell". But after reading this entire thread I think the consensus is that you need to just cut your losses and pull a Ctrl-Alt-Del reset, kid. You'll eventually date someone like this too, so take this as a lesson on where your Bail-Out Number is on the Hot vs. Crazy matrix. Both cars and significant others will consume resources - financial, temporal and mental - so you need to decide if the return on investment is worth it. Nobody else can make this decision for you. In closing:

 

[armyho2211]

Bought my spyder for $12,900 at 55k miles. I’ve spent $7783 in maintenance costs in one year of owning the car. What am I doing wrong? Why is my car so unreliable?
This is what I’ve spent on the car:


-Initial Car Cost: $12,900

-New catalytic converter: $2,100
-Parking Brake: $400
-Antifreeze line leak: $300
-Ignition Coils: $227
-Fuel Injectors: $1,400
-Shocks and Struts: $834
-Indicator light wiring: $181
-Malian catless downpipe: $260
-Bee R rev limiter: $81
-Emissions: $300
-Mass Airflow Sensor: $434
-Exhaust fix: $336
-Exhaust fix 2: $133
-New Battery (12/22): $169
-Battery Terminals: $15
-Outlet Coolant Hose: $593
-Car door lights: $20

The previous owner blew the engine at 110k miles and replaced it with a factory 1zz engine with 55k miles. The precats were the reason it blew from my knowledge. The new engine had the precats removed.

The worst part is I’m not even done with repairs. I have an EVAP leak, peeling clear coat on my side mirrors, deep scratches on the front and rear bumpers, fluids need to be changed, and my headlights are fogged up.

I should also mention everything has been done at a autoshop. I have minimal mechanic ability and almost no tools.

i have a 2001 MR2 SPYDER.... i am not that much of a mechanic either... the idea is to a get COUPLE of quotes first, let the mechanics tell you what the problem is , this will double check to make sure both mechanics are in agreement of the problem... then check youtube....they have a lot of videos on repairs you might be able to do youself , IF it's a simple repair.. other repairs are way over my head and i would not attempt to do it myself...... FOR instance, your list has a MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR...at 400.00...... on my 2001 mr2 , i can buy a DENSO MAF SENSOR for 53.00 on AMAZON.....it take 2screws and disconnect the electrical connector of the MAF...., OR you can clean it yourself free .( will attach a video) as an example....most of the time i buy the part i need and pay a mechanic for labor only.... AMAZON sells pretty much everything you need... OR check ROCKAUTO .COM for after market stuff at great prices.....ANOTHER EXAMPLE.. my parking brake wouldnt hold, i bought the brake for around 60.00 , found a mechanic paid him 85.00..... i think you should claim your mechanic as a dependent on your tax returns... there is a lot of knowledge on this website, if you are not in hurry, get advise here before doing anything..... sorry for the long post, but this is important for information....... GOOD LUCK !!!

 

[armyho2211]

i have a 2001 MR2 SPYDER.... i am not that much of a mechanic either... the idea is to a get COUPLE of quotes first, let the mechanics tell you what the problem is , this will double check to make sure both mechanics are in agreement of the problem... then check youtube....they have a lot of videos on repairs you might be able to do youself , IF it's a simple repair.. other repairs are way over my head and i would not attempt to do it myself...... FOR instance, your list has a MASS AIRFLOW SENSOR...at 400.00...... on my 2001 mr2 , i can buy a DENSO MAF SENSOR for 53.00 on AMAZON.....it take 2screws and disconnect the electrical connector of the MAF...., OR you can clean it yourself free .( will attach a video) as an example....most of the time i buy the part i need and pay a mechanic for labor only.... AMAZON sells pretty much everything you need... OR check ROCKAUTO .COM for after market stuff at great prices.....ANOTHER EXAMPLE.. my parking brake wouldnt hold, i bought the brake for around 60.00 , found a mechanic paid him 85.00..... i think you should claim your mechanic as a dependent on your tax returns... there is a lot of knowledge on this website, if you are not in hurry, get advise here before doing anything..... sorry for the long post, but this is important for information....... GOOD LUCK !!!

Bought my spyder for $12,900 at 55k miles. I’ve spent $7783 in maintenance costs in one year of owning the car. What am I doing wrong? Why is my car so unreliable?
This is what I’ve spent on the car:


-Initial Car Cost: $12,900

-New catalytic converter: $2,100
-Parking Brake: $400
-Antifreeze line leak: $300
-Ignition Coils: $227
-Fuel Injectors: $1,400
-Shocks and Struts: $834
-Indicator light wiring: $181
-Malian catless downpipe: $260
-Bee R rev limiter: $81
-Emissions: $300
-Mass Airflow Sensor: $434
-Exhaust fix: $336
-Exhaust fix 2: $133
-New Battery (12/22): $169
-Battery Terminals: $15
-Outlet Coolant Hose: $593
-Car door lights: $20

The previous owner blew the engine at 110k miles and replaced it with a factory 1zz engine with 55k miles. The precats were the reason it blew from my knowledge. The new engine had the precats removed.

The worst part is I’m not even done with repairs. I have an EVAP leak, peeling clear coat on my side mirrors, deep scratches on the front and rear bumpers, fluids need to be changed, and my headlights are fogged up.

I should also mention everything has been done at a autoshop. I have minimal mechanic ability and almost no tools.

BY the way,

Bought my spyder for $12,900 at 55k miles. I’ve spent $7783 in maintenance costs in one year of owning the car. What am I doing wrong? Why is my car so unreliable?
This is what I’ve spent on the car:


-Initial Car Cost: $12,900

-New catalytic converter: $2,100
-Parking Brake: $400
-Antifreeze line leak: $300
-Ignition Coils: $227
-Fuel Injectors: $1,400
-Shocks and Struts: $834
-Indicator light wiring: $181
-Malian catless downpipe: $260
-Bee R rev limiter: $81
-Emissions: $300
-Mass Airflow Sensor: $434
-Exhaust fix: $336
-Exhaust fix 2: $133
-New Battery (12/22): $169
-Battery Terminals: $15
-Outlet Coolant Hose: $593
-Car door lights: $20

The previous owner blew the engine at 110k miles and replaced it with a factory 1zz engine with 55k miles. The precats were the reason it blew from my knowledge. The new engine had the precats removed.

The worst part is I’m not even done with repairs. I have an EVAP leak, peeling clear coat on my side mirrors, deep scratches on the front and rear bumpers, fluids need to be changed, and my headlights are fogged up.

I should also mention everything has been done at a autoshop. I have minimal mechanic ability and almost no tools.

BUTTERMOO..... JUST IN CASE... if your SPYDER is not a daily driver for work.... you can save some money by joining an insurance company named GRUNDY'S CLASSIC CAR INSURANCE...... i was paying 1200.00 a year to Allstate, made the change to GRUNDY'S for 220.00 a "year", i insured mine for $15,000.00..... just trying to help !!!