[randman2011]

I'm not intending to go into much detail because I haven't done anything that hasn't been described on here already, but I felt like sharing because I'm happy with how it turned out. At least part of it. More on that later. Finished product first:

OEM Toyota housings (passenger side is new, driver side is not). I replaced the factory projectors with Morimoto MicroD2S bixenons. 4500k Morimoto D2H bulbs, ballasts, etc. Inspired by Midship Garage's headlights, I threw in an 18" Profile Prism Sequential Switchback strip.

And let me start by saying, this MR-2 has been abused. Both original headlights had broken tabs. The passenger one had an opaque lens. The stud that attaches to the fender was missing and the previous owner just drilled a hole through the headlight and ran a bolt and nut through it. The plastic clip under the housing was missing entirely. And. These bulbs.

Never before have I had to replace every single forward-facing bulb. And none of them were even burnt out, although the LEDs were pretty much there.

I used the Custom Brackets & Designs Mini H1 brackets for the install, and I have nothing but bad things to say about them. They arrived surface-rusty which wasn't a big deal, but I had to cut off a significant portion of one of the tabs just to get the bracket to fit inside the housing. The holes for the plastic adjuster things are smaller than the stock unit so they were hard to work with, and zero hardware was included at all. The intended solution is just to stack a bunch of washers on a screw until everything comes into alignment, which is lazy and stupid. 12 bolts and nuts are required, as well as 6 screws across three different sizes, plus whatever spacer the user decides to use. I used nylon spacers that I cut to length which worked well but ABSOLUTELY should have been included. So with the modified bracket painted and all of the extra hardware installed, I took the car out to align the headlights and saw this.

That's right. These brackets are designed so poorly that the rotation is off by a SIGNIFICANT amount. And for anyone unfamiliar with these headlights, there is no rotation adjustment. There's only horizontal and vertical position, so there's nothing I can do without disassembling everything and cutting/welding the bracket to move several of the mounting tabs. Also note the lower cutoff in the foreground. This is because the bracket places the projector about 1/4" farther back into the housing than the stock unit, leaving an unsightly gap and causing the housing to block the foreground and width of these projectors. This misalignment could be fixed with some spacers on the socket that accepts the housing's ball joint, but any spacers there are going to allow the projector to bounce when going over bumps.

So I don't know what I'm going to do. Obviously I need to reach out to Custom Brackets & Designs, but regardless of their response I'm not terribly motivated to remove the bumper, toss the headlights into the oven, and start this whole project over again.

 

[arc_III]

The joys and headaches of modding headlights. I'm still deciding if I want to order some new pre-facelift headlights and retrofit projectors (think GT300 MR-S) or mod my current facelift headlights. I'm leaning towards just buying brand new since... well new headlights... but I was figuring I'd run into some of the same issues that you've pointed out here. Nonetheless, nice job and I'm actually loving the OEM+ look with that sequential indicator!

 

[randman2011]

@arc_III OEM+ is definitely my mantra for aesthetic things. Hence why I'm hunting down a TRD-style wing. But. I don't know what your motivations are for going with a pre-facelift housing for a retrofit, but I decided long ago that I wouldn't do a bixenon-only setup unless I didn't have a choice. So many scenarios where the separate high beam is important. Even with the difficulty of these brackets being crap, I'm still glad that I didn't just stick the projector in place of the only bulb, like I was forced to do in my van or my old Miata/Jimny.

 

[arc_III]

@arc_III OEM+ is definitely my mantra for aesthetic things. Hence why I'm hunting down a TRD-style wing. But. I don't know what your motivations are for going with a pre-facelift housing for a retrofit, but I decided long ago that I wouldn't do a bixenon-only setup unless I didn't have a choice. So many scenarios where the separate high beam is important. Even with the difficulty of these brackets being crap, I'm still glad that I didn't just stick the projector in place of the only bulb, like I was forced to do in my van or my old Miata/Jimny.

OEM+ is always the style I like for my vehicles especially lighting. Simple mods always make the biggest difference from my experience. I rarely use my highbeams so a single prijector thats a bi-xenon is good enough for me.

Only reason I'd go for the pre-facelift is I found some brand new ones for cheap and I can't source a replacement plastic headlight lens for my current face-lift set. Otherwise I'd stick with them and install new lenses after pulling the headlight apart.

 

[FormInFunction]

I don't know what you spent on this but tbh if only done for improving visibility & not being blingy a new/gently used set of FL headlights with HID bulbs/ballasts would have given a perfect result. I don't recall if the OEM setup allows the high/low beams to stay on together...mine do & its perfect for desolate roads at night.

 

[helloyello]

Very nifty!

 

[henpenben]

I'm curious, are the brackets I posted a photo of in this thread the same brackets you used?

Retrofit brackets: Morimoto Mini H1 bixenon HID...

For those who are not familiar, a projector retrofit consists of installing a projector made for HID bulbs into a headlight that did not come with it, or came with poor quality ones. HIDs in halogen reflector housings are a huge no no, and HIDs in halogen projector housings are generally less...

www.spyderchat.com

 

[randman2011]

I don't know what you spent on this but tbh if only done for improving visibility & not being blingy a new/gently used set of FL headlights with HID bulbs/ballasts would have given a perfect result. I don't recall if the OEM setup allows the high/low beams to stay on together...mine do & its perfect for desolate roads at night.

If I wanted to spend the least amount of money providing glare, blinding oncoming drivers, and generally not improving my ability to see forward, I'd just drive with my high beams on. No need to purchase anything extra.

[EDIT] To actually be helpful, I went to look up how much I spent on the MR-2 and I actually don't know. These parts have been sitting on my shelf since July. I got them on sale, it was a combined order with stuff for the Autozam, it was a split order between two different vendors, and Lightwerkz never issued me an invoice. The current full price for the light stuff is $470 and the LED strips are $120, but I remember the order total being around $600 for both cars so I should be about $300 into the MR-2.[/EDIT]

In all seriousness, one thing that we used to do with 9006 headlights was trim one of the alignment tabs on a 9005 bulb and use that for a low beam. It was quite a bit brighter, uses a similar enough connector that it can be plug-and-play, and most importantly, still keeps a beam pattern so the light goes where it's supposed to. I'm not aware of any such compatible high beam bulbs for H7 but that would have been my first thing to check if I was just trying to improve my sight on a budget. In reality, the stock halogen projector is pretty good and there isn't much reason to go through a retrofit like I did. I just really like bixenons.

 

[randman2011]

I'm curious, are the brackets I posted a photo of in this thread the same brackets you used?

Retrofit brackets: Morimoto Mini H1 bixenon HID...

For those who are not familiar, a projector retrofit consists of installing a projector made for HID bulbs into a headlight that did not come with it, or came with poor quality ones. HIDs in halogen reflector housings are a huge no no, and HIDs in halogen projector housings are generally less...

www.spyderchat.com

Yup. The very same ones. Did you do a retrofit with those brackets or were you merely recommending them to someone else?

 

[DeuceFatty]

In reality, the stock halogen projector is pretty good and there isn't much reason to go through a retrofit like I did. I just really like bixenons.

I guess I'm THAT far from having "virgin" eyes when it comes to lighting because when it comes to most stock headlights (especially halogen...) they're so useless I might as well be driving with my lights off... Lol...

 

[FormInFunction]

If I wanted to spend the least amount of money providing glare, blinding oncoming drivers, and generally not improving my ability to see forward, I'd just drive with my high beams on. No need to purchase anything extra.

[EDIT] To actually be helpful, I went to look up how much I spent on the MR-2 and I actually don't know. These parts have been sitting on my shelf since July. I got them on sale, it was a combined order with stuff for the Autozam, it was a split order between two different vendors, and Lightwerkz never issued me an invoice. The current full price for the light stuff is $470 and the LED strips are $120, but I remember the order total being around $600 for both cars so I should be about $300 into the MR-2.[/EDIT]

In all seriousness, one thing that we used to do with 9006 headlights was trim one of the alignment tabs on a 9005 bulb and use that for a low beam. It was quite a bit brighter, uses a similar enough connector that it can be plug-and-play, and most importantly, still keeps a beam pattern so the light goes where it's supposed to. I'm not aware of any such compatible high beam bulbs for H7 but that would have been my first thing to check if I was just trying to improve my sight on a budget. In reality, the stock halogen projector is pretty good and there isn't much reason to go through a retrofit like I did. I just really like bixenons.

You misinterpreted my comment. HIDs in the FL low beams are the pinnacle of lighting....doesn't get any better than that IMO. So if doing this for functional purposes that is the way to go all day every day. The bonus is that being able to use the high/low beams together turns night to day & provides a clear, wide, & elongated line of sight on even the most desolate of roads. No one is saying to use your high beams for city driving!

All it takes is an HID kit...mine were ~$100 but I'm sure everything is more expensive nowadays. The bulb sits in the correct position (an issue with many LED bulbs similar to what your bracket is causing) & its basically plug & play. I can't remember which halogen bulbs I use in the high beams...they're bright but draw less energy than the stock bulb...requires a dremel on the plastic tabs a touch to fit them.

The LED straps are a cool look, paired with Euro fender side markers would be an absolute chef's kiss.

 

[DeuceFatty]

No one is saying to use your high beams for city driving!

Why not, everyone else does (or it's drive with nothing on period at night...). If there was ever a gigantic asshole for highbeams it would be me if I ran around with my highbeams on. LOL

 

[Superbideas]

May I ask how you tap for power? Are you using 35w bulbs? I have a similar system I purchased from Lightwerks.

 

[wllbst]

This is the first time Ive seen this retrofit mod, and it looks good.

 

[henpenben]

Yup. The very same ones. Did you do a retrofit with those brackets or were you merely recommending them to someone else?

I started the retrofit but haven't gotten around to finishing it. Maybe I won't, if the brackets are so bad. I only got so far as taking apart one headlight and doing something similar with cut-down nylon washers. I was a bit frustrated with that as well, given the lack of instructions or included hardware.

Maybe I'll model up some brackets of my own and 3D print them out of polycarbonate. Do you have any suggestions for improvement over the metal ones?

 

[randman2011]

May I ask how you tap for power? Are you using 35w bulbs? I have a similar system I purchased from Lightwerks.

Sorry for the slow response. I completely missed your message! I followed the suggestion outlined here: Stebel Horn Installation Because I'm kind of a perfectionist when it comes to wiring I went a little overboard, but that's the basic gist. I pulled the frunk fuse box, removed the bottom cover, unclipped the white 12V supply, and popped the female terminal out of the plastic connector housing. I opened the crimp on the connector a little, stuck the new wire in it, and then re-crimped. Then I ran the new wire along the old one out of the fuse box and to the inline fuse, through a spare 1 pin automotive connector that I had lying around, and then to the HID relay module. That way it's cleanly installed, appropriately fused, and easily removed. I think this kit has 50W ballasts?

I started the retrofit but haven't gotten around to finishing it. Maybe I won't, if the brackets are so bad. I only got so far as taking apart one headlight and doing something similar with cut-down nylon washers. I was a bit frustrated with that as well, given the lack of instructions or included hardware.

Maybe I'll model up some brackets of my own and 3D print them out of polycarbonate. Do you have any suggestions for improvement over the metal ones?

The design of the brackets is inconvenient for the end user because making it as flat as possible makes manufacturing much easier. If you're 3D printing something, I would scrap the bracket design and just recreate the OE projector assembly with mounting bosses for the H1 in place of the integrated bulb holder. But, since it's not flat, I don't know how to orient it and deal with the support structure and things. All of my complaints would disappear if you base your design off of the OE part instead of the metal bracket. I'm happy to discuss it further if you want.


I sent an email to Custom Brackets & Designs on February 24th and have not received a response. I guess I will ping them again.

 

[henpenben]

...recreate the OE projector assembly with mounting bosses for the H1 in place of the integrated bulb holder...

this is a good idea although I am not sure how to get a good 3D scan of the OE model to start with. maybe I can find someone local

 

[Superbideas]

You’re the best! Actually just in time as I just began picking up the project . I appreciate you, randman2011!!

Sorry for the slow response. I completely missed your message! I followed the suggestion outlined here: Stebel Horn Installation Because I'm kind of a perfectionist when it comes to wiring I went a little overboard, but that's the basic gist. I pulled the frunk fuse box, removed the bottom cover, unclipped the white 12V supply, and popped the female terminal out of the plastic connector housing. I opened the crimp on the connector a little, stuck the new wire in it, and then re-crimped. Then I ran the new wire along the old one out of the fuse box and to the inline fuse, through a spare 1 pin automotive connector that I had lying around, and then to the HID relay module. That way it's cleanly installed, appropriately fused, and easily removed. I think this kit has 50W ballasts?


The design of the brackets is inconvenient for the end user because making it as flat as possible makes manufacturing much easier. If you're 3D printing something, I would scrap the bracket design and just recreate the OE projector assembly with mounting bosses for the H1 in place of the integrated bulb holder. But, since it's not flat, I don't know how to orient it and deal with the support structure and things. All of my complaints would disappear if you base your design off of the OE part instead of the metal bracket. I'm happy to discuss it further if you want.


I sent an email to Custom Brackets & Designs on February 24th and have not received a response. I guess I will ping them again.

 

[randman2011]

this is a good idea although I am not sure how to get a good 3D scan of the OE model to start with. maybe I can find someone local

And I already threw my OE ones away so I'm really not any help there. Careful measurements of the bolt hole locations should be all that you need, but I have a total of zero CAD experience. That's why I have mechanical engineer friends.