[rcntype]

Something weird has been happening to my electricals. Sometimes when I brake my headlights will flicker and either one or both will cut off (i have hid's), also sometimes my radio will cut off and cig charger will also lose power (i know cause I have an inverter plugged in and I hear it switch off and on). Power always comes right back on, with the headlights i have to turn them off and on again. It seems like an activation of an electrical load cuts off the 12v power. I say this and not just the brake pedals because when I use the turn signals it does the same thing with the headlights.

My friend mentioned alternator is going. I looked under the dash to see if any wires were being snagged by the pedals, nothing is. My hid wiring is done following Sammy's diy thread and has been working perfectly since installed.

Any ideas?

 

[OldMan]

Post Deleted

 

[dev]

I think your friend is right about the alternator. You can get some weird anomalies when the alternator's voltage regulator cannot steady voltage.

Get the alternator load tested at any auto parts store.

 

[dogbreath]

Brakes are overrated. You should remove them anyway to save weight.

Seriously, I'd bet that you are having a voltage or current problem. The first thing to look at is to make sure that the battery connections are clean and tight. Then I'd try using a voltmeter and seeing what it does when you have this problem. If that doesn't turn up anything, then you may need an oscilloscope with a storage feature. That way you would be able to see a voltage glitch.

 

[rcntype]

Just did a battery load test in car, came out all good but then I didn't have this problem when we did the test either. I think I will drive with my laptop and either copilot or Fcedit and monitor the voltage WHEN this anomaly happens. I'm pretty sure its the alternator. Oh yea my engine died once or twice coming to a stop when this was happening as well. Will report back.

So I hear changing the alternator is a pain? For people that have done whats the main reason it is?

 

[dev]

Just did a battery load test in car, came out all good but then I didn't have this problem when we did the test either. I think I will drive with my laptop and either copilot or Fcedit and monitor the voltage WHEN this anomaly happens. I'm pretty sure its the alternator. Oh yea my engine died once or twice coming to a stop when this was happening as well. Will report back.

So I hear changing the alternator is a pain? For people that have done whats the main reason it is?

Sometimes you can smell the rectifier burning around the alternator.

To remove the Alternator is doable but you need to remove the passenger side mount which is the easy part. There are two bolts that hold in the alternator and even it's removal is not a big deal.

The problem is having to maneuver the alternator by turning it in the right direction to have it clear in three stages. So basically if you like intelligence puzzles then this should be fun.

 

[nocoolname]

Removing the alternator is a job that proves you can get a round peg through a square hole. Like Dev said, you have to remove the passenger side engine mount, then it's a couple of bolts. Don't forget the plug and the small cable that's held on by either a 8 or 10mm nut. The rest is like a jenga game in a way of wiggling it out of it's hole.

 

[T-bone]

000000000

 

[dev]

when you take off the engine mount do you need to support then engine from the pan with a block of wood and jack?

You don't however I recommend it with at least a floor jack. Reason being that you risk putting stress on the exhaust flex sections. Also you will need to use the jack to position the engine mount on re-assembly since it will start to sag a bit the longer you wait. If you are quick enough the engine shouldn't shift too much.

The best way to reassemble the mount is to put in all the bolts loosely so you have enough play so all the bolts line up and then tighten everything down.

 

[T-bone]

000000000

 

[nocoolname]

When I did mine, I just put a 2x4 on the jack and jacked up on the oil pan slowly. I had the 2x4 lined up longitudinally with the drain plug and made sure it was longer than the portion of the oilpan it was touching to better distribute the weight.

Another thing to getting it lined back up is if you have someone to slowly jack it while you initially line up the holes. A floor jack that releases slow is a plus as well.

 

[dev]

Just as NCN suggested a piece of wood will suffice so you can distribute the weight so that you don't dent the oil pan. What ever you do don't go too far otherwise you will be lifting the car from off the jack stands.
All you should be doing is offering support and some adjustment to prop up the engine just a bit for aligning the mount.

 

[Levi]

I've been having an identical problem, I have 55W DDM hids installed which were plug and play on my 03. Whenever I brake, hit the window switch, or turn signal my gauge cluster and all lights dim for half a second. Just tonight it started making my radio cut out for half a second as well. I'm using a deka etx9 if it matters.

I'll get my alt tested 2 weekends from now when I'm free.

 

[rcntype]

I've been having an identical problem, I have 55W DDM hids installed which were plug and play on my 03. Whenever I brake, hit the window switch, or turn signal my gauge cluster and all lights dim for half a second. Just tonight it started making my radio cut out for half a second as well. I'm using a deka etx9 if it matters.

I'll get my alt tested 2 weekends from now when I'm free.

I think i have the same battery :lol:

This doesn't sound good, the alternator peg game since my supercharger is probably in the way DOH! And I do not want to have to move that thing again, I just did it a few weeks ago ugh.

It happened again on the way home so i got my laptop and it stopped WTF!!!

 

[NHinNC]

It sounds like you might have a connection problem. Follow the neg battery cable to the tranny and clean that connection up. You might also have a bad ground at the brakelight harness. I don't know where that one is. You might also have a short in the brake light circuit. Keep an eye on your voltmeter in the dash.
You should also check the bigger cable on the back of the alternator to insure it is a good connection.
With the car running, check the voltage at the battery with a voltmeter. The alternator should get the battery to about 14.5V. Also, note where the meter is on the dash. Shut the car off, and turn it on without the car running. You should have about 12.6+ V for a good battery. Note where that is on the dash meter. Now you know the real range that the dash meter should have.
In the morning, or after a few hours with the car sitting, check the battery voltage. A good battery wil have about 12.6V. If you Google "battery state of charge", you will find charts that tell how good the battery is.

 

[rcntype]

It sounds like you might have a connection problem. Follow the neg battery cable to the tranny and clean that connection up. You might also have a bad ground at the brakelight harness. I don't know where that one is. You might also have a short in the brake light circuit. Keep an eye on your voltmeter in the dash.
You should also check the bigger cable on the back of the alternator to insure it is a good connection.
With the car running, check the voltage at the battery with a voltmeter. The alternator should get the battery to about 14.5V. Also, note where the meter is on the dash. Shut the car off, and turn it on without the car running. You should have about 12.6+ V for a good battery. Note where that is on the dash meter. Now you know the real range that the dash meter should have.
In the morning, or after a few hours with the car sitting, check the battery voltage. A good battery wil have about 12.6V. If you Google "battery state of charge", you will find charts that tell how good the battery is.

Just did a battery load test in car, came out all good but then I didn't have this problem when we did the test either.

We have a voltmeter in our dash? My battery load test was done with a professional tester that even takes a temp of the battery being tested, so its pretty much what you described. I will check the multiple grounds and connections.

 

[NHinNC]

We have a voltmeter in our dash?

Oops...confusing cars... my Buick has a voltmeter in the dash ( we all know how I could confuse a Buick with a Spyder....:icon_redface

 

[rcntype]

Just remembered about this thread. I have terrible memory.

Changed alternator and all is back to normal.

It was a pita especially trying to remove the alt from the lower bracket/hinge and then reinstalling and aligning the same area. Lost some precious expensive Rotrex fluid because I had my unbolted reservoir upside down for a bit. Hands arms got all cut up from reservoir (its sharp as fk). If I didn't have the rotrex reservoir its lines and my oil cooler and its lines in that area it would have been easy peasy.