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Hello! Newbie here

284 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  RI3D
Hello everyone

I recently got myself a Spyder since I've always really liked the look and concept of it.

It's a Silver Spyder from 2000 with a full service history and 150'000 km/93'000 miles.

I've been really happy with it so far, it's very fun to drive and a very different experience than my other car (a Veloster)

It does seem to have some issues though which is why I found this website... It has been very helpful, and I already fixed some of the issues myself! (Or maybe I made it worse without realising...)

I don't have any experience with working on cars, my mechanical experience is mostly from working in CAD on a PC... But I do enjoy learning new things and getting my hands dirty, and since this is my second car I decided I'd try to do as much as I can myself.
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Welcome aboard. There's a wealth of knowledge here, interspersed with the usual internet snarkyness at times, but overall a great place to hang out and learn about these cars.

Please, post some pics and tell us what you've done so far.
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Yes, I really think having a big community like this is very helpful. There are a lot of resources in many threads on here already.

When I first got it I really had an issue with responsiveness and generally it didn't feel like it had much power (I don't know how to describe it)

So I cleaned the MAF which was probably long overdue, it was covered in a thick gray layer of something...
At the same time I took the opportunity to change the air filter, the old ones gasket was cracking and falling apart.

After this it already ran much, much better.

Then I wanted to check the sparkplugs, they looked fine. I changed them anyway because they're so cheap, I put the same type in as I took out (Nickel I think?), though now I'm feeling like I should have just gotten the iridium ones. I also checked if there's any leakage or whatever on anything, but I didn't see anything.

Now recently I changed out all the o2 sensors because I wanted to have a look at the precats. The ones on the exhaust manifold came out very easily but the third one was quite the struggle. The two sensors in the manifold had a weird thick white layer of something on them...
The precats look worrying... There's no big damage to them, but In one spot they're not like a flat grid but more like a pointy grid where the cells join eachother, o I'm thinking I should probably get a different exhaust manifold. I've been considering Malian and Zero Exhausts.

The main issues that are bothering me right now is that when the engine is warmed up and I come to a red light, sometimes the engine will feel like it's dying when I'm trying to accelerate from a standstill after idling for a bit, no mater how much I press the accelerator pedal down, I don't get any more RPMS until about two or three seconds later. It's very embarrassing when it happens...

The other issue is the Remus exhaust that was already installed when I got it. It's loud. I can't drive with the top down if I don't wear earplugs because it's deafening in some rpm ranges, measured with my phone it was consistently about 75-80dB at the driver's seat which is damaging for the hearing over time...

Also the roof lining on the hardtop is hanging down but presumably that's an easy fix with the right adhesive

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Welcome aboard!
IMHO, gut the TWC's(that's Three Way Catalytic converter) in the header...wear a true N95 respirator(head loops, NOT EAR loops) while the header is in a trash bag(catching the broken matrix particles, keeping them out of your immediate atmosphere).
For your exhaust, look into Schoenfeld Headers muffler inserts or Car Chemistry exhaust inserts. Much less expensive than a full exhaust, and can be modified to get the sound to your liking.
It probably wouldn't hurt to find someone local to help you with the mechanical work.
Good luck and enjoy!
For the moment I think I'll try a quality drop-in replacement for the header, I'm not sure how I feel about the gutting thing yet... I might do it to a used header with bad precats that I could buy separately because ideally I'd like to keep the current one just in case I absolutely need the precats because of local laws or something. I haven't looked too deeply into the approval process for such a modification yet, I'm assuming it involves emissions testing... But yes, they do need to come out as soon as possible.

Thank you for the tip about the exhaust inserts! I didn't know there was such an easy fix, I'll definitely have to try those, I feel a bit obnoxious with my current exhaust note...

And yes, I have a few mechanic friends that will be happy to help with something if it gets too difficult for me, especially since I don't have a proper space to work on the car.

The thing that is weird to me at the moment is just the thing I mentioned about how it seems to almost die when I try to accelerate after idling for a bit at a stoplight or similar. I get no current engine codes or anything, only code I saw once was a P0175, but it was listed as a historical code and It never actually came back.
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The thing that is weird to me at the moment is just the thing I mentioned about how it seems to almost die when I try to accelerate after idling for a bit at a stoplight or similar. I get no current engine codes or anything, only code I saw once was a P0175, but it was listed as a historical code and It never actually came back.
I also have had this experience. Some attribute it to a dirty IAC valve or throttle body from what I remember and cleaning MAF sensor. I have saved some threads here somewhere that may be able to help more. I had this happen 2x in unsafe situations. What worked for me instead of waiting a few seconds was push the clutch in, rev to 3 or 3,500 RPMS, then dump the clutch or ease out the clutch. I have only had this issue on cold startups when I immediately go somewhere and don't let the car sit for a minute.
I also have had this experience. Some attribute it to a dirty IAC valve or throttle body from what I remember and cleaning MAF sensor. I have saved some threads here somewhere that may be able to help more. I had this happen 2x in unsafe situations. What worked for me instead of waiting a few seconds was push the clutch in, rev to 3 or 3,500 RPMS, then dump the clutch or ease out the clutch. I have only had this issue on cold startups when I immediately go somewhere and don't let the car sit for a minute.
That's weird, for me it only happens when the engine is fully warmed up... It drives just fine when cold. But yes it can definitely lead to dangerous situations when you want to go but the car doesn't.

The throttle body was actually something I was planning on tackling next though I don't yet know if I should fully take it out or leave it installed on the intake.
the MAF was extremely dirty so presumably the throttle body has an even worse thick crusty layer on it too. I'll also maybe replace the MAF with another new Denso one. Apparently it can get damaged from being too dirty for too long... And i suppose it won't hurt to have a spare just in case.

Thanks for the tip, I'll try revving more next time and see how that goes... That would definitely be better than struggling to even just start moving off the line.
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