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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I just thought I'd share this here as I just purchased a 2000 spyder and plan on tracking it this summer. The story goes like this...
For the last 17 years I have owned a 1997 AWD DSM that I built and raced and it took the punishing with no problems. In the Fall of 2018 coming home from a meet I did a pull and cleaned the teeth off of 4th gear. This was the first time in 17 years the car was torn down as it was when I built it and needless to say I found several issues that I want to take my time and redo, including a very stale wiring harness that has seen far too much service. Full transmission rebuild, build a harness, power steering rack rebuild, tube rad support, etc... It's going to be down for years but I have to scratch the itch to race. I had some money from a legacy gt wagon build I did and then unfortunately it got hit and I had to part it out. I was specifically looking for a SW20 MR2 as it's always been a bucket list car for me as my brother in law owned and let me borrow his when I was in High School. A few weeks ago my friend Joe text me about a 2000 spyder that popped up on facebook market place. Motor knocking repo sitting on a dealer lot for the last 3 years while they went through the process of getting a title and kept putting off fixing it.. I called immediately and found out that they only wanted $950 for the car but had zero info other then it didn't have any rust. So I bought it sight unseen and to my joy the car really was rust free and really not that bad for sunny day track toy and only had 90k on the chassis considering I was expecting the worst. Yesterday I tracked down a local 2zz out of a 2000 Celica gts with ECU for $725.. And here we are.. I'm going to try and get this thing track ready for sub $2,500... Can we do it? Let's find out.. I'll update this thread when I get a chance to pick up this motor and start the tear down. Subbing in for number 121... Yellow MR-S
74566
74567
 

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good choice. you'll wanna get at least an upgraded oil pan (moroso pan) for your 2zz to prevent oil starvation on sustained hard right cornering. upgraded oil pump gears wouldn't hurt either in case of accidental overrev, and neither would an air-oil separator or catch can to recirculate crankcase-vented oil back into the pan. lots of online advertised "low mile" 2zz's are actually high mileage, and it's hard to pick out the difference if buying sight unseen. a refresh of common wear parts would be a good idea (gaskets, seals, timing chain and tensioner).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
good choice. you'll wanna get at least an upgraded oil pan (moroso pan) for your 2zz to prevent oil starvation on sustained hard right cornering. upgraded oil pump gears wouldn't hurt either in case of accidental overrev, and neither would an air-oil separator or catch can to recirculate crankcase-vented oil back into the pan. lots of online advertised "low mile" 2zz's are actually high mileage, and it's hard to pick out the difference if buying sight unseen. a refresh of common wear parts would be a good idea (gaskets, seals, timing chain and tensioner).
I don't disagree with either of those as the DSM has both as well. A catch can will go in for sure.. but this one is on the cheap until the DSM roars back to life so is there any reason not to add capacity and a baffle to the OEM pan? Something to look at as again were on a budget for this one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You'll want some kind of oil cooler too. And most tracks will require good rollover protection.
What kind of oil temps do this little fellas run? Yeah I'll have to check the SCCA rules and my local on convertibles as I've never had one or even a friend that raced one.
 

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2zz without an oil cooler on track is a time bomb. SCCA requires a rollbar, race seat, harness, and arm restraints for convertibles.

If you plan to run race tires then the engine engine will also need a moroso pan. DO NOT use a hacked up 1zz oil pan to save money.
 

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The 2ZZ is actually pretty good for baffling in the valve cover - I have raced mine quite a bit without a need for any kind of catch can, and the intake is still nice and clean. Oil can easily get over 250F from hard driving without a cooler. You need one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah 250 that is up there. I have a oil cooler with thermostat on the DSM that springs open at 190 and stays there.. Only issue I ever had was the oil taking to long to get up to temp so I added the thermostat. I'll add that to the list of things to do. Thanks. I'm only planning on running a few sessions through the summer and more then likely going with the Direzza DZ102 for a nice all around tire. SCCA rules really require a harness for convertibles?? I was under the impression that it was a specific style roll bar but that was it. I was looking at the Hard dog for my purpose.
 

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Depends on if you are racing wheel to wheel or just time attack. I would suggest some research into the requirements for whatever series you intend to compete in.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I only race in a turned down version of time attack at the big track here where they take out the front straight and you just do 3/4 of a lap. They don't even have inspection you just show up and run. It's cheap for the sport and still a lot of fun at the same time even with the big track put on training wheels. Car is only flat out for under 2 min. And I will do a few auto-x sessions per year. Some with the Steel Cities SCCA and some with our local track call "laid back auto-x" no classes and no trophies just a course and your own personal time. So the only tech is for the SCCA auto-x that I need to pass. With that said I want a bar that would be structurally sound if something were to happen. I guess you could say my interest is to drive a car to its limits legally and really don't care about competing. Possibly I should use the term "racing" more carefully.
Thanks,
-Dave
 

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You won't need a bar for autox. I would recommend it for any roadcourse racing, even time attack due to the higher speeds involved.
 

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To build a proper welded in rollbar better than the hard dog requires losing the convertible top. A hard top would blow up your budget.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, no way I'll make my crazy budget. Just to many things I can't leave alone since the motor is on a stand with everything easy to get to. I'm going to replace all the seals, water pump, etc and I did end up getting a moroso pan. New flywheel and clutch because while it's out it's stupid not to... In total without roll bar doing a bunch of little maintenance stuff and some good autox tires. I'm into it a grand total including the car and 2zz swap $3,699. I am making my own exhaust and motor mount to save and why not as I have all the tools to do it. Can't wait to see how this little feller plays!
 
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