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Discussion Starter #1
I was out working on the spyder today and thought I would try to post this "how to" for a compression check.


Tools needed. 10and 14mm socket,plug socket with extension,small blade screw driver,and compression tester.The Dielectric grease is not needed but I like to use it.

Begin by removing the brace and the coil pack plastic cover. You could work around the brace but why hassle with it? It takes just seconds to remove with your 14mm.


Release the 4 coil pack connectors by pressing down on this tab with your finger while pulling on the sides to remove.

My tabs were brittle due to the 90K miles of heat so an alternate method in the next pic is to pry up with a small screwdriver at the other end.Do not use a lot of force the tab only has to come up a little to be able to pull the plug off with your fingers. Then unbolt the 4 coil packs using your 10mm socket.


Now unbolt the 10mm nut and bolt holding the coil pack harness to the head and lift it out of the way. You may be able to skip this part but I find it much easier to just get it out of the way.



Lift out the coil packs,you may need to gently wiggle from side to side to loosen them. Do not pry on them! After the coil packs are out remove the 4 fuel injector connectors located on the back of the head by the intake manifold. The next couple of pics show how I disconnected the fuel injectors. Now there is no spark and no fuel, you can now safely do the check.

I use the small blade screwdriver to push the clip release then pull up.


Remove the plugs. That is #2 cylinder. 1,2,3,4 right to left.


Time to check the plugs. My #2,3,and 4 plugs looked like this. Nice and clean with just a touch of tan.

# 1 looked a little darker we will find out why in a bit.


Time to screw in the tester. The smaller threaded portion will be used in this case, put some oil on the threads then lightly screw in the tester until the o-ring seats.


Time to test! This is when anyone with precats still on a 00-02 Mr2 needs to say a little prayer.


I just lay the tester on top of the motor get in the car and hit the starter while holding the throttle wide open, let the motor spin for at least 3 or 4 compression thumps. Get out and go look at the tester and hopefully you will see this next picture. Record then press the button on the side of the tester to release the pressure. Lather,rinse, and repeat on the others.

#1 195,#2 210,#3 205,#4 210. Not too bad considering my motor is a mix of used corolla and mr2 engine parts used for the rebuild of a spun #4 rod bearing. Looks like # 1 is burning just a little bit richer (cooler) due to the lower compression. This motor has held this since the rebuild 10,000 miles ago so it looks like things are holding together OK. Anything above 180 psi and within 15 psi of each other would be good if you were looking to buy a 1zz mr2. A 2zz motor would run 15-20 psi higher.


Put the plugs back in. When I do this I rub some grease on the plugs where the boot caps sit so the next time I pull the coil packs they just pop out easily.


Now just do the reverse and put everything back together. Double check all the connectors are on tight then fire it up. If you happen to get a check engine light after this just pull the battery cable off for a minute to reset the computer then hook the cable back up. I have done this several times and sometimes I get the CEL light and sometimes I don't.

If you are thinking of buying a 00-02 Mr2 have this done before you buy!

Always refer to the service manual for proper instructions,torque settings etc. This is just to help the dumb ones like me, I always work better with lots of pics. Good luck and happy driving! Jim
 

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good write up.about that tester though what if you tighten it too tight ,how can you get it out of there with the rubber hose connecting it?
i bought one but was afraid too use it for that fact.ended up returning it. :oops:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have never had a problem with it. Just make sure there is a little oil on the threads. You just turn it until the o-ring hits and tighten it slightly with your fingers. The hose on mine is pretty stout and the tester comes out easily.
 

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Originally posted by Blackcreek
I have never had a problem with it. Just make sure there is a little oil on the threads. You just turn it until the o-ring hits and tighten it slightly with your fingers. The hose on mine is pretty stout and the tester comes out easily.
guess i was just paraniod. :oops:
thanks though if i can ever get it running agian this may come in handy :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Originally posted by WTS
Didnt you pull the EFI fuse or otherwise disconnect the fuel injectors?
That would be the step right before remove spark plugs. I was going to pull the pump relay but that was in the relay box located behind the battery on the firewall. I wasn't sure about pulling any other fuse to ensure the fuel injectors would not fire so I just unplugged them at the manifold. Only takes about a minute. I added a sentence about no fuel and no spark to clarify. If there is an easily accessible single fuse or relay that will disable the injectors or fuel pump I will add it to the instructions as an option.
 

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Thanks Blackcreek ,
when I see a great post like this one I print them and put them in my maint. library ..nice and thoughtful work THANKS
 

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Superb post, Blackcreek. My compliments.

This should be a Library item. Barking?
 

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This post is way better than any car manual for people like myself who have never done a compression check. I was actually thinking of doing a compression check recently.

I have a benisug for the next instructional post. Valve clearance check and adjustment. I tried swappind shims on a 600cc yamaha motorcycle... is it any different than our 1ZZ or 2zz? I did have to buy a tool to hold the buckets down but nothing else I think. I would be timid to try on my cars engine.

anyhow.. that was a great post. thank you Blackcreek.
 

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Good write-up on testing...

Only one thought, I use to test as you did and then did a re-test on the low pressure cyls with a couple of squirts of motor oil.
Just to fiq if low was due to rings or valves.
This still done or is my age showing?


Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep. Oil will usually make bad rings increase pressure. Valves usually won't respond as well. Just a general rule of thumb, not gospel.
 
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