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Thanks helowrench. This is at least a little encouraging.
We spent quite some time diagnosing it, but once the oil pan came off it was evident. We isntalled an aftermarket (NAPA) std/std bearing set, and took down the information (rod #s) for a future redo wiuth the Toyota #1/#2/#3 bearing shells for all rods. All the parts are here and ready, kinda waiting for good weather to do the job. IIRC his car had 135K or so when the noise started. He actually drove it 125 miles/day for 3-4 weeks with it making that noise. I was really expecting to find damage, but pleasantly surprised to have it go so well.
Cost wasn't too bad. oil pan gasket, bearing set, and rod bolts, and a couple of cans of carb cleaner to get all of the glitter out of the oil pan.
Rob
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Remember the Rod Bolt Torques are a Two Stage Process.. Others here have Torqued to the ~20 Ft Lbs but not taken it the remaining 90 Deg.. It did not end well..

I'm going from memory here, so make sure you check the Book Specks..

Cap
 

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Remember the Rod Bolt Torques are a Two Stage Process.. Others here have Torqued to the ~20 Ft Lbs but not taken it the remaining 90 Deg.. It did not end well..

I'm going from memory here, so make sure you check the Book Specks..

Cap
Good reminder. also, If I remember correctly the rod bolt is a 12 point.
 

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A machinest friend of mine has suggested that I take an oil sample in for analysis before doing anything much more. Bearing metal in the oil would pretty much confirm bearing problems, I guess. That kind of makes sense, so I think I'll try that. And thanks for the heads-up on the rod bolt torque, Cap.
 

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A machinest friend of mine has suggested that I take an oil sample in for analysis before doing anything much more. Bearing metal in the oil would pretty much confirm bearing problems, I guess. That kind of makes sense, so I think I'll try that. And thanks for the heads-up on the rod bolt torque, Cap.
We did this by sliding under the car, and replacing the oil filter, cut the old one open, and it was full of gold.
very apparent that it was a bearing.
 

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Well that sounds even better than taking an oil sample from the crankcase, since the oil filter would (presumably) catch bearing metal particles, and if there were a lot of them I'd be able to see them right away. Thanks for the suggestion!.
 

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My '03 has 83K and I suspect the sound it is making is a rod bearing. I don't really know how to compare but it sounds loose and the description in paragraph 2 seem to describe it.
  • It clicks like a sewing machine (sharp clicks not clatter) with engine RPMs accelerating.
  • At cruise it seems to click too.
  • It does this cold or hot.
  • It does not click at idle.
  • Under hard acceleration it seems to buzz/vibrate above 4.5K with the clicking.
  • Under no load revving the throttle the clicking seems to lessen, but I'm not sure it really clicks at all.
Do you think I'm right about rod knock?

When I had rod and main problems on a Hyundai we had, it definitely had the the knock clatter. My Spyder is not doing that.
When valves got loose valves on past Porsches I had it sounded similar, but the clicks of the air cooled cars remained at idle.

I've had the Spyder since January this year 2020. I've gutted the pre cats and replaced the main cat down pipe with a Magnaflow and new O2 sensor. I replaced the injector seals, air filter and cleaned the MAF.

The preemptive strike process in car looks like the way to go to try to keep this engine going. I've rebuilt engines before and have used Plastigauge.

I wish there was someone in the Houston area that had a 1ZZ that I could compare my car to. If there is anyone out there and could meet up that would be cool.
 

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The vast majority call this a pinging or shaking sound. This clamor is brought about by an air/fuel blend in the motor chamber being lighted rashly by the warmth of pressure as the cylinder is climbing on the pressure stroke. ... Furthermore, that is additionally why you hear the pinging and shaking clamors
 
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