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After having my runaway car hit a truck at my friend's shop and many scary times when my car moved when it shouldn't, I finally decided to changed the ebrake cables. :lol: Here is a quick guide with pics.

Its a relatively simple procedure but main problem lies in doing it correctly requires ATLEAST lowering you gas tank. Most will choose to go the other route which leaves a part of the old cable and not having the new cable be bolted in in one location on each side. I have a shop with lifts/power tools at my disposal so I took the correct route. I have also removed my gas tank before for my rollbar installation.

Ebrake cables were about $53 each at 1sttoyotaparts.com

I removed seats and center console for ease of moving around my cabin (i have racing buckets that do not recline). Also most of my rear plastics are gone. You can use the Rollbar installation instructions for lowering the fuel tank. Its really not that hard but AC lines are in the way.


Release the cables from their holds under the center console. 10mm bolt iirc.


Release the caliper side of the cable. Pull out pin, and clip holding cable.


Next in line of attachment points to the center console is this bolt holding the circular thing to the frame bracket.


Second is this tougher to get bolt but still reachable without dropping the tank. This is the right side.


Left side and the uncovered third and final bolt and grommet.



Pull lines from under the car and voila, new and old lines side by side. There are L, R markings on one bracket marking side. Mines were completely frozen. New ones moved smoothly.


Installation is the reverse. I realized you don't have to drop the tank after i saw where the third bolts were. With a long extension they can be easily reached. However reinstalling those bolts thru those STUPID FKing clips on the cables was a pain. Clips are springy making holding the line orientation, the clips themselves while lining up the other line clip (black line in pic probably brake lines) and hole all at the same time frustrating. Reinstalling grommets was done thru the holes where the fuel pump was reaching back to where the grommet meets the chassis and pushing thru. Same on driver side using the hole where the vacuum lines from carbon canister use.

Pics of new lines in place.



Adjust your slack at the center consoles ebrake handle and your good to go or should I say stay.
 

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Great How to guide.I will be using your guide in the near future to replace mine.I have a much better understanding of what needs to be done now.Unfortunately I will be doing the job on jack stands.
 

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Nice write up. Btw I noticed the time stamp...insomnia or do you just do your best write ups in the middle of the night? :p
 

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So if I read correctly you don not need to drop the tank to remove the bolts and the old cable, but it is neccessary to have enough room to re-install the third bolt ?
 

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Somedata :lol: Will have to laugh at my mechanic friends about this next time.

Correct. Tank does not need to be completely dropped, all you really need is enough room for an arm to reach to the third bolt hole. Ac lines will flex enough for the amount of drop given that you unbolted some of their attachment points around the tank/firewall.

My sleeping schedule ranges from 3-5am. I think i need help, but its so fun being Batman.
 

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Sorry guys, i erased the pics by accident on my photobucket account.

I could do a quick and simple paint drawing of the locations of the hidden bolts. Its pretty straight forward once you lower the gas tank enought to see the bolts.
 

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Lo,
Just replace the cables on mine, you can take all new pics. :lol:


I really need to save my pennies for a lift....
 

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Yeah he can do mine too Mike if he needs duplicates, you know just encase something happens like the pics get deleted. :lol:
 

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One day I'll get around to doing this too. I've been living without an e-brake for about 2.5 to 3 years now though. Maybe if/when I get a hard dog rollbar, I'll do that at the same time. I would like to see the pics too. :)
 

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Yes, pictures please. It helps me to see things first.
 

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One day I'll get around to doing this too. I've been living without an e-brake for about 2.5 to 3 years now though. Maybe if/when I get a hard dog rollbar, I'll do that at the same time. I would like to see the pics too. :)
Thought I was the only one. In the winter I carry around a plastic chock to warm the car up. lol
Ghetto-fabulous... :(
 

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Well you could turn on the heater to cool the car down. I do it all the time when I race.

As far as a cheap fix to the parking brake cable I might have a suggestion. The reason these freeze up is the rubber gasket breaks down, water gets into the cable and rust it up. I have already replaced mine with new ones and it was a 10 hour job. While I was doing that though I found a way to free up the cables. If you disconnect at the back by the wheel you can tilt the cable down and should get a lot of rusty water running out. After you remove the water spray in some WD-40 or other oil based penetrating fluid. Then I used a wrench to pull on the cable from that end. I figured it does not work anyway what could I break. Low and behold the cable started moving. I would imagine if you keep the wd-40 in the cable it should displace the water and keep it from sticking. I did this several times and got a bunch of gunk out of the cable. Enough that I debated whether I should replace it or not. Anyway just a suggestion.
 

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Lt I have to do that sometimes too but no garage/carport so it gets hot in there. I usually will just leave a window cracked on it and that is enough to keep if from being too overwhelming.


sldnrck, thanks for the tip. I am cheap so anytime I can get by "a little longer" I am all for it. I'll try it out. ;)
 

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My cable didn't freeze up, it just eventually snapped. It's the left side cable only that's snapped. The right side is fine. But when/if I do this fix, I will just replace both of them for good measure. :)
 

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Hello, any chance of getting the pictures back anytime soon?? It would be nice to see to process before I tackle this job.

Thanks
 
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